Brake Squeal

[metomwhou]

So about two weeks ago I changed out my rear rotors and pads, and front pads. I tried to change the front rotors but couldn’t get them off so I’ll have to try that at the car shop soon. For now the fronts have new pads/old rotors. I’ve got the manual but it doesn’t seem to detail the front removal.

The inside right rear pad was metal to metal and had just begun to scrape the day or two before I changed them out so that rotor was toast. The caliper looked ok, no different from the other three so I think its good to go. Anyway, after a few days the new brakes are squealing. I used raybestos pads. They came with what looked like a shim already installed and the ones that came off my old brakes wouldn’t fit over it so I just left them off. I honestly can’t tell if the squealing is coming from the front or rear, I’m thinking the rear though. Any ideas on how to make them quiet? Its only after the first few seconds of braking, then it goes away.

I appreciate any help with the squealing issue. I’ve also searched on the front rotor removal too, not a lot of good info on that one. I think I might do up a how to when I finally get mine done. Oh, any tips on bleeding the brake lines? Might as well tackle that too while I’m at it.
Thanks,
Tom

[atfdmike]

Did your new pads come with the anti squeal dressing that you put on the back of the pad where it contacts the piston or slider? If not, you may want to pick up a can of it...it comes as a spray from prestolite, or small packages that most parts stores carry. It eliminates vibrations from the pads hanging in limbo in most cases.
In bleeding, rule of thumb is start with brake farthest from master cylinder and work towards the nearest. Always better to bleed all the old fluid from the system by refilling with new until new fluid shows up at bleeder.
It sounds like the front rotor is part of the hub assembly so you have to remove the hub to get the rotor off. One guys opinion.

[metomwhou]

These pads didn't come with anything like that. I'll take a look out in town, I'm not sure what to ask for, I'm in Germany so the language barrier kinda sucks. The autoshop on base blows, basically you have to order anything you need, all they carry is oil and filters.

[metomwhou]

Well I tried to take off my front rotors today and failed again. The pictures show how far I got. I can’t figure out how to remove that split washer looking thing in the last picture. I tried banging on it with a screwdriver and hammer but it never budged. Is there a special tool that’s needed? If so where can I get one, remember I’m overseas.
Thanks for looking,
Tom

[atfdmike]

I have not done one personally like yours, but you need expanding snap ring pliers OR what you could cobble may be a pair of needle nose pliers (duck bill would be great) that you can use in reverse to open up the C clip. Once that is off you still will need a 4 wheel drive wrench (looks like socket with notches) to get the next nut off. I have removed these in a pinch using a hammer and small punch to loosen it . Remember that you will be dealing with bearings here so get a feel for how much pressure it takes to turn the rotor now before removal, and how much endplay there is now. Really should be no play, but plan on repacking inner and outer bearings while doing this job. Usually you can tighten back up snug and then back off just a touch before locking it in. Sorry cannot be more help, maybe someone will read this and pitch in that has done it. Been kinda slow around here.
One guys opinion.

[metomwhou]

Thanks man, its the 4wheel drive wrench or whatever its called that I need. I can't seem to find a reference for one. I tried banging on that split nut for a while, just ended up breaking my screw driver. The autoshop here doesn't have what I need and suggested I go to the dealer, but I really don't want to pay euro prices for what should only take me about two hours or so. including packing the bearings.

[atfdmike]

Hi, I can't post a picture, but it is listed as a 32 mm Locknut Socket. It has two "teeth", one opposite the other that fit into the lockring. I will try to add an ad so you at least have an idea what it is. Pretty expensive, but might be available used????


Locknut Socket for Isuzu / Rodeo / Amigo - 32mm
by Spx Corporation/otc



Description
Locknut Socket - 32mm 1988-newer Isuzu Trooper, Rodeo, Amigo and pickup; 1989-newer Honda Passport, Jeep J20 pickups with Dana 60 axle. Weight: 1 lb., 5 oz.


Price
$33.25

[metomwhou]

I think my problem may have been that I didn't remove the three screws that hold the retaining ring. I forgot all about those. Either way, I need to get that socket and some bearing grease before I try attacking it again. Thanks for the link to the socket.
Tom

[metomwhou]

Well the squealing brakes went away, guess they just needed a few miles to seat properly. I drove it all winter and didn't have any problems. Now that spring is here, I'm eventually gonna replace the front rotors since I have the new ones already.

Reckon I should buy new pads or just use the ones I replaced in October?

[atfdmike]

Hi again, it is pretty common now to replace pads and not resurface the rotor if it looks OK. Going the way you want to, I suppose if the pads are worn evenly and square to backing pad and the contact surface is smooth and not grooved, etc; it could work. I just want to ask why change the rotors now, if all is working? Are you getting pulsations or noises that make you think they need to be done?

[metomwhou]

Hey Mike,
You guessed right, I am getting pulsating, which is what prompted me to get new rotors last year. The auto shop on base does not turn rotors and it was actually cheaper to order new ones than have them turned out in town. I guess I'll only know if the pads are still good once I start the rotor swap.
Thanks for your info, btw!
Tom