CV Boot questions. 94 Camry 4 Cyl

[ice745]

Recently (3 months ago) I noticed my right CV Boot was torn. The shop told me it was impractical to just replace the boot, and my searches on these forums support that. However, I only had them only replace the right side (the torn one) since they charged me $320 for it.

The problem is as I was inspecting my car today while washing it, I can see a creased crack starting to form on the left CV Boot. It looks like it may open soon; however, as of now it's still sealed.

I definitely do not have another $300 to spend. What is my best option?

Can I find a shop that will just replace the boot for less money, since it's not broken yet. Or is the labor going to be about the same anyway?

Should I just continue to drive on it until it does split? Or will that lead to even more expensive problems?

I am more electrically inclined than mechanically. And I do not have an impact wrench. Is replacing the part something I can do myself to save on labor?

[Mike Gerber]

You should be OK just replacing the boot now, before it carcks and the grease is thrown out of it. I would call around to shops in your area for prices to just replace the boot. $320 to replace the axle with a rebuilt one seems about $100 too high in my opinion. You might as well ask for a price on that at the same time.

Mike

[ice745]

Thanks for your reply. I was thinking that was a little expensive too. While I was searching I saw somebody got a reman. axle done at Pep Boys for $180.

For my bill, it was $140 for the rebuilt axle, $92 for labor, $70 for a wheel alignment, and $20 for "service supplies."

It makes sense to me that I'd need an alignment if they were replacing the axle. I'm not really as informed as I should be on service prices, I usually just pay what they say I need to (I know, not smart). So I'm not sure what in that was overpriced.

[Brian R.]

The wheel alignment is not necessary when replacing an axle or CV boot. There are split boots available to install without removing the axle. See if you can get an opinion on their quality before installing one.

[Mike Gerber]

As Brian said, you don't need the wheel alignment after replacing the axle and the $140 for the rebuilt axle is also a bit high. The $20 for the "service supplies" is a total scam IMHO. I would suggest you find another repair shop.

Mike

[RIP]

If you don't hear any clicking when making turns or clunking/jerking when accelerating or decelerating meaning the cv joint is not damaged, a split boot is a great option. There is a car sitting in my driveway that has split boots on both outboard cv joints. I installed both in a college dorm parking lot 7-8 years ago and they are doing just fine. I have installed several others over the years and none have come back on me. The key to it is thoroughly cleaning the CV joint before installing the boot to avoid future damage to the joint. Road grime enters the joint via the crack in the boot. The grime destroys the joint. Some mechanics say the grime can't be cleaned from the joint with the axle on the car. I've never removed the axle saving big bucks in the process. How? Jack the front up on jack stands. Remove the old boot, scoop out whatever grease you can, spray the joint area with a degreaser several times making sure you get in all the cavities. Use the red extention spray tube that comes with most spray cans. Brush out remaining grease using acid brushes between sprays. Spray the joint with compressed air to get all the degreaser out. I use the spray cans you get at Radio Shack. Force new grease into the joint. If you think it's full pack it somemore. Finally install the split boot per it's directions. The key is taking the time to thoroughly clean the joint then getting the degreaser out. Don't get in a hurry. My first one took me two hours. Now it takes me less than an hour.

Split boot - $15
Degreaser - $3
Brushes - $3
Can of compressed air - $4
Barrow the jackstands
The smile on your face knowing your wallet is still fat - priceless.

[Brian R.]

If the boot is not cracked through and the boot is still whole, then you can get by without cleaning the joint. See if the grease looks clean or is there grit or moisture in there.

[ice745]

I was considering the split boot, but I read that they leak a lot and require occasional regreasing. However, this was from sites that seemed to be against the split boot idea; and the info seemed more to be heresay rather than from actual tests.

RIP says he has had them in for about 8 years, and they're doing just fine. During those 8 years, have they required any regreasing aside from the initial install?

Also, there seems to be two types, a glued seam, and a bolted type. It seems the glued type performs better if it's installed correctly. Does anyone have any input on that?

The way I see it is if I can spend $20 and it'll last a few years, that's awesome. But if it doesn't work, then I'm really not any worse off; so I think it's worth a shot.

[RIP]

Originally Posted by ice745

RIP says he has had them in for about 8 years, and they're doing just fine. During those 8 years, have they required any regreasing aside from the initial install?

Also, there seems to be two types, a glued seam, and a bolted type. It seems the glued type performs better if it's installed correctly. Does anyone have any input on that?

- No regreasing needed.
- I've used both and both will last. The glued type are easier to install though a bit more tedious as you have to get them positioned just right for the glue to set up and seal the boot correctly. The advantage is there's no tiny screws and nuts to mess with. Thinking on it, since this may be your first I'd go with the screw/nut type. More forgiving. My first was a glued type. I screwed it up and had to buy another.

Again, only use the split boots if the cv joint doesn't show signs of damage.

[jdmccright]

I've used the split boots as well. What I like to do is run a bead of oil resistant sealant along the split to keep it together as well as the little nuts/bolts...extra peace of mind. You may have to special order them from PepBoys but they aren't expensive, $15-20 each. You probably only need the outer boot.

As mentioned before, if there's no split yet then no need to clean and re-grease unless it is looking dry in there once you open it up. If you do, don't be stingy with the grease.

Good luck!

[ice745]

Looking at the car and at the service manual. It seems the "Lower Arm" may be a safe spot to put the jack stand to make the axle parallel to the ground. Does that seem about right?

Also, while jacking the car up to do the job, one of my lug nuts got stuck again. It came about 1/4" out, then just got jammed and didn't want to go back in or out. Last time I forced one of them I wound up flattening the threads. The bolt is all rusted, so I'm just going to have them replace it.

And the car is back at that shop now anyway, because they didn't put a clamp on the larger end of the inner CV Boot when they did the axle, and all the grease was all over my engine. I'm so frustrated right now, lol, I'm not even sure I want to finish the quick boot job, but maybe if they fix that lug I'll persevere.

Final Edit:
Well, I'm not sure if anyone is still following this thread. But I am done. I am so angry, I can not do this job. I finally got the car back, they fixed the axle that they did in June, and they charged me $60 to fix that lug nut. I get the car home and go to take the wheel off again, and this time with using a TIRE IRON and hand force, I managed to snap the lug bolt clean in half. I didn't even twist hard. I'm just going to drive around with 4/5 of the bolts, because I don't have the money to keep putting into this. I really should've just went and got the axle replaced to begin with.

I just want to clarify though, I am not angry at all with you guys, or your advice. I am angry with myself and this car repair shop.