severe valve knocking......

[newyorker1]

2000 sel, 99000 miles, runs good execpt for the real bad and loud valve knocking, i changed gas 5 times with different stations, i tuned it up the new plugs{ford plugs} wires,pvc, air filter. only when the enging gets warm/hot will the valves start to knock, they will start to knock when acceleration, cruising, not when deaccelerating or idling, like at a light, stop sign. no Check enging light at all during this problem. i am at a loss here, thanks all.

[12Ounce]

Open up the upper intake manifold ... and fix the loose internal baffle. (I think.)

[newyorker1]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

Open up the upper intake manifold ... and fix the loose internal baffle. (I think.)

sounds easy ..... [i think] really?

[12Ounce]

If my guess is correct ... a few daubs of sensor-safe RTV should do the trick.

[newyorker1]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

If my guess is correct ... a few daubs of sensor-safe RTV should do the trick.

will this really fix my problem? is this a know problem? and what the heck am i looking for again? thanks

[12Ounce]

A. Optional step: Remove wipers. Remove two-piece plastic windschield cowling. (I prefer not to work in cramped-up spaces ... some folks will call this step totally unecessary.)

B. Remove the 14 small screws holding the plastic "upper" intake to the plastic intake "spacer". (The "spacer" has the throttle body and the air cleaner inlet.) The "spacer" is not to be removed for this procedure. Remove the "upper".

C. Inspect the "upper" ... you will find it is two-part, having a plastic inner component. These two parts are clipped together. (Later models are glued together.) Sometimes a clip will break, allowing the inner component to vibrate loudly. Place a few daubs of sensor-safe RTV between the two parts to dampen the vibrations.

D. Clean all mating surfaces/gaskets between the "upper" and the "spacer". Lubricate with petroleum jelly. Reassemble ... don't not overtighten small screws. 7 - 8 ft lbs.
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Good luck! I hope this is your problem.
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http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...9255&highlight
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We hope the following is NOT your problem:
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http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...3542&highlight
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[garync1]

Originally Posted by newyorker1

will this really fix my problem? is this a know problem? and what the heck am i looking for again? thanks

The upper intake.. The black clam shell looking thing on top.. Mine use to knock real bad and I could grab the top and it would stop.. All you have to do is replace the top half.. In other words after you disconnect the hoses and remove all the bolts that top part will come off.. The inner part snapped into it and over time breaks causing it to knock into the top.. I replaced mine.. 150.00 2 years ago.. The price is lower now I think..

Also are you sure its not spark knocking.. If it is you may have to take to dealer and get the timing reprogrammed. But if is an engine knock it may be the upper intake.. Which is no be deal.. Just want to remove the engine cowl were your windshield wipers sit.. Not that hard also..

[newyorker1]

Originally Posted by garync1

The upper intake.. The black clam shell looking thing on top.. Mine use to knock real bad and I could grab the top and it would stop.. All you have to do is replace the top half.. In other words after you disconnect the hoses and remove all the bolts that top part will come off.. The inner part snapped into it and over time breaks causing it to knock into the top.. I replaced mine.. 150.00 2 years ago.. The price is lower now I think..

Also are you sure its not spark knocking.. If it is you may have to take to dealer and get the timing reprogrammed. But if is an engine knock it may be the upper intake.. Which is no be deal.. Just want to remove the engine cowl were your windshield wipers sit.. Not that hard also..

great, thanks everybody.

then i should get this :


http://yhst-12260461708320.stores.yahoo.ne...CFQLBsgodQ2C-CQ

[Ed_Strong]

If you're going that route, then I would recommend doing the Isolator Bolt replacement and EGR Ports unclogging aswell since you'll have the whole top intake apart anyway it will save you in the long run if it were to come back to hunt you later in life.

[newyorker1]

Originally Posted by Ed_Strong

If you're going that route, then I would recommend doing the Isolator Bolt replacement and EGR Ports unclogging aswell since you'll have the whole top intake apart anyway it will save you in the long run if it were to come back to hunt you later in life.

thank goodness that work was done before i bought the van.

[pitteach]

Before you do all that... I seem to recall that I had what I thought was severe valve knocking on my 2000. It turned out to be the IMRC shaft had fallen off. I don't recall getting a CEL either. I replaced the bushings and all is well. I would check this first as it is a high failure item before I pulled off the clam.
The IMRC is a small black box on the top of the motor near the water pump. It has two contorted metal shafts on either side that connect to levers on the intake mainfold. You can see if these are working by running the motor and reving past about 2000 rpms- the black box should open push the shafts to open up the levers. These act kind of like the secondaries on an old carb. If they don't open, then I believe you get a lean/rich? condition under open throttle and the motor will knock.
Or it could just be the manifold.

[newyorker1]

Originally Posted by pitteach

Before you do all that... I seem to recall that I had what I thought was severe valve knocking on my 2000. It turned out to be the IMRC shaft had fallen off. I don't recall getting a CEL either. I replaced the bushings and all is well. I would check this first as it is a high failure item before I pulled off the clam.
The IMRC is a small black box on the top of the motor near the water pump. It has two contorted metal shafts on either side that connect to levers on the intake mainfold. You can see if these are working by running the motor and reving past about 2000 rpms- the black box should open push the shafts to open up the levers. These act kind of like the secondaries on an old carb. If they don't open, then I believe you get a lean/rich? condition under open throttle and the motor will knock.
Or it could just be the manifold.

they are in good working order, thanks.

[garync1]

Yes the upper intake you show is what we are speaking of... But please make sure thats the issue.. Also thats a good price for that as well.. I paid 150.00.
I have one of the better pricing dealers around.. I done some checking...