$800.00 Front end allignment

[CartoonII]

I took my 98 Windstar for a front-end allignment the other day. They stated that my upper strut mounts prevent them from properly alligning my (camber?? I forget) They said that I need a strut mount kit for each side. $300.00 PER Side + Labour !!! TOTAL BILL= $790.00 Yes folks for a front end allignment. Original cost= $49.99 Yes, have you driven a Ford lately!! These guys are absolutely genious. I told them to forget it. So for the lifetime of my Ford Windstar I WILL NEVER HAVE PROPERLY A ALLIGNED FRONT END. I'am money ahead if I just wear out my tires prematurely. I'd never recover the cost.

Has anyone ever heard of anything so absurd?
Does anyone have any experience in this area? Suggestions?

Thank you
CartoonII

[islandguy1969]

were they saying the upper strut mounts are bad? if not, im trying to figure out what the hell the strut mounts has to do with your camber adjustment. sounds like u sniffed out their highway robbery.

[rodeo02]

Enlarging the tower mount holes in the strut towers to allow for 'adjustability', adding shims or washers to the mounts, or changing out the strut mounts all together, is how caster/camber is adjusted on most modern FWD vehicles. This isn't just a Ford thing (for once ! ). I would NOT touch the 'alignment' on a FWD vehicle unless severe tire wear tells you you need to, or the front-end was apart for major service.
G/luck
Joel

[busboy4]

Hi
I have a '96 with 130000 miles. Twice when getting a "quick" alignment they have wanted to do what you are talking about. I have always said no. I have never trashed any tires and have only occasionally dealt with some pull. I think what they do is drill out the spot welds on the strut mounting plates which gives them some play.

[LeSabre97mint]

Originally Posted by busboy4

Hi
I have a '96 with 130000 miles. Twice when getting a "quick" alignment they have wanted to do what you are talking about. I have always said no. I have never trashed any tires and have only occasionally dealt with some pull. I think what they do is drill out the spot welds on the strut mounting plates which gives them some play.

Hay Busboy4

You don't have to drill the welds out. If you have an air chissel you can pop them. Just slide the point inbetween the two plates and pop... pop pop....

Dan

[CartoonII]

Thanks guys. Nice to know that I am not the only guy in this predicament. I am experiencing tire wear but not enough to justify this drastic operation.
CartoonII

[floridatgp]

Originally Posted by CartoonII

Thanks guys. Nice to know that I am not the only guy in this predicament. I am experiencing tire wear but not enough to justify this drastic operation.
CartoonII

just a side note, my 96 has 143000, I just replace the front struts, and the back shocks had 70,000, they were bad too, van handles a whole lot better....

[LeSabre97mint]

Floridatgp

What brand of shocks and struts did you put on? I've got around 175,000 with orginal structs and shocks. They're starting to bounce more and more. I'm looking for a smooth ride.

Dan

[12Ounce]

On a Windstar, caster and camber should never be a cause for concern. Reason being that the "geometry" of the suspension is large ... i.e., the mounting points of the suspension are several inches apart, making an "adjustment" at the top of the strut, or anywhere else, totally unneeded. Of course, there can be caster/camber issues if the van has been in a severe accident, or if suspension components are loose or exceptionally worn.

That leaves "toe-in", both front and rear, as being the only adjustable alignment component that we should concern ourselves with. Front toe-in is controlled by the front tie rod ends. The tie rod is threaded and there are wrench flats provided. "Toe-in" is added, or subtracted, by twisting the tie rod. A lock nut is provided to make things secure after adjustments.

If your front tires are wearing on the inner or outer edges, you need adjustments made on these tie-rod ends. The same is true if your steering wheel is "off center" as you drive straight ahead.

Bring your vehicle to a slow straight-ahead stop in a flat parking lot (or other flat surface). Use only parking brake to stop vehicle. Shut engine down and exit vehicle without disturbing steering wheel. You can now make some pretty good inspections of the toe-in alignment by eye-sighting along the front wheels toward the rear ... and vice versa. Anything "way out of bounds" will be obvious during such an inspection ... and will be a good info to inquire about with your alignment shop. Of course, if you are a skilled DIY'r you may make adjustments on your own ... just be careful.

[wiswind]

I installed Monroe "Sensatrak" shocks on the rear of my '96. The shocks are NOT mounted inside the coil springs. The bolts were a bit of a job to break free....so I would recommend getting some "PB Blaster" and spraying them and letting them soak for about 1 hour.

I have not changed the front struts yet.

[98er]

I had the same crap from an alignment house for my 98. Camber needed adjusting and the spot welds needed to be drilled or popped. This requires that you remove the fascia between the windshield and hood. That includes the wiper motor. Ford makes sure that those struts stay put. You think one weld would do. I drilled them and returned for the $49 special. They are now at their limits so special plates will be required next. Typical of today's cars.
Marc/Atlanta

[floridatgp]

I purchased motorcraft struts from ebay, $23 shocks from autozone on rear. Autozone had some cheaper ones, the price jumped to $50 after the $23.