Inline fuse location / altenator to positive batt lead

[Montanarick]

1999 Windstar, 3.8L

Is there an inline fuse between the two above? Could it be the reason I am getting an intermittant "battery" indication on the dash? I have tested the altenator output and it seems ok. Any suggestions?
Thank you, Richard

[12Ounce]

The lead between the alternator and the battery positive terminal usually includes a "fusible link". It seems to be nothing more a section of the conductor being made of several smaller, each insulated, conductors in parallel. I don't know what this is far, except for some sort of fire control. ???

If you are getting a consistent reading of 13.5 volts, or better, at the alternator output terminal, or the battery terminal: I would suggest the following ...

Place the voltmeter along the conductor assembly we are discussing ... from alternator to battery. You should read almost no voltage, even when the ac is running and all fans are running ... full alternator output in other words. If you read even 1/2 volt or so, you have an issue of conductivity, it could be the cable ... but far more likely to be the cable end connections. Make sure the alternator output post screw and washers are scrubbed bright clean. Use abrasive paper or a small metal file to brighten all contact surfaces. Do similar cleaning at battery posts. Then apply an anti-oxidant paste as you reassemble.

A similar action of inspection and repair should be done on the ground cable ... IE, from battery negative cable to engine block at the starter motor area.

It can be difficult to get this really correct, especially on an older car.

[tomj76]

Montanarick:

Your problem reminds me of something that occurred on my van when it was new (25 yrs ago!). After about 1 yr of use the battery light would flash intermittently. Since the vehicle was under warranty I asked the dealer to check it out and replace the alternator. As you might expect, the dealer "never saw the light come on" and therefor did not replace the alternator.

My analysis was that the light flash seemed to be a false error, not a true indication of failure of the charging system.

Over the years the condition continued occasionally and after the warranty expired it got even worse, eventually to the light being on most of the time. Unfortunately this later left me broken down on the highway when the alternator failed since I couldn't tell the battery was discharging until the van came to a sudden halt.

After replacing the alternator, I never saw the erroneous battery light again, so the root cause must have been in the alternator itself, probably the regulator module.

[Montanarick]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

The lead between the alternator and the battery positive terminal usually includes a "fusible link". It seems to be nothing more a section of the conductor being made of several smaller, each insulated, conductors in parallel. I don't know what this is far, except for some sort of fire control. ???

If you are getting a consistent reading of 13.5 volts, or better, at the alternator output terminal, or the battery terminal: I would suggest the following ...

Place the voltmeter along the conductor assembly we are discussing ... from alternator to battery. You should read almost no voltage, even when the ac is running and all fans are running ... full alternator output in other words. If you read even 1/2 volt or so, you have an issue of conductivity, it could be the cable ... but far more likely to be the cable end connections. Make sure the alternator output post screw and washers are scrubbed bright clean. Use abrasive paper or a small metal file to brighten all contact surfaces. Do similar cleaning at battery posts. Then apply an anti-oxidant paste as you reassemble.

A similar action of inspection and repair should be done on the ground cable ... IE, from battery negative cable to engine block at the starter motor area.

It can be difficult to get this really correct, especially on an older car.

Dear 120unce
First let me apologize for the lengthy delay in responding to you as we have suffered some medical issues. Now, following your posting advisement this is what I found:

Engine running, AC/fans/lights on
VOM reading: Alternator + output terminal to battery + terminal & (2) white fusible links = 14.47vdc

Engine running, AC/fans/lights on
VOM reading: Alternator + output terminal to battery + terminal = .160vdc

I am still getting intermittent “battery” light indication on dash and I am still confounded…what do you think I am missing? Is there another fusible link somewhere in the wire harness? Note that I do not profess to be a backyard auto mechanic and I am not certain that I fully understood your directions (?)

Any experience and sage advice will be appreciated, thank you

[12Ounce]

I'm not sure I have a clear image of the first reading that you listed. But the second listing, the one that shows under .2 volt from alternator output to battery terminal, I think I understand and believe that that reading is OK. Now, with the same engine loading conditions, get a reading from battery-negative post to engine block negative cable hook-up location (usually at starter motor). If it also reads as low, your cables are good.

[azharj]

What I get from your post, voltage is good from alternator to fusible link, and to battery post. with light on; and at other time voltage is only 0.164. in both case dashboard charging light is on. I have no knowledge of car electronics, but have the same darling 2000 windstar. I read somewhere about ripple current. So I guess: 1. intermittent charging by alternator. 2. defective diode with increased AC current also or ripple current which is not allowing to charge the battery. Try swapping the alternator. Or set volt meter to AC and check voltage

[Montanarick]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

I'm not sure I have a clear image of the first reading that you listed. But the second listing, the one that shows under .2 volt from alternator output to battery terminal, I think I understand and believe that that reading is OK. Now, with the same engine loading conditions, get a reading from battery-negative post to engine block negative cable hook-up location (usually at starter motor). If it also reads as low, your cables are good.

Hello!
Sorry for the stale reply but I don't move as quickly anymore...Good news! After much research online, I decided to clean and reconnect all battery ground locations on vehicle. Now my battery indicator light is gone and even the check engine light has vanished.
I am thrilled, but still have my fingers crossed that this is still just a temporary fix. Car has now been driven over 50 miles with no indications. Thank you for your advice and assist. Richard

[Mustang_Driver]

another stale reply....but my brother had this same thing happen on a 1996 aerostar the battery light would flicker then stay on had it diagnosed and it lead to a battery not able to effectively hold a full charge anymore changed the battery cleaned all connections and never had another issue

[Montanarick]

Mustang_Driver,
That's good news to share! My batt light PITA has also vanished since the simple ground wire terminals were thoroughly cleaned. Thank you, Richard

[wiswind]

Those ground (-) connections are as important as the positive (+) connections.
MANY people overlook the ground (-) connection and since it is down on the starter, it is prone to corrosion.

It is MOST likely that you have solved your problem with the cleaning and firmly seating these +/- connections.

[Montanarick]

Wiswind: Thank you for your posting and advice. Yes, since cleaning the negative grounds the issue has been resolved. Yeah!