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Old 01-02-2014, 03:13 PM   #1
daviejj
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1997 Chev. S10

I recently installed a clutch and pressure plate on my 1997 Chev. S10. Now I can't get the clutch to release enough to get it in gear. Sometime the clutch will release about one half inch from the bottom, but I cannot get the 5 speed shifter to go in first gear. Can anyone help?

Many thanks,
Ron
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:24 PM   #2
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

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Originally Posted by daviejj View Post
I recently installed a clutch and pressure plate on my 1997 Chev. S10. Now I can't get the clutch to release enough to get it in gear. Sometime the clutch will release about one half inch from the bottom, but I cannot get the 5 speed shifter to go in first gear. Can anyone help?

Many thanks,
Ron
Does this unit have a hydraulic clutch? The slave cylinder may be bad otherwise the clutch may need adjusted.
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Old 01-02-2014, 07:15 PM   #3
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

How do I tell what type of clutch this is and also the slave cylinder?
Thanks for your reply.


Ron
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Old 01-03-2014, 06:44 AM   #4
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

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Originally Posted by daviejj View Post
How do I tell what type of clutch this is and also the slave cylinder?
Thanks for your reply.


Ron
http://www.rockauto.com/
Type in your year model and engine size. Search slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. Look at the parts as you pulled the transmission look at the parts. You will be able to determine if you saw the parts. They looked very close to Ford Ranger's unit.
If your going to do it yourself purchase the prebled unit as they are very diffuclt to bleed.
You could go to a parts store and look at a unit if unsure from the pictures.
From the picture I would say you will have to drop or slide back the transmission to install the unit.
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:16 AM   #5
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

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Originally Posted by daviejj View Post
How do I tell what type of clutch this is and also the slave cylinder?
Thanks for your reply.


Ron
Does it have a full clutch pedal?
Or how far down before you feel it get solid?
Usually clutch release problems are slay cylinder has air in it and needs bleeding.
Have you tried bleeding it?
Was the slay cylinder replaced with clutch plate?
What was the problem with old clutch?
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:30 AM   #6
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

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Originally Posted by MT-2500 View Post
Does it have a full clutch pedal?
Or how far down before you feel it get solid?
Usually clutch release problems are slay cylinder has air in it and needs bleeding.
Have you tried bleeding it?
Was the slay cylinder replaced with clutch plate?
What was the problem with old clutch?
I was hoping he would reply back that he drained it when he replaced the clutch. At least he could refill with brake fluid and bleed it and be good to go.
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:15 AM   #7
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

[quote=rhandwor;7098998]I was hoping he would reply back that he drained it when he replaced the clutch. At least he could refill with brake fluid and bleed it and be good to go.[/

How is the best way to bleed the cylinder. Someone advised that it was difficult to bleed.

Thanks for your reply.
Ron
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:18 AM   #8
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

I installed another engine and wanted to replace the clutch and pressure plate as it had lot's of miles on it.
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:44 AM   #9
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

[quote=daviejj;7099018]
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhandwor View Post
I was hoping he would reply back that he drained it when he replaced the clutch. At least he could refill with brake fluid and bleed it and be good to go.[/

How is the best way to bleed the cylinder. Someone advised that it was difficult to bleed.

Thanks for your reply.
Ron
Put the truck on 4 jack stands fill the master with brake fluid. Have someone push on the clutch pumping trying to get some resistance At this point open the bleed screw allowing fluid to come out. Close the bleed screw and pump again until you get resistance again open the bleed screw. Its probably going to take 1/2 hour or more. Stop when you have proper petal feel.
I had a friend who operated a body shop and he filled up the master cylinder on a fleet of S-10 he had a contract with a pest control company. He filled the master cylinder and left the bleed screw open. About 4 hrs. later it would start dripping and at this point he closed this screw and refilled the master cylinder. He said it took him 4hrs. I never tried it but I noticed flat pans under a truck on jack stands and one started dripping one of his men closed the screw and a short while later another man
closed another one. I never tried this but if by your self you can try this. You only have one bleed screw.
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Old 01-03-2014, 11:38 AM   #10
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

Many thanks for the info. I shall try this...Have a great day.

Ron
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:49 PM   #11
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

No tryin to be a smartass but I hope that disc isnt in backwards.
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:53 PM   #12
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

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No tryin to be a smartass but I hope that disc isnt in backwards.
My shade mechanic insist it is in correct, however I cannot get a full clutch, only one half inch from the bottom. Seems as though the slave cylinder will not bleed. How long should you try to bleed?

Ron
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Old 01-06-2014, 05:16 PM   #13
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

Quote:
Originally Posted by daviejj View Post
My shade mechanic insist it is in correct, however I cannot get a full clutch, only one half inch from the bottom. Seems as though the slave cylinder will not bleed. How long should you try to bleed?

Ron
Are you getting fluid out when you pump. http//www.ebay.com/
Search item 150907892536
I don't think your pumping fast enough. I work alone and use a vacuum bleeder any more. I used to use a pump oil can only used for brake fluid hold the diameter of the hose over the hole and pump and had someone shut off the bleed screw when brake fluid came out. I'm retired at this time and mostly do my own work.
Try 1/2 to 1 hr depending on how fast you pump. You can try a gravity bleed lay a clean rag over the master cylinder after its filled. Allow up to 4 hrs. put a clean pan under an open bleeder. The slave maybe bad what was the problem before changing the clutch.
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Old 01-06-2014, 05:57 PM   #14
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

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Originally Posted by rhandwor View Post
Are you getting fluid out when you pump. http//www.ebay.com/
Search item 150907892536
I don't think your pumping fast enough. I work alone and use a vacuum bleeder any more. I used to use a pump oil can only used for brake fluid hold the diameter of the hose over the hole and pump and had someone shut off the bleed screw when brake fluid came out. I'm retired at this time and mostly do my own work.
Try 1/2 to 1 hr depending on how fast you pump. You can try a gravity bleed lay a clean rag over the master cylinder after its filled. Allow up to 4 hrs. put a clean pan under an open bleeder. The slave maybe bad what was the problem before changing the clutch.
Should I leave the rubber cap off the place that you put brake fluid in as I pump the clutch, or does that matter? I do have fluid coming out of the bleeder valve as you pump.
Reason for new clutch. I replaced the engine and decided to replace the clutch and p. plate, no slave cylinder. After replacing the engine, I had no oil pressure. Had to pull engine and put in new oil pump. Clutch was working ok before that. I tried pumping fast a few days ago, but only for about 3 minutes. Could the slave cylinder just go bad?
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Old 01-06-2014, 06:55 PM   #15
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10

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Originally Posted by daviejj View Post
Should I leave the rubber cap off the place that you put brake fluid in as I pump the clutch, or does that matter? I do have fluid coming out of the bleeder valve as you pump.
Reason for new clutch. I replaced the engine and decided to replace the clutch and p. plate, no slave cylinder. After replacing the engine, I had no oil pressure. Had to pull engine and put in new oil pump. Clutch was working ok before that. I tried pumping fast a few days ago, but only for about 3 minutes. Could the slave cylinder just go bad?
It could but I think you need to keep bleeding pump until you get some pedal. Open bleeder close and try again it takes two people.
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