Ignition Problem, 97 Camry 4cyl

[dannyv23]

Hello Everyone,
I have a problem thats been bothering me for the better part of the day. My positive battery post was corroded so I went by Autozone and picked up 2 new ones to replace them both since the negative one was also beginning to show signs of corrosion. The new ones are brass because thats all they had (if that makes any difference).

So after I replace them and put them back on I go to try and start the car and get a weak turnover then a clicking sound. So I jump start the car and it starts fine, no problems. I leave it running for about 20 minutes to charge it since thats what most people recommend after getting a jump start. When I go to turn it off and turn it back on again the same thing happens.

For example, normally it sounds like vrrr-vrrr-VROOM (the VROOM is when it finally turns over and starts)

But now all I get is vrr-vr-click-click-click...(the clicking reminds me almost of those torque guns that they use to take the lugs off your tires at tire shops, that rapid clicking when its already tight)

So I jump it again and it starts fine once again, and this time I decide to just drive around for 30 minutes to really get a good charge on it. I take it on the freeway for a bit, up and down streets, etc.

When I get home and turn it off then try to turn it on, same exact thing!

Now I'm convinced something else has to be wrong with it, where do I begin?

Could it be the alternator not recharging the battery while driving? The ignition coil? Bad battery? Me going from metal to brass terminals??

It was already late when I got back from driving around so I decided to just have at it tomorrow early since I don't have to go to work.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you.

[Mike Gerber]

It's most likely either the battery itself or the charging system. How old is the battery? Did you test the battery and charging system? There are auto parts stores that will check both for free on a running car, if you bring it to them. Call around to auto parts stores in your area and ask if they offer this free service. Just don't shut the car off when you get there. You could do a simple test yourself at home (although not as thorough as the ones the auto parts stores do) if you have a digital volt/ohmeter. Do you have access to one?

Mike

[jdmccright]

First guess would be an old battery. Disconnect the negative terminal and test it with a voltmeter. If it is below ~10 volts, you'll have a hard time starting. Then beg/borrow/buy a good battery charger and charge it overnight. If it takes a charge, it should be back up to ~12.5 volts. If it doesn't recharge, then replace it. Have a parts store load-test the battery.

Next possibility is the alternator. Remove it and have a parts store test it for output. If it is bad the battery will continue to start the car until the voltage falls below what is needed.

Finally, if the battery terminals were corroded then it is very possible that the cables are as well. They will look swollen or feel stiff...bending them will likely break the individual wires. Cutting into the insulation, you'll see wires that aren't shiny copper...they'll be dull, discolored and have greenish and/or white deposits inside.

Hope this helps!

[dannyv23]

I didn't test the battery or charging system. I figured that leaving it on and driving it around for about an hour would've done the trick. After I parked it and it didn't come back on I simply decided to call it a night.

I'll see if i can find my voltimeter since I just moved and try to test the battery. Theres a mechanics shop right down the street so maybe they will be nice and charge the battery for me if I ask.

Thanks for your suggestions guys, keep them coming :-)

[jdmccright]

Well if 1) the battery isn't taking a charge, or 2) the alternator isn't putting out, then the external charger will help determine which is the culprit.

If you find your multimeter, test the voltage at the battery terminals with the NEG cable disconnected and then with it running (if possible...a good charger can usually give you a boost). If the voltage is up around 14V then it is likely the battery or a poor connection.

A good charge cycle can take overnight at slow amps feed, but a faster charge will probably at least tell you if the battery is charging at all. In general, any battery over 4 years is likely shot or close. Find the receipt , go back to the store you bought it and get a prorated refund on a new one. No receipt? They'll use the manufactured stamp or sticker to determine the age.

[dannyv23]

Well I found the multimeter and tested the battery. It has 12.4 volts running through it.

I also maybe misspoke earlier when I described the sound the car makes now. Its really more clicking than anything. The engine never really tries to turn over. It just sounds like the engine gets the initial spark, tries to sort of begin the startup process then just starts clicking. So since the battery seems to have the appropriate voltage, is the alternator my next plan of action?

[RIP]

Hmm. The car is starting fine before the cable end change (I assume). You change the battery cable end clamps. Now all you get for the most part is a click. Hmm!

The screw on clamps you bought are a nutorious bad choice. Since you apparently cut off the compression fit one piece cables that came with the car, I'd recommend you fork out the bucks for another set of original OEM battery cables.

If you're concerned about the battery have it charged then have them perform a load test.

[dannyv23]

Well I didn't cut off any of the cables that came with the car so I figured thats how it came. I got the car used so I can't vouch for anything that happened about 100,000 miles ago.

The battery cables that it had installed were the kind where you can take off a nut and remove just the actual post piece then get another one, tighten the nut and replace it back on the battery.

[JOET/CAMRY]

Originally Posted by dannyv23

Well I found the multimeter and tested the battery. It has 12.4 volts running through it.

Check the voltage at the battery when the car is running. If it tests around 14 volts than the alternator is fine.

JOET/CAMRY

[dannyv23]

Update: Well I went to Autozone for them to run some tests on my battery. It seems like the battery was just bad because when I would turn the key the voltage would drop down way low. They tried to put it on the charger but it smelled horrible, kind of sulfur-ish so I decided to just get a new one.

On the positive side, when he looked up when I bought the battery, it was 34 months ago. Luckily the Duralast Gold has a 36 month free replacement warranty.

So I dropped the new battery in and turned the key, effortless start.

Seems like everything may be well now. I'll still test the battery tomorrow with the car running to see if it gives me the correct voltage so I can sleep comfortable knowing that the alternator works fine.