is the 90 camrys auto picky on ATF, drives rough.

[94tegRS]

alright, I have a 90 camry with the V6, auto transmission. bought it with 97k on it and when i was doing all the tune up type stuff I swapped the trans filter and fluid. and it still shifted/cruised like normal.

now it has 125k on it and I just replaced the timing belt, water pump, and changed the fluids and while I saw at it, I figured since it was so cheap, Is swap the trans filter/fluid again. I know I used a cheaper brand of ATF last time, but not sure what brand(I think i remember valvolinge high mileage atf, if it exists), this time I got shell brand dexron III(says compatible in transmissions requiring dexron II) and my book says dexron II.

when you put it in drive, it feels maybe a tiny bit rougher than usual, maybe its just in my head though. when you give it gas, it takes off like normal, and shifts like normal up to a point. when you hit ~40MPH, it feels as if it is slipping out of gear for a split second and then back into drive and the car jerks around, or its the torque converter trying to lock up and it keeps failing. not sure. but it doesnt do it below 40. and it only does it when trying to cruise above 40. if I am deep in the accelerator trying to get to a speed past 40, it doesnt do it til I hit my cruising speed. also if I floor it and let it rev out until it shifts, it shifts normal. I havent let 2nd run out though because 1st is 35, and 2nd is over the speed limits around here by a long shot if I run that gear out.

do you think that swapping in a different fluid will fix the problem?

[Mike Gerber]

Start with the simple things. Check the fluid level again. Toyota transmissions can be sensitive to the fluid level. A bit over the full line can sometimes cause problems.

Mike

[jdmccright]

I personally wouldn't call Valvoline High Mileage ATF "cheap stuff"...I use it exclusively in all my cars and have never had a tranny failure save for a shift solenoid in the Jimmy. But ask 20 people in here which one's the best and you'll get maybe 15 different answers. Each is comfortable with what they choose. A '90 Cam with only 125k? Must've been a gramma car...hope it was well cared for. Good find mi amigo!

In general, any ATF that meets the DEXRON spec should be fine with your car. I haven't read of any issues stemming from switching brands or from "high mileage" to regular types, but I would hazard to guess that the hi-mile type may be just a bit more viscous and thus allowing better sealing around older gaskets, o-rings, etc, inside the tranny. And as Mr. Gerber said, overfilling can cause erratic operation. If you filled it while the car was up on blocks or otherwise not level, then definitely check again and readjust the level.

Another thought could be the tranny filter bought may not be an exact fit, causing a leak at the filter-to-valve body gasket. I've had that issue with my '92 where a dimple in the filter to clear a bolt head wasn't located right...had to use a punch tool to massage it.

There are service manuals stickied at the top of the forum. Find one for your car and go through the road test troubleshooting section. Also see if there are any stored trouble codes. Some codes are stored but don't illuminate the CEL right away. Hope this helps!

[94tegRS]

alright, thanks for the replies.

I went to vegas for the weekend, and just got back. Ill doublecheck the fluid tomorrow. and about the filter, its the same fram filter kit as I used last time. I didnt bust out the tape measure or anything but it looked identical as well. so the leak you would be referring to, would be the little 1x1 inch square cork gasket, if I find an incorrect fluid level and then it still has problems, ill take the pan off again and check to make sure the filter bolts up nicely.

also, on the ATF, I am just guessing I used cheap stuff because thats my style. I use rotella in the bikes, I did use mobil 1 full synthetic when i had my high revving hondas but now use supertech or whatevers cheap in my old pos truck and accord. I remember though that I think I used the valvoline, cant be sure.

also, if you remember, there is a tab on the filter that gets bent to retain a wire that runs to a plug just to the back of the filter, I removed it to get at the tab on the filter better? I did plug it back in, maybe it doesnt have a good connection? what exactly is that sensor/switch or whatever it is, whats it for?

Ill let you know what happens.

[DFBonnett]

OP, Before you dig too deep into a trans issue, you might want to verify it is not actually an engine problem such as a timing issue or vac leak. You mentioned that this manifested itself after a TB change. In you place I'd double check the timing and verify that one of those 19 year old vac hoses hasn't split.
Just a WAG.
FWIW
YMMV

[jdmccright]

Point well taken DFB. Incorrect timing would show up reported as poor acceleration, rough idle, and poor fuel economy. There is a trick to TB replacement not specifically mentioned in the repair manuals...marking the old belt and sprockets for reinstallation of the OLD belt. It doesn't mention to transfer the marks to the new belt. Otherwise, the belt will go on and everything looks taut until the crank is turned, the slack is taken up and the cam and crank end up out of sync.

If this is the case, then you'll have to slip the crankshaft counterclockwise by one tooth or more to get it and the cam to sync up once the slack is gone. But in order to maintain the current wear pattern on the mating valvetrain surfaces, rotating the crank backwards (and especially the camshaft) is not advised. Remove the crank pulley and lower cover, loosen the tensioner, rotate the crank clockwise until about 20° BTDC (I'm guessing from memory) and reset the timing belt with the tensioner still loose and adjustable. Turn the crank by hand until you see all slack removed and the cam just begins to turn. Then recheck the timing of both. They should be very close if not exactly in sync...I think mine was within 1-2° of each other. If not, try another crank position.

I had to do this firsthand so it can be frustrating, especially in those tight confines. But eventually you'll find the optimum setting. I can't recall how bad the car ran when out-of-sync, but it was definitely sluggish, rougher idle, and my fuel economy was down from 27.2 to 25.0.

I do know of the wire you're talking about. The clip on the filter does hold it quite good, but I've been able to unclip it and slip the filter in & out without disconecting it. I don't know if the connector is sealed from tranny fluid, but if so there could be fluid residue in the connector.

Can't say which of the two would be easier to check, so good luck!

[94tegRS]

about the timing belt, when I did it, after I installed the tensioner(which is a huge PITA by the way, I HATE that design, the style of the ones in my hondas, and even on my dirtbikes/quads is a way better design as far as installation goes, not sure about actual operation, but I hated that thing, my c clamp BARELY opened far enough, and I only had a drillbit that was a little too big, and one too small, and the first time it broke pulling it out so I had to start over)

anyways, after I installed the tensioner and pulled the pin, I turned the crankshaft over probably 4 times to get the cam gear marks back to the top, put the crankshaft exactly on zero, then checked the position of the cam gear marks, and they were not EXACT, but I know if I was to move the camshaft one full tooth it would be way farther from the mark where it sits. and it actually idles perfect, and if the accelerator is to the floor, it runs smooth as butter all the way to the point it shifts, then goes smooth as butter again til I attempt to just cruise.

I know the torque converter lockup was messed up. out on my mustang once, and it felt similar but only shook for a second or two and then didnt do it anymore, like it only did it as it was locking up.

[94tegRS]

alright, I need to know hoe exactly to check it. I have the engine running, and hold the brake while I run the selector through the gears. P-R-N-D-2-1-2-D-N-R-P and leave it running in park, then pull dipstick, wipe it clean, insert dipstick and seat it all the way, pull it out again and check the level. and cold I would imagine being right when the cars started (I start it, let it idle for maybe 15-20 seconds just to get the oil pumped throroughly through the engine, then do the P-R-N.....) and hot would be when I come back from a trip to the store.

because I checked it the other day when I got back from a maybe 25 minute drive, just cruising between 25-40 with 1 2 mile stretch at 65. I checked it and it was pretty far above the hot-full line.

so this morning, I pulled the plug and held it at the threads tipping it to the side to let out some fluid, I dont think I even let out 1/4 a quart, if even 1/8 a quart. then I started the car, let it idle for a second then did the shifting/checking and it was JUST below the cold low line? does it really only take the tiniest amount of fluid to make a big jump on the dipstick. book says 1 pint is from low line to high line. not sure what a pint was, thought it was about a quart, but I guess I better go check. it did do WAY better today though, still jerked around a few times, but nothing like the other day.