2000 Windstar reverse problem

[grog11]

Try these guys, I have used them before and they are excellent.
Check out the accumulator, Servo section, and the sonnax items.

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=AXOD

Email them for assistance
sales@bulkpart.com

[olopezm]

Thanks man!

I will give it a try when "the beast" has been finally parked LOL. Yesterday I was reversing again and the reverse slammed in just once, I shifted to neutral and back to reverse and the slamming was gone. I'll make sure to post a resolution to this problem when possible.

Oscar.

[olopezm]

Another quick update after some time without any problems.

Last monday I noticed the van surges from 1000 to 1500 RPM's exactly at 30 Km/h everytime, EVEN WHEN IN NEUTRAL. I decided to disconnect the MAF to see if it was causing the engine to surge but the result was the same, it didn't change anything other than having the CEL on and shifting was harsh due to increased pressure. I reconnected the MAF and CEL hasn't turned off, I think it's taking too long but I guess I still haven't completed the necessary cycles to erase the fault code.

Today the transmission slammed in into gear after I was waiting at a red light, when it finally changed to green and I started to accelerate I felt a sudden push (kinda hard, just like when it slams in into reverse) and after a few blocks I had to turn to the right so I started to brake, turned right and when I stepped back on the gas pedal I felt the gear slamming in again. This is the first time it happens when driving forward. When I finally arrived home and reversed into my garage the reverse did not act up.

It looks like something is definitely causing the pressure to go too high when it shouldn't.

What could cause this surging?. Could it be the same thing causing the pressure to go too high?.

Oscar.

[imnprsd]

SO WHAT’S THE CONCLUSION?
My 2000 Windstar (3.8L) with 80,000 miles has these same problems:
Problem #1) History of “clunking” into to reverse 25% of the time.
Problem #2) All of sudden, the reverse will not engage until I rev-up the engine to 2,500RPM and then it slowly engages and reverses the car. However, it only has enough force to move the car on level ground and if I rev the motor it feel like something is “slipping inside.”
These symptoms should allow an expert transmission person to deduce my problem(s) as one of the following, but which one is it?
A) There is a crack in the reverse piston. (I understand you can repair this without dropping the transmission, by removing the valve body. Is this true?)
B) The reverse clutch is bad. Question: Is there a reverse clutch? (Solution ==> Overhaul required?)
C) There is a reverse band that his slipping or failed. Is there a reverse band? (Solution ==> Overhaul required?)

Note: I used 3/4 can of Seafoam and then drained the pan fluid, but didn’t change the filter…I then added Rislone Transmission Stop Slop and 3 qts of fluid...and now the tranny works great (even better than before) in all forward gears, but still no change in the reverse gear.

So I would really appreciate knowing what is the least expensive way to fix this reverse problem, because this car is only worth $1,500 with the transmission working properly…and it’s a shame to overhaul the entire tranny just because the reverse is not working.

Thank you everyone for your posts so I can summarize this problem. But I need to ask again, what's the conclusion other people came to when their reverse failed like mine has?

[olopezm]

Hi, I'm sorry but I have nothing else to comment. I still have the problem and have no idea what's causing it.

The original problem has come to the point where the RPM's will drop enough to cause the battery light on the dashboard to come on as reverse engages. It's pretty weird because it will happen only when I get home and into the garage.

I'm thinking the IAC valve on mine might be weak and going bad. I still believe it's pretty weird for it to happen only when I get home (???).

I really hope you find the answer to your problem. There are great experienced guys here!

Oscar.

[Windstartled]

Originally Posted by imnprsd

So I would really appreciate knowing what is the least expensive way to fix this reverse problem, because this car is only worth $1,500 with the transmission working properly…and it’s a shame to overhaul the entire tranny just because the reverse is not working.

It's what it's worth to you that matters, if you intend to keep driving it for a few years then its market value is irrelevant. Most of us here keep ageing vans because they are practical enough to us to be worth some of the expenses that come with driving older vehicles. Also I guess there is some measure of pride (or stubbornness) that comes with finding cheaper solutions than most people would.

The least expensive way to fix a transmission is to purchase a used tranny from a salvage yard and install it yourself, unfortunately that's also the hardest way. Next best thing is to purchase that same transmission from the salvage yard and have it installed by an independent mechanic that you trust. I had it done on my previous van (a Grand Caravan), it's a 4-hour job for a well equipped shop, and labor costs amounted to $224 ($56/h) plus tax, which is very reasonable, plus the $200 I had paid for the tranny itself.

One positive aspect of driving a turn-of-the-century Windstar is that, due to its popularity, there is an ample supply of used parts available for it from various sources. I wish it was the same for my Bimmer

[scubacat]

Originally Posted by Windstartled

and labor costs amounted to $224 ($56/h) plus tax,

Sorry, I really don't mean to hijack this thread but where is this $56/hour deal! Do you have a time machine to go back to 1995 and get the work done? Just wondering! I haven't seen less than $100/hr in quite some time.

As to this issue, I'm wondering if maybe one of the IMRCs is stuck open. The RPMs spiking sound suspicious although this is just a wild guess from someone who knows very little about diagnosing transmission issues. (My last tranny "issue" was a busted motor mount. )

My local transmission shop doesn't charge for a diagnosis; might be worth having one done even for $100 or so just to get a better handle on the root cause of this.

[yenyao]

Hi, I am also wondering if anyone knows about this problem? I got the same problem when I put the car in reverse. It feels like is loosing power. As well as driving foward, the slam feeling occure when I am on uphill or when I am driving around 80KM/H going 100KM/H. I can usually make the slamming go away or turn it down by pushing the accelarator harder.
I ask the shop and they say it could be trasmission problem, then I ask dealer, they say they need to run a $150 test to try to find out what's the problem, but no guarranty they will find any, since non of the error code has come out.
Thanks

[olopezm]

Originally Posted by yenyao

Hi, I am also wondering if anyone knows about this problem? I got the same problem when I put the car in reverse. It feels like is loosing power. As well as driving foward, the slam feeling occure when I am on uphill or when I am driving around 80KM/H going 100KM/H. I can usually make the slamming go away or turn it down by pushing the accelarator harder.
I ask the shop and they say it could be trasmission problem, then I ask dealer, they say they need to run a $150 test to try to find out what's the problem, but no guarranty they will find any, since non of the error code has come out.
Thanks

Hi yenyao,

Welcome to the forum!

If you haven't performed any diagnostic procedures, I would advise you to first take a look at your MAF sensor; if it's dirty it can cause some drivability problems such as loss of power. The PCM uses it to control transmission fluid pressure and shifting.

Oscar.

[12Ounce]

Another way to approach this problem is to buy a Ford reman ... I spent less than $1700 some years ago for my '99's reman tranny ... the reman came full of fresh fluid and with all new electrics ... was warrantied 75k miles (now warrantied 100k miles). I dropped the subframe with tranny and engine block intact ... replaced the tranny, raised the sub-frame back in place.

This was all 125k miles ago, and the tranny is still shifting just fine.

[olopezm]

In case you end up needing a full replacement, you should do as 12Ounce says, go to the dealer for a quote; I did about a month ago and they quoted me with ~$1550 for a reman transmission WITH LABOR.

I say it's a great price; when I get this thing running and if the tranny keeps acting up, I might consider that option, specially if I don't have to deal with the replacement process. Would be the only reason to take it to a mechanic/dealer.

Oscar.

[yenyao]

Thanks oscar. I will give it a try to clean the MAF sensor. one question, is this sensor the one that's located in the same tube as air filter ?

[olopezm]

Originally Posted by yenyao

Thanks oscar. I will give it a try to clean the MAF sensor. one question, is this sensor the one that's located in the same tube as air filter ?

That's correct. Another thing you might want to try in case you haven't is to replace the ENTIRE transmission fluid and filter. When fluid started to get old in mine, switching from P or N to any other gear would give a harsh engagement (not clunking or slamming but definitely it wasn't soft).

Oscar.