2001 Windstar Stalling Out

[ahommel]

I have a 2001 Windstar that keeps sputtering out while I am driving, sharp turns, and sometimes when parking. It varies - sometimes it will do this after being driven just a few minutes, other times after several hours. Recently, when it sputtered out it would not restart, had to have car jumped, and then drive back home.

Here's what I've had done and known problems:

- I know I have an intake manifold leak, however I've been quoted $1200 to fix it and just don't have that at this time

- Oil Leak: mechanic says its from multiple areas, so I just check the oil every few days and carry 1-2 quarts with me at all times

Recently Fixed or Work Done:

- Just put a new alternator in there less than a week ago
- Had the coolant reservoir replaced about four weeks ago
- Replaced some hoses about six months ago

After reading these forums, I'm going to have them replace the fuel filters and check the fuel pump. They quoted me $90 for replacing the fuel filter. Any ideas or what else this could be? Or what else I should check for? Our family has an eight hour road trip in a month and I really don't want to end up stranded on the side of the road eight hours from home with two small kids all by myself. Additionally, I don't want to pay too much as I've already paid an arm and a leg for other repairs over the last few weeks.

Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

-Amanda-

[tomj76]

Although this is not necessarily going to address the stalling problem, you should address the intake manifold leak ASAP. A cheap way to fix it may be to add a "Stop Leak" solution to the coolant. I've done this when finding coolant leaks at least twice and have experienced good results. I don't use stop leak solutions for other cases such as oil leaks, but coolant passages are more tolerant and you're less likely to create worse problems by using the stop-leak. I'd suggest also changing the oil and oil filter a few days after applying the stop-leak.

It's possible that your problem with the sputtering is related to the manifold leak. However, there's a wide range of other potential causes as well.

For example, I recently had a problem with another vehicle (an older GM product) where the symptoms could have been described much like you did in your post, including losing power while driving it, finding it difficult to start at times, and even times when it would not start at all. I thought the problem was with the fuel filter or fuel pump, but found that it was due to an electrical problem with a fuel injector.

The nice thing about changing a fuel filter is that it should be relatively inexpensive (<$10 parts, <$40 labor). I have not paid for a fuel filter change, but I think $90 is too high. Call a few places to see if you can get a better idea of the fair price.

[scubacat]

Even the ford dealer by my house which typically will rip you off every way possible offers a $59 fuel filter change special. The sputtering out is likely fuel pressure, and the first and cheapest thing you should do is the fuel filter replacement. Even if it doesn't fix the problem, it's a maintenance item that should be done anyway so it won't be money wasted.

[olopezm]

Hi Amanda,

I'm curious about where are you seeing the oil leak?.

You mention an intake manifold leak and oil leak. There is a Service Bulletin (TSB) describing problems about vacuum leaks caused by defective isolator bolts (You can read a little more about it by clicking HERE). It will sometimes trip a Check Engine Light (CEL) and sometimes it won't; in my case it didn't, but I HAD OIL LEAKING/SEEPING between the black plastic intake manifold (upper intake manifold, looks like a shell) and the aluminum under it (lower intake manifold). Replacing the 8 isolator bolts and 6 port gaskets solved my problem. If the vacuum is big enough it could cause some drivability problems such as hesitation at some points.

I would look somewhere else for the fuel filter replacement, maybe something like pepboys, grease monkey or anywhere else, but whatever they say DON'T let them change anything else apart from the fuel filter. $90 dlls is definitely WAY TOO MUCH for such job.

If you stand by the fuel filler neck and listen closely. Have you noticed the fuel pump being noisier than usual? Checking the fuel pump is a must in your case, the worst thing would be to have them replace it for the price of an arm and a leg, and end up with the same problem...

If you haven't replaced it, I would look at the air filter too. It's not very expensive and takes 5 minutes to replace. Autozone clerks might be able to change it for you while in the parking lot!

A dirty MAF sensor could be another possibility. Whatever you do, have them CLEAN IT FIRST WITH CRC MAF SENSOR CLEANER OR ELECTRIC CONTACT CLEANER instead of just replacing it. DON'T LET THEM USE CARBURETOR CLEANER.

And finally check how's the condition of the battery. A bad or dying battery can cause numerous problems and you can end up replacing a lot of parts just to find out it was indeed your battery. You can have it tested at autozone, NAPA, Oreilly's and similar autoparts stores; SEARS can do it as well.

I hope this information helps.

Oscar.

[scubacat]

Great information from Oscar! I would still recommend doing the fuel filter FIRST. I would imagine that it's possible that the fuel pump would sound noisy if it's overworking due to a blocked fuel filter. Definitely do what he suggested and go to any autoparts store for the battery test. They'll test the battery, alternator, and starter for free and even give you a little printed report.