Passlock problem solved?

[scots72442]

Guys my daughter has a 2003 Grand Am SE1 2.4 automatic (I know, sorry about her luck?) Well after going through literally thousands of forum posts all over the internet, I found alot of value in this forum. Well she started college this year about 2 hours away and her car has been acting up with the passlock plague for a couple of months. So this weekend I went there armed with the resistor and soldering iron to bypass this anti-theft deal because the 10 minute trick wasn't working anymore. Well I had great luck in successfully bypassing the issue at hand and the security light only comes on for the initial bulb check and stays off. Now for the issue... There is no longer any fuel present or any pressure at the fuel log in the engine bay. 1) Is there a way to verify the fuel pump is bad without dropping the tank or is there maybe something I missed while bypassing the passlock and the BCM or PCM has the fuel pump locked out? I believe that I hear the pump hum for about 2 seconds when I initially turn the key to the on position, but no pressure at the fuel log. When the passlock problems started, we had pressure at the fuel log and by a quick google search I found how to do the 10 minute thing with the key on. 2) If in fact we are experiencing both problems (passlock and bad fuel pump) then is it possible to remove fuel pump without dropping the fuel tank? I.e maybe a panel to remove to access the fuel pump? Any suggestions or solutions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you ahead of time,
Scot

[scots72442]

Please can someone help me?
Thank you
Scot

[3100]

how exactly did you bypass the pass lock?

if you had pressure prior to your pass lock bypass and now you don't chances are that you didn't do something right in the pass lock area. Passlock disables injectors not pump. Also if you hear pump running for 2 sec that is normal (it is called fuel pump priming)

[thephantom1492]

The fuel pump is connected directly to a relay.

Look under the hood for the fusebox.

You have a relay there for the fuel pump.

12V from "hot in run and start" goes to fuse 48 (F/P inj, 15A)
which go to the relay, the relay then go straight to the fuel pump.

You could check if you can get a resistance reading between ground and the relay pin (you'll have to figure out which one however)

You could manually bylass the relay (beware of not shorting the pins for the coil, you could damage the PCM)

You could test the relay (or swap it with another one, if another of the same model is present and is not critical)

and so on...

[scots72442]

I removed the neg batt cable then the glove box and kick panel under the BCM. Then I located the middle harness on the BCM and cut the yellow wire on A6 and soldered a 2.2K ohm resistor between the skinned place on B6 black wire and to the yellow going to the BCM harness and protected the connections with shrink tubing and electrical tape. Then I taped off the remaining yellow wire going to the ignition and replaced the neg. batt cable. The car didn't start right away but I wasn't expecting it would because the new value had to be taught to the BCM. So I did the 10 min thing with the key in the on position and the security light went out and now only comes on when you first turn on the key for a bulb check. But now there is no fuel pressure at the fuel log schrader port. I checked fuses and relays but I could swear I hear the pump hum for like two seconds when you first turn the key on and every time after that but still no gas or pressure at the schrader. Any insight?
Thanks so much,
Scot

[scots72442]

Can anyone shed some light on what I am experiencing?

[thephantom1492]

The pump should turn on for 2 seconds, then turn off until you try to crank.

If you mesured the pressure after the 2 seconds, and before or after your attempt to start then it might be normal.

A6 and B6 are the right wires.

The fuel pump is controlled by the PCM, which power it's pin 47 (dark green/white), which turn on the relay, which in turn turn on the fuel pump (by giving 12V to it, grey wire)

I would personally try to:
- verify the fuses
- swap the relay if possible
- see if you do get a 12V from the PCM at the relay while trying to crank
- mesure the resistance for the fuel pump at the relay connection (between the pin and ground, should be low)

If all tests appear good, I'ld bypass the relay, so you can see if you can get the fuel pump to work. Be carefull with this one, a wrong move could kill the PCM. it's not hard, I did it in the past to recover the gas before my brother's car went to the scapyard... you would be surprised to see how fast it flow!

[scots72442]

I checked fuses and noticed the micro relay for the fuel pump in the fuse box under the hood. Also noticed that there are at least three or four just like it controlling various things. Would it be possible to just substitute it or swap it with another one just to eliminate this as a problem? I was wondering if maybe there was a "secret" panel above the fuel pump to access the the wiring without removal of the fuel tank? I've heard of a few cars that have it but I am unsure if this model does or not.
Thanks so much,
Scot

[thephantom1492]

sure you can swap relay, just check what that relay do and see if it's a crucial relay for your tests.

As for the fuel pump access panel, I don't think there is one, however you might have access to the wiring from under the car, but maybe not...

[andretti]

The '03 didn't come with the 2.4L, either a 2.2L or 3.4L. But no problem as both Passlock systems are the same. If the BCM sees invalid key code data it sends an invalid password to the PCM which then disables the fuel injectors. The fuel pump circuit is not involved in theft deterrent. You can test the injector for pulse with a noid light or test light. With a scan tool you can command the fuel pump relay on/off to check circuit operation. A temporary wire by-pass at the relay would verify the pump operation. Keeping this simple, everything was o.k. before you modded the Passlock. Might be best to undo your mod and go back to square one.

[thephantom1492]

I do not think that undoing the mod would change anything...

If the security light don't come up then it mean it should be fine...

The fuel pump is not part of the theif deterant stuff, only the injectors are shutdown...

[scots72442]

That is what I was thinking because when it initially started acting up, I checked out the pressure and verified that it was in fact "getting" gas at the fuel log and realized that it had the injectors shut down due to the anti-theft. But over the course of this summer it kept getting worse and locking out the injectors more often until she called and said that the "10 min thingy" is not working any more. I really think the fuel pump went out after all of that trying to start over and over. But what gets me is that I think I hear the pump come on for a couple of seconds. but no pressure or fuel what so ever at the fuel log. Even with a clogged fuel filter some gas would have to be present there. The car ran fine when it did run and she drove it to work two weeks ago is when it wouldn't reset with the 10 minute key on deal.

[3100]

pinch rubber fuel return line with pliers, see if you get pressure now when the fuel pump comes on for 2 sec. Also what are you using to check for fuel pressure, your finger or the professional fuel pressure tester with the correct adapter?

[scots72442]

I am checking for pressure at the schrader port on the fuel log by pushing the schrader core in to see if there is gas present and under pressure. I am roughly two hours away from the car, but plan to go this weekend to fix it or if I have to remove gas tank to change fuel pump I have no choice but to drag it home. What would pinching the return line with pliers tell me if there is pressure then?
Thank you so much
Scot

[3100]

Originally Posted by scots72442

I am checking for pressure at the schrader port on the fuel log by pushing the schrader core in to see if there is gas present and under pressure. I am roughly two hours away from the car, but plan to go this weekend to fix it or if I have to remove gas tank to change fuel pump I have no choice but to drag it home. What would pinching the return line with pliers tell me if there is pressure then?
Thank you so much
Scot

Bad fuel pressure regulator (not holding pressure)