92Olds88 A/C

[WMS]

Greetings and I need help. '92 Olds88 3.8 w/ auto. AC quit (blowing hot air). Dealer said compressor leaking. Replaced compressor and converted to 134a. When adding 134a cluch on compressor never engaged. Just like the original problem. Checked +12 on cluch plug...nothing. Should have done that before replacing the compressor. Traced wire back thru harness to relay. All fuses good, all relays ok, continuity on wires ok. Just don't get 12 volts to cluch. When I add 12v cluch engages and I get cold air. Jumpered connector for high and low pressure but cluch still not engaged. What am I not seeing. Got to be a sensor, switch something. What tells the cluch to engage and release. Help!!!

[CNim]

Have you had any luck fixing this problem? I have what appears to be an identical problem. 1992 Olds 88 w/ auto temp controller. Fan speed control started acting up (wouldn't come on, then couldn't control), next temperature display on in-dash A/C & heater control module started flashing, then A/C quit.

Had system pressure tested and everything is good. Applying voltage to compressor engages clutch & a/c works fine. Shop diagnosed and thought it was likely a faulty auto temp controller. I'm told it's located on the firewall on the RH side of the passenger compartment but I haven't had time to look yet. These units are pricey, so I didn't just want to throw money at it without checking things further. I feel it could also be the heater & a/c control module (even more expensive).

Anyone have access to a wiring diagram for the A/C system they are willing to share? I've got a couple of long trips coming up and need to fix this ASAP or i'm going to melt. I'm at the point of hardwiring a switch to engage & disengage the compressor just to get by until I find the problem. I don't like this solution, but I'm getting desperate.

Any help would be appreciated!

[CNim]

FIXED!!

I found the solution to my A/C problem on my '92 Olds 88 and you're not going to believe how I fixed it!

The symptom I was having was that the compressor wasn't getting a 12V signal. All the relays, swithches, etc. checked out so I had narrowed it down to either the A/C control module (in-dash), Heater & A/C Programmer, or the PCM - all expensive parts to replace.

I did a little digging on the 'net and came across the following tech tip (http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/june99/techtips.htm). It's a good explanation of the GM electronic A/C systems like the one used on the '92 Olds 88. It also explains that if the compressor short-cycles for some reason, the system will fault and lock out the compressor until the problem is fixed and the faults are cleared.

To clear the faults & reset the PCM and Programmer you DISCONNECT THE -VE BATTERY CABLE AND TURN ON THE LIGHTS FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS. I did this and my A/C now works! Much cheaper than the $600 in parts & labour I was quoted to change out the programmer - and this was the solution after $200 of diagnosis. I'll be stopping by the shop tomorrow to pass this info on to my mechanic. Generally he does good work but he sure missed the mark on this one.

I hope this info is helpful to someone else.

[87accordlxi]

Very interesting. I will probably be getting a 92 Eighty Eight from my parents' neighbor, and the A/C has not been working. I'm not sure what work has been done to it, but he says he's already put over $500 into the A/C system and doesn't want to mess with it anymore. This may be a quick and easy fix.

[87accordlxi]

Well, just an update to my situation. I got the car this weekend, and the compressor was getting no power at all. I wasn't even trying to click on. I tried the resetting PCM trick....and it worked!

[92-LS]

If your Delta has the automatic air conditioning and the temperture display flashes for the first 2 mins of operation it has trouble codes stored.

[sport532]

i just bought a 92 delta 88. The air did not work. I opened the hood and I did see the compressor start. but on hot air comming out. I added some freion and the compressior has never kicked on again. Yesterday I turned on the air and drove about a 1/2 hour nothing came on. But now the heater or the fan does not come on. I also noticed that the red markings on the fan speed are gone(the fan indicator does make a clicking sound going up or down but the fan does not kick on.
Do i have a bad relay or is this a fuse i can not find.
I did unhook the battery but it did nothing.
Any suggestions

[CNim]

If you're fan isn't coming on, it could be a faulty blower motor. This just happened to me last month.

The blower motor is located in the center of the firewall, right behind the engine. Check if you have power at the blower motor connection with the key turned forward and the fan turned on (DON'T DO THIS WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING - you have to lean over the belts). It's easiest to disconnect the connector to check. If you have power, it's likely a faulty blower motor. Reconnect the wiring & try tapping on the motor housing - sometimes this will start the motor if it's just on the verge of going (it will get you by in those emergency situations until you change the motor).

If you don't have power, it could be a faulty controller. Check the link I posted earlier in this thread. You may find more clues to troubleshooting your problem there.

If you need to change the motor, pick one up at your local autoparts store & get prepared for a job requiring a little patience & determination. Unplug the electrical connector and disconnect the motor end of the hose leading from the firewall to the motor. Unscrew the motor from the firewall. Now comes the part requiring determination. On some models (like mine) you cannot get the motor out of the engine compartment without removing the cross-member tying the strut towers together. You should also remove the fuse & relay access cover at the back of the engine compartment on the firewall. Even after removing these, it takes twisting and maneuvering to get the motor out. And installing the new one takes even more patience as you don't want to force it the wrong way & damage it. BUT, believe me, it is possible.

NOTE: It is easier to install the hose to the motor BEFORE you maneuver it into position. Disconnect the hose from the firewall & install in the motor while you have it out of the engine compartment. Trust me - I tried to do it the other way and it was an exercise in frustration.

-C

[clocksmith]

CNim -- Hope you read this: your 8-06-2004 01:14AM post (10+yrs ago!!) was the solution to my puzzling A/C problem also, and I want to say "THANK YOU" for sharing that info. The existence of this forum and people like yourself define "community" with the best possible meaning. Again, THANK YOU for sharing your solution.

[Tech II]

That's why you should always scan for codes....not all codes turn on the CE light........usually, in this case, a code 68 is set for OBD I vehicles.......a low freon situation, will cause the compressor to short cycle....when this happens, the ECM will disable the compressor and set this code......even thought the low pressure situation is fixed, the code has to be cleared for the compressor to run again....