1997 Saturn Won't Start & Coolant Sensor light won't turn off.

[autumnsunn]

I had my driver's side window and door fixed at a body shop a few days ago.....and when I went to pick it up the car refused to start....is it just coincidence???? It's a manual transmission and it will pushstart. My car has always started right up. I have never had a problem before.
Also,
My coolant sensor light won't go off. There's plenty of fluid in it. What could be the problem there?

Thank you in advance for your help.

[saturnspeed_12]

is just coincidence. the coolant temperature sensor sounds bad. it can go out at anytime, guess it wanted to make that shop look bad. but anyways replace it with one from factory with the connector too! if you dont get the connector wired into it too then you could have same issues since the old sensors were plastic and when old would crack and let coolant pass through them. from there the coolant would get to the wires and corrode them causing the problem too. its very cheap and easy to do. if you dont have a saturn dealer near by then check out saturnparts.com. im not sure if they have the connector for it so you probably will have to go to the dealer.

[peppermrj]

Originally Posted by autumnsunn

I had my driver's side window and door fixed at a body shop a few days ago.....and when I went to pick it up the car refused to start....is it just coincidence???? It's a manual transmission and it will pushstart. My car has always started right up. I have never had a problem before.
Also,
My coolant sensor light won't go off. There's plenty of fluid in it. What could be the problem there?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Body shops are notorious for running down batteries. Hopefully that is all there is to it. I should ask what you mean by "won't start"? Will it crank?

The coolant light realy doesn't have anything to do with the coolant temp sensor. The ects can cause a no start or hard start problem. Is it blinking?

[autumnsunn]

Originally Posted by peppermrj

Body shops are notorious for running down batteries. Hopefully that is all there is to it. I should ask what you mean by "won't start"? Will it crank?

The coolant light realy doesn't have anything to do with the coolant temp sensor. The ects can cause a no start or hard start problem. Is it blinking?

I mean it won't start at all. It won't even crank. It will push start if you pop the clutch though.
Yes. My coolant sensor light is blinking, but it's been that way for about a month now. I have never had trouble starting it before. The car runs like it's brand new. Any thoughts?

[peppermrj]

What model and how many miles?
Do the lights dim when you try to start it?
How old is the battery?
I would drive down to the local autozone store and get them to check the battery and the charging system. They will do this free of charge. They will also charge the battery free of charge if need be. You might have to remove it. Not sure they might do that too.

Lets get it starting again and then we can work on that coolant light. Good luck and let us know wassup.

[autumnsunn]

Originally Posted by peppermrj

What model and how many miles?
Do the lights dim when you try to start it?
How old is the battery?
I would drive down to the local autozone store and get them to check the battery and the charging system. They will do this free of charge. They will also charge the battery free of charge if need be. You might have to remove it. Not sure they might do that too.

Lets get it starting again and then we can work on that coolant light. Good luck and let us know wassup.

It's a 1997 2 door Coupe with about 95,000 miles. The battery is only about a month old. The lights don't dim.....it just won't even try to start. It doesn't even make a clicking sound when you turn the key. It's just completely silent. Do you think it may be the starter? It's never even hesitated to start before. That's what's so odd to me.

[peppermrj]

Originally Posted by autumnsunn

It's a 1997 2 door Coupe with about 95,000 miles. The battery is only about a month old. The lights don't dim.....it just won't even try to start. It doesn't even make a clicking sound when you turn the key. It's just completely silent. Do you think it may be the starter? It's never even hesitated to start before. That's what's so odd to me.

Not that it matters but is it a single overhead cam engine (SOHC) or double overhead cam engine (DOHC)? Just curious.

I don't think it is the starter. I believe it is an electrical issue. Lets start with a look around.

Check the ignition switch for proper operation. When the switch is turned ON, the instrument cluster lights should illuminate and accessories such as the radio may be operated. I know, done that, but I'm anal and about lists.
Check that the battery connections are tight.
Check the serpentine (fan) belt has proper tension.

Check the fuses. There are two fuse blocks.
One is inside the cabin. Remove the lower right trim panel from the instrument panel center column. Separate the Velcro fastener at the bottom of the trim panel and carefully unsnap the top corners of the panel from the fasteners. Remove the applicable fuse or relay from the IPJB, based on the identification label located on the back of the trim panel. A plastic puller is also located on the trim panel to ease fuse removal.
The other is under the hood. Under Hood Junction Block (UHJB)
The ignition fuses (IGN3) must be intact. Check your owners manual if you need help with it's location. Their should be a big one (30 amp)under the hood and a small one (7.5 amp) in the cabin under the dash.

If all that proves to be ok then the next likely culprit is the Clutch Start Safety Switch.

You can use a simple battery powered test light also. The light should not light while testing the switch untill the clutch pedal is depressed. If you jumper the clutch safety switch connection to see if the car starts remeber it will now start in gear. Use caution unless you want to send in a tape to america's funniest home videos. In that case have the camcorder rolling.

Vehicles equipped with a manual transaxle, a clutch safety switch is mounted on the clutch pedal bracket to prevent starting the vehicle unless the pedal is depressed. If the switch is suspected, check it as follows:

Detach the electrical connector from the switch and position a digital volt-ohmmeter to test resistance through the switch.

The circuit should be open (infinite resistance) when the clutch pedal is in the clutch engaged or upper position.

Fully depress the clutch pedal and check resistance; if the switch is good, resistance should be below 2 ohms.

Lots of homework but hopefully it will help. Let us know how you make out.

[saturnspeed_12]

like i said you need to look into buying a new coolant temperature sensor and connector. its most likely your problem due to the coolant light being on and can cause it not to start.