4Runner FAQs - Page 3

Brian R. · 10-24-2006, 12:29 PM

WHAT SHOULD I LOOK TO DO IN A HIGH-MILEAGE 4RUNNER?

Q: Bought my 3.4L V6 4Runner at 96,000 in 2001 - Now has 245,000 mi. What do I need to be watching for with this type of mileage? Starter replaced; timing belt, water pump, spark plugs and wires at about 125,000.

A: Keep up with the scheduled maintenance, particularly lubricants in the drive train (engine, transmission, transfer case, differentials, propellor shafts) and coolant. May be about time for another timing belt and water pump.
Brake linings, brake line flush, Inspect brake lines
Powersteering fluid flush
Clean the MAF meter with electronic spray cleaner, throttlebody/IAC valve, EGR valve, injectors (additive in gas tank)
Tighten chassis/body bolts to spec
Lube your door hinges and hood latch and hinges with spray lithium grease
Accessory belts tight and in good shape - check for cracks on the inside surface
Radiator/heater hoses should probably be replaced
Radiator cap
Gasket in fuel filler cap
PCV valve
Fuel filter may be needed
Inspect your fuel lines and fittings for damage or leaks/tightness
Ball joints/tie rod ends for play or damaged boots/dust covers
Drive shaft boots for tears or leaks, loose clamps, damage
Alignment if not current
Driver and passenger seat mounting bolts
Loose or missing bolts in Steering system, drivetrain, suspension system, fuel tank mounts, engine mounts, etc.

Brian R. · 11-09-2006, 12:10 AM

POSTING A LINK TO AN IMAGE FILE OR INSERTING AN IMAGE INTO A POST

Get an account at Photobucket.com (or some equivalent host) and upload the images from your computer (or camera directly) to there. Then copy and paste either the Url link to the image file or the Img reference itself to a post. Both the Img link and the Url link are generated under the image on photobucket.com by that site automatically. Here's a couple of examples:

If I post the following link, you only see the link in the post, clicking on it will allow you to download the linked image from photobucket.com:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/i1010.gif

If I post the IMG link (as below), then I will have the actual image inserted into the post, as long as I don't break the link by moving the image file on photobucket.com. If you do, you have to update the links to that file or you only see a placeholder, no image any more.

[IMG]xhttp://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b8/rogersb/i1010.gif[/IMG]

gives you without the "x" at the beginning:

Brian R. · 02-03-2007, 05:13 PM

'96 - '98 4Runner Extended EVAP Warranties

Certain 1996 1997 1998 Toyota's are eligible for extended warrantly/free repairs

The evaporative emission control system warranty will be extended from the current two years or 24,000 miles to 14 years or 150,000 miles. The extended warranty is estimated to cost Toyota about $3 million, and will reduce emissions of hydrocarbons by affected vehicles by an estimated 30 tons, in addition to the 1,200-ton reduction of hydrocarbons achieved by the supplement environmental project.

Owners who have not received a notice within 12 months are encouraged to contact their local Toyota dealer. Owners of affected vehicles who suspect a problem with their evaporative emission control system (including the smell of gasoline vapors) should contact an authorized Toyota dealer for service under the extended evaporative system warranty. Toyota will not cover the cost of repairs or diagnosis for systems other than the evaporative emission system or for repairs performed by parties other than authorized Toyota repair facilities.

See the following list for affected vehicles:

Brian R. · 02-11-2007, 05:23 PM

HARD STARTING

Q: My 99 4runner v6 4wd 100k miles is acting up when I try to start it on cold mornings (-10,-15 deg C) Canadian weather.

The starter turns 2-3 times then it stops while all the lights in the dash are on. Usually when I try the second or sometimes the third time, the engine eventually starts. Some mornings the starter does not make any noises at all when I try it the first time, but after I try the second time it turns rather slowly and eventually the truck starts up.
I had the same problem about three weeks ago and I purchased a new battery. The truck started OK all this time but now I have the same problem again.

The truck starts OK during the day except when it is parked for 8 hours or more.
I never liked the way the truck starts since I purchased it 2 years ago. The starter needs to turn 4-5 times before the engine starts. All my previous vehicles started at one turn (4 cyl cars).

A: 1. How long a drive do you take? If the new battery solved your problem and now it's back, then it may be you are not driving the truck long enough to charge the battery. Along with this, you may have a big drain on your battery because of an accessory that is running, such as a large amplifier/stereo, etc. A high-current drain would make your alternator work much harder and longer to get the battery recharged. Starting the vehicle in the cold puts a large drain on the battery and the alternator can only put out a limited amount of current to replace that used in starting. Check your battery. If it is poorly charged, then it is likely that the alternator or alternator connections are your problem. It may also be that your alternator drive belt is loose and slipping so that you are not charging the battery as well as you could. Check the drive belt for the alternator and make sure it's tight as it should be.

2. In that respect, your alternator may be inadequate to recharge your battery. Consider having it's output checked. It may not be putting out enough juice to charge the battery quick enough to keep you going. Also, the cable from the alternator may be bad and limiting the current to charge the battery. If you find that the alternator is fine, but the battery is not well charged because you don't drive it but 10 min after you start it, you can replace it with a higher curent alternator to charge the battery faster. Again, make sure the cable from the alternator is in good shape.

3. Help your truck get started by making sure the plugs are fresh and you are using a light-weight synthetic motor oil. Dino oil gets thicker when it is older, but not synthetic. I would recommend you use 0W-20 Mobil1 or equivalent brand in Toronto in the winter.

4. A high-capacity battery is also necessary (as I'm sure you know from living up there). When you buy a battery, make sure you buy one with alot of cold-cranking amps. Maybe, your battery isn't up to the task of day-to-day starting because you didn't get one with adequate reserve capacity.

5. If the truck doesn't start right away under the best of circumstances, you may have a fuel delivery-related problem. Check your fuel filter, lines, and fuel pump to make sure you are getting fuel pressure quickly. There should be no delay in building up fuel pressure. A kink in the line, a dirty/clogged filter, or a bad fuel pump can delay starting until the pressure is adequate. The engine will not get the necessary rich mixture to start until the fuel pressure is up to spec. A rich mixture may not be available if the injectors are partially plugged. You can try cleaning them with some gas treatment or bring them to a shop that specializes in fuel-injector cleaning.

6. Check the current draw on the starter. If the starter is going bad, it will begin to draw alot more current to do the same work and drain the battery to a much greater extent than a good starter. This will make charging the battery take alot longer and wear out your battery sooner.

7. Under any circumstances, a high drain on the battery will cause a loss of electrolyte. Check the electrolyte level in your battery (all cells) and make sure they are up to the recommended level. Fill them as needed with distilled or deionized water.

It's one of those chicken and egg problems where the engine is not able to start quickly and thus drains the battery. The drained battery turns the engine over more slowly and makes it more difficult to start, which drains the battery further.

Brian R. · 04-09-2007, 11:31 PM

PROGRAMMING KEYLESS ENTRY REMOTES

http://programyourremote.com/

Brian R. · 05-01-2007, 04:36 AM

Brian R. · 05-06-2007, 02:01 AM

BREAKING-IN NEW ENGINES

An interesting article on breaking in 4-stroke engines from a very successful engine builder.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

And one about breaking in Lycoming aircraft engines.

http://www.lycoming.com/support/tips...Operations.pdf

See the first page...

"A new, rebuilt or overhauled engine should receive the same start, warm-up and preflight checks as any other engine. There are some aircraft owners and pilots who would prefer to use low power settings for cruise during the break-in period. This is not recommended. A good break-in requires that the piston rings expand sufficiently to seat with the cylinder walls. This seating of the ring with the cylinder wall will only occur when pressures inside the cylinder are great enough to cause expansion of the piston rings. Pressures in the cylinder only become great enough for a good break-in when power settings above 65% are used.
Full power for takeoff and climb during the break-in period is not harmful; it is beneficial, although engine temperatures should be monitored closely to ensure that overheating does not occur. Cruise power settings above 65%, and preferably in the 70% to 75% of rated power range, should be used to achieve a good engine break-in.

Remember that if the new or rebuilt engine is normally aspirated (non-turbocharged), it will be necessary to cruise at lower altitudes to obtain the required cruise power levels. Density altitudes in excess of 8000 feet (5000 feet is recommended) will not allow the engine to develop sufficient cruise power for a good break-in.
For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for high power settings during engine break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates a condition commonly known as glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break-in procedures.

To summarize, there are just a few items to remember about engine break-in:
1. If a preservative oil has been added by the aircraft manufacturer, drain it no later than the first 25 hours of operation;
2. Follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendation regarding the oil to be used for break-in and the period between changes;
3. Run the engine at high cruise power levels for best piston ring/cylinder wall mating;
4. Continue break-in operation for 50 hours or until oil consumption stabilizes. These simple procedures should eliminate the possibility of cylinder wall glazing and should prepare the engine for a long and satisfactory service life."

SidneyCanada · 01-20-2008, 10:25 PM

Fuel economy for many popular vehicles:

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.htm

4-Runner/pickup history:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/history.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=359043
http://www.brian894x4.com/Toyotapick...nermodels.html
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/4runner/history.html
http://www.toyoland.com/trucks/4runner.html
http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...ry_4Runner.htm
http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...tory_truck.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_4Runner
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Truck
http://www.top4runners.com/ja/runhist1.html
http://offroaddirectory.net/1985_toyota_4runner.htm
http://www.toysport.com/Technical%20...nsmissions.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/P...Gearboxes.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_transmissions
http://www.answers.com/topic/toyota-w-transmission-1
http://www.sr5.net/sr5_sr5.htm

Toyota VIN & axle decoding sites:

http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html
http://www.geocities.com/toyotashawn/ratios.html
http://www.sor.com/TranGearRatio.html
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechI...tml#DiffRatios
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/vin
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t81102.html
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ToyVIN.shtml
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/vin
http://www.vinguard.org/vin.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Truck
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Vehicle...yota/VIN_Codes
http://www.autobaza.pl
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homep...o/oldcodes.htm
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/other/4_dts.html
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/P...Gearboxes.html
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/other/4_axles.html
http://aarc.epnet.com/application/8578/8578.htm
http://www.autoinsurancetips.com/toyota_vin.htm
http://www.paintscratch.com

In North America the 22R & 22R-E s are used in the following (some):

22R
1981-82 Toyota Corona
1981-83 Celica
1981-87 Toyota pickup (up to 1990 on 2wd)
1984-87 Toyota 4-Runner

22R-E (22REC=California emissions=extra charcoal canister)
1983-85 Celica
1985-95 Toyota pickup
1985-95 Toyota 4-Runner

22RTE (Turbo EFI)
1985-87 Toyota pickup
1985-87 Toyota 4-Runner

22R Series tech data:

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar119838.htm
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar400108.htm
http://www.toyotaperformance.com/flow22r_re_stock.htm
http://www.toyotaperformance.com/toy_22r_re_mod.htm
http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/ar....jsp?id=274605
http://www.lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote48.htm
http://www.toysport.com/Technical%20...tech_notes.htm
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/...toy_motor.html
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/other/4_dts.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_R_engine#22R
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/P...ct/Engine.html
http://www.toyota-mods.org/engines.txt
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/engines2.html
http://www.engnbldr.com/ToyotaHotlicks.htm
http://www.bitwalla.com/cruisers/info/engines.html
http://www.off-road.com/tlc/faq/engine.html
http://www.jnc.farpost.com/toytech.html
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes.htm
http://www.buschtaxi.net/de/01info/motoren.html
http://www.landcruiser.hu/motorok.html
http://www.toysport.com/Technical%20...nsmissions.htm
http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/ar....jsp?id=274536
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_transmissions

22R & 22R-E & 22RTE timing chain replacement:

Most engine wear on any engine occurs at startup with that said the R series Toyota engines such as the 18R,20R and 22R all use a timing chain which it's tension is supplied by hydraulically driven timing chain tensioner which has it's oil pressure build up few seconds after the engine has started therefore the timing chain rubs on the driver's side brown colored nylon/plastic timing chain dampener or guide and after so many miles (140-170 000 miles in the city with the average 4 starts per day) the driver's side guide breaks through causing the chain to rub on the timing chain cover for the first few seconds upon startup and when driving in 5th gear and letting off the gas.

Usually by this point the other timing components such as the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and chain have their specs out of tolerance and hence must be replaced as well. The tensioner sometimes sticks due to dirt build up and other problems arise as well and must be replaced as well, all of those parts are sold in the aftermarket world as a "timing chain kit" which also include gaskets and a front oil crankshaft seal. Toyota on the other hand for some reason does not sell the parts as a kit but as individual parts which would cost around $400+ and from all of the reading I have done on many Toyota 4-Runner/pickup discussion sites I have come to the conclusion that many experienced off-roaders who cannot afford to buy all of the genuine Toyota timing parts instead buy the chain and tensioner from Toyota and the other parts from aftermarket as a kit but of course don't use the aftermarket chain or tensioner.

The best brand of aftermarket timing chain parts to use on the 20R & 22R series Toyota motors are:

http://www.engnbldr.com/Toyota-Hotlicks.htm
http://www.mizumoauto.com
http://www.22r.biz
http://www.rpmrons.com/toyotatiming.html
http://www.toyota-engine-parts.com
http://www.europeanautomotive.com

and if you choose to buy from Toyota these places have the best prices in the USA & probably the whole world:

http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html (10% shipping by Fed Ex or free shipping with $100 & over speak to Roger at 1-888-271-3948)
http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com (free shipping with $100 & up)
http://www.Toyotaparts4U.com
http://www.toyotaofplano.com

Other ways to check timing chain wear are:

http://www.misterfixit.com/chanslop.htm

you can also remove the valve cover and take a flashlight and see if the driver's side timing chain dampener or guide wore through.

You can bend 1 to all 8 valves and have timing cover eaten through if you wait and then coolant and oil mix together to give you butterflies in your stomach. You can do a fluid analysis on your engine oil by going to any Caterpillar and buying a fluid analysis kit for around $15-20 and taking a sample of your old oil.

Finally these sites explain the timing chain replacement well:

http://yotarepair.com/22R%20timingchain.html
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/doatimingchain

Make sure you use 50% Toyota long life red low silicates radiator coolant to reduce corrosion build up on the tiny water bypass passages found in the aluminum cylinder head and preferably 50% distilled water, rain water or snow water.

I would pour the mixed coolant & water combination into the thermostat hole until full then install new stat and stat cover/hose tighten up. Start the truck on an incline or car ramps and start pouring mixed coolant & water combo into radiator almost to the neck wait for stat to open which is about 10 minutes of idling then turn your heater on to high and hot (as well as your back seat heater controls for those with 4-Runners) and rev the engine back and forth but not too high. Re-top the coolant and continue to do so for one or more stat cycles.

Finally turn the heater control from hot to cold repeatedly and from high to low and place about half mixed coolant & water into overflow bottle and place stat cap back on, take for a test drive.Once engine has cooled off check the rad level and overflow bottle.

Heater control speed setting motor problems (no heater motor power or only one speed setting working):
Heavy blower resistor (Toyota EPC calls it a cooler/coil resistor,fan coil resistor) for fan Toyota # 88635-89103 (85-86 4-Runner,4 speed fan) & Toyota # 87138-89105 (89 pickup)

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Blower.shtml

ECU (EFi computer) code extraction:

About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes to see if a fault is registered.

To pull the ECU codes:

All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner, the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the instructions on how to do it:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-36.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-53.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-71.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-90.htm
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...osticcodes.gif
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote12.htm
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote13.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/P...ct/Engine.html
http://www.mad-mechanic.com/toyota/t...tml#obtaincode
http://www.freewebs.com/th3duke/22RE-ECU.mht
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTi...ror_codes.aspx
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/inf...E/Page0096.htm
http://www.efisakh.narod.ru/at_toyota.htm (auto tranny codes)
http://www.usatransdoctor.com/foreigntoyota.htm
http://www.obd-codes.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=3

Pulling the ECU (EFI computer) codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements at each ECU wire both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual, I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare the resistance values with the factory service manual. This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's, vcr's, home/car audio.

Oxygen sensor replacement:

The oxygen sensor is replaced for free in the USA only when the vehicle reaches it's first 80 000 miles regardless of the age & number of owners as stated in the factory owner's manual in the maintenance section, some Toyota dealerships are reluctant to replace it for free if that happens contact the Toyota regional head office for your region where they will give your local dealership 48 hours to comply.

On average the oxygen sensors should be replaced every 6 years or 100 000 miles or so which ever comes first as stated in the owner's manual, warranty booklet and factory service manual.

Symptoms of a bad o2 sensor are poor gas mileage, hesistation in acceleration, worse emissions, and in severe cases after the stat opens the engine can no longer maintain stable 750 rpm (with manual 5 spd tranny) idle and the engine begins to stall.

The 02 sensor is designed to function once the vehicle has warmed up which is about after 10 minutes where the thermostat begins to open at 190 or 195 degrees Ferenheit depending on thermostat then the vehicles ECU system enters what they call a "closed loop system" then the exhaust manifold's temperature reaches 400 degree Ferenheit (I think)that's where the sensor starts to do it's job which is usually when the thermostat first opens up then the oxygen sensor senses the ratio of air to fuel and sends a signal back to the ECU then ECU compensates by increasing or decrease the open time for the fuel injectors to pump fuel.

So usually the problem of stalling shows up after about 10 minutes of driving or so. Many folks think that the o2 sensor is bad but an exhaust leak can cause excess oxygen to enter the exhaust system thereby fooling the sensor into thinking there is too much oxygen, there are other problems that could cause it to give false reading such as a vacuum leak.

If you discover that the o2 sensor is bad and it is not under warranty then from my/others experience/research purchase an o2 sensor in the following order:

1)Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso)
2)Denso aftermarket (Same as original but sold aftermarket)
3)NTK (oxygen sensor division of NGK)

Available at:

http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html (10% shipping by Fed Ex or free shipping with $100 & over speak to Roger at 1-888-271-3948)
http://www.toyotadiscountparts.com (free shipping with $100 & up)
http://www.Toyotaparts4U.com
http://www.toyotaofplano.com
http://www.densoaftermarket.com
http://www.densoproducts.com
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com

before you replace the oxygen sensor soak the 14 mm brass nuts with any of these deep penetrating oils several times for several hours:

1)PB Blaster
2)Liquid Wrench
3)Kroil Oil
4)Aero Kroil & Sili Kroil
5)Toyota Rust Penetrant or High Performance Penetrating lube
6)Rust Check
7)Fluid Film

the first ones being the best, also if you decide you need new ones here is the Toyota part for the exhaust manifold (brass)nuts # 90179-10175 (14 mm socket)

Cleaning throttle body:

Lots of city miles combined with low octane fuel & no Techtron fuel additive (cleaner) creates excessive throttle body carbon build up (gunk) so throttle body must be cleaned.

To clean the throttle body remove the air intake hose and examine the intake and throttle body for excessive carbon build up if found then buy a can of throttle body cleaner labeled "safe on oxygen sensors, TPS's and catalytic converters" do not use carb cleaner make sure your engine is fully warmed up prior to using as when the throttle body is hot it dissolves the carbon easily and quickly.

The labels usually specify to park the vehicle at ground level (0 degrees, no inclination) and have the engine running but I disagree I instead park the vehicle on a hill facing down and shut the engine off and hold a rag below the lip of the throttle body and poor the stuff and use a tooth brush. You can also use "Sea Foam" the best engine cleaner:

http://www.seafoamsales.com

available in Canada through UAP/NAPA Auto Parts Stores.

5 speed manual transmissions having shifting problems (not shifting into a gear or popping out of a gear):

Shift lever pilot bushing Toyota # 33548-31010 (green)=$7 CDN
Shift lever seat Toyota # 33505-35020 or 33505-35030 (white)=$16 CDN

Note: the 2 above #’s fit all trannies:G,R,W series (22R,R-E,3VZE)84-95.5,no need for entire shift lever retainer (85-95.5 pre-Tacoma)

http://www.4runners.org/writeups/shift/index.html
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/shifter/index.html
http://www.brian894x4.com/Shifter.html
http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/ar....jsp?id=186539
http://www.marlincrawler.com/docs/sh...eat/index.html
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/tra...rans_parts.htm

These are 40 Toyota used parts suppliers and junk/bone/wrecking/salvage/recycling/dismantling/scrap yards:

Toy Works 4WD Technology
Shane Lawrence
County Road 109
Orangeville, Ontario L9V 1A1
Canada
Ph: (519) 938-9844

Toy Works
K C Signs
Portugal Cove, NL A0A 3K0
Canada
Ph: (709) 895-6123

South Island Imports
2053 Balsam Rd
Nanaimo (South),Vancouver Island, BC V9X 1T5
Canada
Ph: 1-877-753-1119
Ph: (250) 753-8019
http://www.southislandimports.ca
E-mail:southislandimports@shaw.ca

Toyota 4x4 center (AllToy)
Kami 4X4
Tony Carr
427 Mount Paul Way
South Kamloops, BC V2H 1A7
Canada
Ph: (250) 851-4480

HonDaToy Automotive Ltd
14325-114 Ave
Edmonton, Alberta T5M 2Y8
Canada
Ph: 1-800-661-3957
Ph: (780) 453-6711
http://www.hondatoy.com
E-mail

arts@hondatoy.com

Yota Ray's Toyota 4X4 Truck Parts
1808A–17 th Ave S.E
Calgary, Alberta T2G 1K4
Canada
Ph: 1-877-273-7322
Ph: (403) 273–8137
Fax: (403) 263–8185
http://www.yotarays.ca
E-mail:office@yotarays.ca

Adamant Service Center
Box 70,Hagget Rd
Adamant, VT 05640
USA
Ph: (802) 233-1488
E-mail:asc@drbs.com

Woodward's Used Toyota Parts
3059 Main St
PO Box 236
Summneytown, PA 18084
USA
Ph: 1-800-646-4386
Ph: (215) 234-4386
Fax: (215) 234-8035

Lowells Toyota Parts
111 Mechanic St
Lexington, KY 40507
USA
Ph: (606) 233-1173

Tallant Brothers (Toyota/Honda/Nissan)
Jimmy & Greg
4695 Oak Grove Circle
Cumming, GA 30130
USA
Ph: 1-800-635-0351
Ph: (404) 887-5214
Fax: (770) 889-7244

Graham's Automotive
958 HWY 202
Calera, AL 35040
USA
Ph: (205) 668-3441
http://www.grahamsauto.com
E-mail:jon@grahamsauto.com

Victor's Off Road Engineering
Victor
4646 Lonedell Road
Arnold (Saint Louis),Missouri 63010
USA
Ph: (636)296-6696

Toyota Heaven
6723 Oakcrest Dr East
Fort Worth/Kennedale, TX 76140
USA
Ph: (817) 563-1744
Ph: (817) 563-1754
E-mail:frs@toyohv.actual-america.com

A-1 Toyota Salvage
302 New Laredo Highway
San Antonio, TX 78211-1908
USA
Ph: (210) 921-0031

Yota Yard
Jim/Nancy Wales
3134 Walnut St
Denver, CO 80205
USA
Ph: (303) 292-5078
Fax: (303) 308-0430
http://www.yotayard.com
E-mail:nancy@yotayard.com

Jim's Used Toyota Truck Parts
4210 Jackson Street
Denver, CO 80216
USA
Ph: (303) 506-5119
http://www.jimsgotparts.com
Email Jim:jim@jimsgotparts.com
Email Dee:dee@jimsgotparts.com

Toyotas "R" Us
7730 CR 150
Salida, CO 81201
USA
Ph: (719) 539-7733

Toyota Salvage
3224 S 40th St
Phoenix, Arizona 85040
USA
Ph: 1-877-807-4314
Ph: (602) 437-1222
http://www.toyotasalvage.com

Mazda-Toyota Auto Recycling (also Nissan)
Richard
3611 NW Marine Dr
Troutdale, OR 97060
USA
Ph: 1-800-628-0918
Ph: (503) 667-6818
Fax: (503) 669-7810
http://www.maztoy.com
E-mail:sales@maztoy.com

The Toyota Man
3610 NE Columbia Blvd
Portland, OR 97211
USA
Ph: (503) 775-3345
E-mail:thetoyotaman@earthlink.net

Ali's auto (Tacoma,Tundra & T-100)
1340 Idaho St
Pt.Orford, OR 97456
USA
Ph: (541) 332-0333

Nix 99
13718 Mukilteo Speedway
Lynnwood, WA 98037
USA
Ph: 1-800-782-0682
Ph: (425) 743-2881
http://www.nix99.com
E-mail

arts@nix99.com

All Toyota Auto Recycling
27865 SR 410
East Buckley, WA 98321
USA
Ph: 1-800-829-9766
Fax: (360) 829-1852
E-mail:dliy@aol.com

Kings Honda & Toyota Auto Recycling Inc
9101 Martin Luther King Jr. Way South
Seattle, WA 98118
USA
Ph: (206) 723-9633
Fax: (206) 722-1599
http://www.kingshondaandtoyota.com
E-mail

arts@KingsHondaAndToyota.com

All Japanese Auto Recyclers
11301 Dismantle CT
Rancho Cordova, CA 95742
USA
Ph: 1-888-608-PART
Ph: (916) 635-2345
Fax: (916) 635-8100
http://www.alljapaneseautoparts.com
E-mail:alljapanese@jps.net

Toyota Truck & Auto Recycling (TAP Recycling)
11337 Dismantle CT
Rancho Cordova, CA 95742
USA
Ph: (916) 631-7100

Toyota Engines By CT Engineering
3457 Fitzgerald Rd
Rancho Cordova, CA 95742
USA
Ph: (916) 852-1032

All Toyota Used Parts
3370-A Sunrise Blvd
Rancho Cordova, CA 95742
USA
Ph: 1-800-557-8674
Ph: (916) 853-7242
Fax: (916) 635-5724
http://www.alltoyotausedparts.com
E-mail:webmaster@alltoyotausedparts.com

Toyota Truck & Auto Recycling
Al
3636 Omac Circle
Rancho Cordova, CA 95742
USA
Ph: 1-800-765-7100

Toyota Truck Parts
3440 Recycle Road
Sacramento, CA 95742
USA
Ph: 1-866-292-9495
Ph: (916) 853-0833
http://www.toyotatruckparts.biz
E-mail:service@toyotatruckparts.biz

Capitol Import
4071 Happy Lane
Sacramento, CA 95827
USA
Ph: 1-800-259-5529
Ph: (916) 366-7470
http://www.capitolimport.com
E-mail:sales@capitolimport.com

The Toyota Connection
Ryan
2620 W. Capital Ave
West Sacramento, CA 95691
USA
Ph: 1-800-221-8696
Ph: (916) 371-7764
Fax: (916) 371-7037

Toyotas Only
11540 Hart St
N. Hollywood, CA 91604/5
USA
Ph: 1-800-835-2444
Ph: (818) 765-0322
Ph: (818) 765-0323
Fax: (818) 765-8013
http://www.toyopartsonly.com
E-mail:webmaster@toyopartsonly.com

LA Toyota Auto Dismantling Inc
11115 Tuxford ST
Sun Valley, CA 91352
USA
Ph: (818) 768 4142
Fax: (818) 768 8442

D & T Used Parts/DNT Auto Dismantling (Datsuns and Toyotas)
8970 Bradley Ave
Sun Valley, CA 91352 or Pacoima, CA 91331
USA
Ph: (818) 768-4666

Toyota Truck & 4X4 Dismantlers
991 Berryessa Road
San Jose, CA 95133
USA
Ph: (408) 436-7890
Fax: (408) 436-9779

Bernie's Auto Dismantling
1008 Vreeland Ave
Wilmington, CA 90744
USA
Ph: (310) 518-2685

California Mini-Truck Dismantlers
4002 State Street
Montclair, CA 91765
USA
Ph: (909) 622-1381
Fax: (909) 623-3240
http://www.calminitruck.com
E-mail:info@calminitruck.com

Minit Truck Dismantling Center
1700 Newton Avenue
San Diego, CA 92113
USA
Ph: 1-800-827-1970
Ph: (619) 233-3884

All Toyota Lexus Auto Recycling
Chuck
1060 Otay Valley Rd
San Diego, CA 92154-5615
USA
Ph: 1-877-778-6968
Ph: (619) 661-0055
E-Mail:scrapdaddy@cox.net

Sidney® ™
Repairs TV's,VCR's,home/car audio out of my apartment
E-mail:sidneybek(at)yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada

Brian R. · 02-19-2008, 09:57 AM

REFERENCE FOR 5VZ-FE HEAD GASKET REPLACE

http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=2241.0

Brian R. · 12-21-2008, 03:55 PM

Battery Ratings

According to Consumer Reports, car batteries cost and ratings are as follows (best ratings are at the top of each Group):

Group 65
DieHard Platinum 50065 $180 90
Duralast Gold 65-DLG $97 80
CR Best Buy Kirkland Signature 12866 $75 78
NAPA Performance Select 8465 $90 77
AutoCraft Titanium 65-2 $90 77
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-65N (North) $75 76
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-65S (South) $75 73
Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-65 $114 72
DieHard Gold 33165 (South) $110 67
Duralast 65-DL $88 66
DieHard Gold 33065 (North) $110 62
Interstate Mega-Tron II MT-65 $100 60
DieHard 30065 (North) $90 54
DieHard 30365 (South) $90 50

Group 34/78 & 78
DieHard Platinum 50090 $180 91
Optima RedTop SC34U $150 76
Deka Intimidator 9A78DT $188 75
DieHard SUV, Truck and Van 39990 (South) $120 72
CR Best Buy NAPA Select 84 34/78 $82 67
CR Best Buy AutoCraft Titanium 34/78-4 $83 66
DieHard SUV, Truck and Van 39890 (North) $120 66
Orbital Exide Select ORB78DT-84 $172 66
Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-78DT $113 63
Duralast Gold 34DT-DLG $95 63
EverStart Maxx-78N (North) $75 60
EverStart Maxx-78S (South) $75 59
Interstate Mega-Tron II MT-78DT $99 52

Group 24 /24F
Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-24 $101 83
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-24N (North) $75 82
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-24S (South) $75 78
DieHard Gold 33123 (South) $110 76
Duralast Gold 24-DLG $89 75
AutoCraft Titanium 24-6 $85 72
DieHard Gold 33023 (North) $110 59
Interstate Mega-Tron II MT-24 $88 43

Group 35
Duralast Gold 35-DLG $93 79
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-35N (North) $75 79
DieHard Gold 33035 (North) $110 78
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-35S (South) $75 73
Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-35 $90 68
DieHard Gold 33135 (South) $110 64

Group 75
Duralast Gold 75-DLG $89 75
Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-75 $100 75
AutoCraft Titanium 75-3 $85 74
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-75N (North) $75 73
CR Best Buy EverStart Maxx-75S (South) $75 73
DieHard Gold 33075 (North) $110 72
DieHard Gold 33175 (South) $110 69
CR Best Buy Kirkland Signature 12869 $60 68
NAPA Select 84 8475 $90 68

Die Hard At Sears and Kmart only.
Duralast At AutoZone only.
Kirkland At Costco only.
NAPA At NAPA only.
Autocraft At Advance Auto Parts only.
EverStart At Wal-Mart only.

Brian R. · 03-06-2009, 07:19 PM

Replace Accessory Belts on 5VZ-FE V6

To remove them, cut them off. To install and adjust tension on new belts work from engine forward, alternator, A/C, then P/S:

Alternator - Pivot bolt is on top, tensioner is on bottom middle of alternator facing driver's side wheel well. Tension lock nut is in front on bottom. Both pivot bolt and lock nut must be loosened to move alternator with tensioner. Loosen tensioner/install belt/tighten tensioner.
Tighten:
Pivot bolt 38 ft-lbs
Lock nut 25 ft-lbs

A/C unit has idler pulley. Remove the skid plate to gain access from bottom. Loosen idler pulley lock nut (center of pulley) and move pulley in with adjusting bolt (driver's side bottom). Tighten idler pulley lock nut to 22 in-lbs/install drive belt/adjust belt tension.
Tighten:
Pulley lock nut 29 ft-lbs

Install skid plate

Power steering unit:
Same description as alternator except facing passenger side. You can see the P/S tensioning unit from the top. You have to turn the pully to get access to pivot bolt.
Tighten:
Pivot bolt 32 ft-lbs
Lock nut 32 ft-lbs

Brian R. · 05-25-2011, 10:20 AM

What wheels will fit my car?

See the following site:
http://www.vehicle-bolt-pattern.com/

Brian R. · 06-04-2011, 10:03 PM

Q: How should I flush my engine oil system?

A: To flush the engine, before the oil change drain a quart of oil out and replace it with a quart of transmission fluid, and drive it without stressing it for a couple of hours, maybe longer. Drain the oil and change the filter.

Many people recommend Seafoam for flushing, but I don't believe in anything but tranny fluid. ATF is very close to motor oil in composition, but has a really high detergent content. More than one old mechanic recommended tranny fluid to me and I trust them explicitly. They know more about engines than I ever will.

I would seriously recommend against using solvent type flushes. Solvent flushes are only good for varnish, not sludge or other hard deposits. They can dissolve sticky deposits which hold other deposits in place. If the released deposits are not soluble in the solvent, they will be loose to cause trouble by blocking oil passages. This can kill your engine really fast. This is the advantage of using transmission fluid. It is designed to suspend deposits with a detergent additive which should break up particles before they can stick somewhere bad.

If this doesn't work, I would try AutoRX which is specifically designed to dissolve sludge. You use it as directed on the bottle. AutoRX is not a solvent, but is a type of oil which softens sludge and allows the oil to break it up. Read about it at the above link.

Brian R. · 07-14-2011, 07:19 AM

Power Steering Fluid Loss in 2nd Gen 4Runners

Q: What could cause a sigificant loss of power steering fluid and smoke in the exhaust of my '91 4Runner?

A: Hey I have a 1991 4Runner V6 and I had constant low steering oil but no visible leaks. I'd get intermittent white smoke blowing out the exhaust from time to time, too. Totally baffling problem. But I found the solution. There's a vacuum sensor (switch) on the housing of the steering pump that bumps up the RPMs when you are steering hard at low RPM. If the rubber membrane inside that sensor gets ruptured then steering oil will get sucked up from the steering system into the intake manifold and will burn off the oil. That's the white smoke.

I went down to the Toyota dealer and told them about my problem and they sold me the sensor (About $100) and I switched it out. Now there's no more leak and no more white smoke. They said at Toyota that it was a common problem with about 1990-1994 4Runners.

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