97 2.2 engine running rough after timing chain change

[comet240]

ok here pics i took

the first two show the Cam at 6 o clock and the Crank at 1 o clockish

2nd set show Cam at 11 o clock ish and the Crank at 12 o clock


any help

[Tech II]

I used 12 and 6 o'clock as a general alignment....like you said, they should line up with the notches on the tensioner backing plate...in other words, if you were to hold a straight edge between the center of the cam bolt and the crank bolt, the marks would be directly in line.....12 and 6 , in relation to the line....

When you recheck the timing, you rotate the crank sprocket, TWICE, and the marks should be back in time, not 180 out....

Should never try to rotate a cam by itself, or when it is out of time, because then a valve could hit a piston......and yes, rotating the chain, with the plugs out, will not be smooth because of the pressure from the valve springs on the rockers to the push rods to the lifters to the cam......

If this is an interference engine, then it's possible a valve is bent OR a push rod is bent......if you have low compression, it's one or the other.....they are the weak links, rather than a piston getting a hole(hole in pistons are usually due to heat/pre-ignition)......if you are lucky, it's the push rod....

[comet240]

ok so then ill put it back together bottom

so how do you know if engine is interference or non-interference whats the difference

so the push rod are they the little sticks? or are they the actual valves

what are the steps to check?


so now ill just slap the lower part back together


and can i change the push rods without having to take head off?

[comet240]

i was just re reading what you wrote
you say never turn the cam shaft by itself with no chain as it might damage it

the how do you turn the cam shaft to line up to the markings? i dont think engine breaks where the markings line up

for future reference for next vehicle how do you deal with that?

[comet240]

ok i have valve cover can i tell whats broken by just turning engine at crank shaft?

i took off each lifter and pulled the rod s out and looked at them and then slide them back in the whole
none of them look bent

so i take it then its valves?

[Tech II]

Diagnosis, usually has a set procedure......you've done a lot of work, taking the engine apart, time and again......the way you check push rods, is roll them on a flat table to see if they are bent.....

But doesn't it make sense to do a compression test first, before taking things apart?

If you have a misfire, doesn't it make sense to check coil output, plugs and wires, before taking an engine apart?

If misfire is because of a bad injector, disable fuel and spray a constant stream of fuel into intake to see if misfire is gone....

[comet240]

well i didnt think need to since the car was running perfectly fine before the chain broke


but i have put new plugs and wires on

and i posted in another feed i did a compression test on the one cylinder at least i got 35 psi either it was cylinder 3 or 4


tommorow ill reput the lifters back on and turn it over and do compression test on each cylinder and post the results

[comet240]

alright i put the lifters back down and tighten them down

then put the compression tester on and this is the readings i got

Clyinder PSI
1 0
2 160
3 190
4 80

so now what? comes off the head to replace the valves then right cuz they broke?

[Tech II]

Yup, afraid so.....

You can do a leak down test......easy since #1 is the problem......if you have the tool, just put #1 at TDC(compression), and pressurize the cylinder with air using the leak down tool.......if you hear air out of exhaust, exhaust valve....out of intake, intake valve, from the oil filler tube, bad piston(doubt that).....

It 's a valve....also have a problem with #4, too....

[comet240]

ok so i put air on cylinder 1
and i get air just blowing out the outtake
and i turned engine by hand some and i get air out the intake and the exhaust and also out cylinder 2 or 3
but the intake valve seals off

on cylinder 4 i get air out the intake and cylinder 2 and 3 but it seals off so the exhaust seals off

now i forgoton need to write it down

but the 2 cylinders 1 and 2 no air came ou the oil filler


so what does that all mean

and since the hayes book doesnt say is there special tools needed to remove valves? it doesnt even have it in there
what the steps for that

and considering i gotta take alot off is there a headgasket set for all the seals or i gotta buy each one seperate?

[comet240]

ok i got problem i got the exhaust manifold off

but working on the intake manifold i got the top of and it was covered in black soot and that pipe going up that was plugged with soot what is that?

either way i got the 8 nuts off the mainfold and hit it with the back of a hammer (wood part) to try to push manifold off but it wont go whats holding it on? and dont say that pipe that goes from the pipe with the soot to the engine its the alumunum pipe as i cant get a wrench in there

these cars are made for an elf or a china man he can jump in the engine and work on it

frig lol miss old style easier to work on

[comet240]

ok i finnally got head out

i took pics staring with piston 1 to 4 in order

so how do i take off the springs etc its not in the hayes book and i only done 4 stroke lawn mower engines with just a screw driver

and why is one vavlve black and other white is the white the intake? and do you buy them as a set of 8 so i might as well do them all?

do you have to Lap these or what do i do now have it sent in to be fixed?

i dont see the valves bent and cylinder 1 looks a little open

also took some pics of the cylinder heads too they have anti freeze in them but u can tell me what not