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03-10-2010, 11:17 PM | #1 | |
AF Newbie
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lindenhurst, New York
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Trouble with oil cooler lines
First off my car is a 1997 Chevy Blazer LS 4 Door 4WD 4.3L Engine code W. I noticed my car leaking oil a few days ago and brought it to a shop. They said my oil cooler lines were leaking and wanted $400 to fix it. I know that this is a weak point on the Blazer and I've had them replaced at another shop about 5 years ago (but that place only charged me $250). Anyway I decided to do it myself and was able to replace the lines from the radiator to the oil filter housing. However the lines from the oil filter housing to the engine seems impossible to do. The bolt on the engine side of the oil line is very difficult to get to, even with a 9" ratchet extension I could not get the proper angle on the bolt.
I was just wondering if anyone has done this repair, and if anyone has any pointers on how to get to that bolt. I think I remember the guy at the shop saying that he had to lift the engine to replace the lines. I hope that isn't the only way. |
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03-11-2010, 02:20 AM | #2 | |
AF Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Yuma, Arizona
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Re: Trouble with oil cooler lines
Search this forum. There is a great write up on using Areoquip fittings & hose. If I remember correctly the cost is around $100. There were pictures & a detailed explanations.
I saw it about a year or two ago. |
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03-11-2010, 09:37 PM | #3 | |
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Re: Trouble with oil cooler lines
When you get it all unbolted, it helps to lift the engine. Just loosen the motor mount through bolt on the driver side, don't have to remove it. Then jack the engine about 1/2" and the fitting comes right past the motor mount. If you take the oil line assembly to an auto parts store that makes hydraulic lines, (usually NAPA), they can set you up with lines and fittings that WILL NOT LEAK! You will re-use the same aluminum fittings and tubes that connect to the oil filter adapter on the engine block and to the oil filter remote mount. In a pinch, you can grind off the aluminum crimp connectors and rubber hose, then replace the hose with hydraulic hose and use air conditioning hose clamps. Either way is better than OEM. I used 1/2" compression to -8 hydraulic hose adapters on all 4 ends. About 2' of hose and no leaks for almost 2 years now.... bone dry. Mark the lines, or better yet, take a picture so you don't cross the lines.
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Tags |
cooler , leak , lines , oil |
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