Electric Supercharger!!!!!!omg...

[Vizzion]

Man ya'll really need to listen to these guys that are telling ya'll the truth
about these fake wanna be turbos that people are trying to sell. Which is what I told a young friend about them being B.S. But he figured he would just try it just to see if they really worked. The product he got looks like the one that guy posts on his website for $300.00 man that a bunch of B.S The whole unit probably is worth a plastic trash can you buy at your local Wal-mart. Well any who my friend bought it and tried it and there is no notice what so ever of gains. ANd no we didn't have it dynoed, where not that stupid to waste money on B.S plastic that we know has no gains what so ever. TO finish it of a week later he noticed a burnt's plastic smell and smoke coming from under the hood and found that the heat coming from the headers had warped and burnt the housing of this state of the art BLower Ha ha ha what a bunch of B.S man and the person to believe the so called power gains is the dumb one to begin with. By the way I'd like to see these so called (fabricated) Dyno Sheets of these gains and on what cars.


To any of those that are questioning these posser wannabe's don't believe them, it's all talk, $300 bucks come on where did ya'll get plastic that's worth that much.

[94tegRS]

Originally Posted by spdracr87

u whould be better off if u want to build soem thng worht a danm to take and make a mister line with a water tank that feeds lill mist in as vaiper and have a god fan unit like that to spin it in lill better and mix with the air. and as for them falling abotu build a filter. hell make a cool air intake system for your ranger thats a big kick ass deal with a mister in it. makes yoru engine sound storng and u can move air lill better with out mister and fan u get maybe 10 hp out of it but with u get. maybe 15-25. depending on how u make it qand time it. well yeah thats compleatly differnt but those aint that good not the cheap ones any ways. just do as i say on that part if u want real power and most of all response it will snap your head in the small eninge that rangers have. or u can get a 5.0 out of a mustang liek i have been thinkign of buildign up one. well after im done with my other one im working on lol. im a crazy 18 year old that has crazy ideas that normally work hehe. but i know this one does i have done it for many of my freind and they pay me alot of money. sure there for ricers but these guys race every weekend and pay me alot of there moeny the make for husseling ppl cuz i hide the misters fo rhtem hehe. just think how u whould feal to pull up next to a 88 civc hatch back and look at it with no real mods to c ehe except cool air intake and exhaust hehe , then u get hosed it slik mahaha

am I the only one that is VERY confused, suck mist into your engine??? thats good?

[overdriveracer]

looking at making your own. Using a hairblow dryer motor and a small fan. friend did that and it works, only at higher RPM. but it works.

[94tegRS]

ok, at higher rpms your engine need so much MORE air then it does at low RPMS, and I am willing to put lots of money down on the fact that a hairdryer motor with fan blades on it aint gonna keep up with the already incoming air.

[Hypsi87]

WOW what will they think of next. what the hell is this wanna be turbo??? There is no way that an eletric motor that ran on a 12volt automotive eletrical systemwould run an inpeller fast enough to make boost. In order to make boost that means you have to overcome the vacume that your motor creates. when you floor you gas pedal your vac. goes to 0 well that is 14.7 PSI of ambient air that is going thourgh your intake, because the outside air pressure is 14.7PSI. Now I don't know how fast this thing spins the impeller but I know my turbo has to spin 150,000 RPM or more to make 17 PSI. now mabye it might through a little exra air into the intake but rembember this. Boost is accually the measurement of air that you are not using. because the ammout of air going into the inake execeeds the ammout of air that can be shoved into the compression chamber so the air build up and creats pressure otherwise known as boost. Now the water mister thing?? WTF are you talking about. why anyone would inject water into there naturally aspriated motor is beyond me. you don't get any incresse in power. Now on a forced inducted car you could inject water under boost to help take out pre deatonation. but hot water produces steam whitch is really dangrous. thats why I spray alky. to reduce pre deationation. It won't work. and as for the hair dryerthing. it does not work. unless his motor only flows like 9 cfm. any engine would suck the fins right off of that thing. Sorry for the guys tha already know this but it had to be said.

Andy

[zanickzanick]

Seems there is a lot of confusion on whether or not an electric supercharger can work. yes, it is possible. the eRAM is only a 1psi electric supercharger (axial flow) and has plenty of power to do the task. If you understand how they work, and the power requirements to make 1psi at about 2-400cfm, you will see that it is more than possible. it is being done today and has been for over 7 years now

There are a ton of idiots out there selling boat vent fans. There are others, including the colored squirrel cage fans. If they dont pull a min of 50amps, they will not work. 13amps, 30 amps, will not cut it. it takes power to make power. we are not talking 5-15psi, we are only talking 1psi and 5% gains. 5% for $300 is a good bang for the buck, and we should know. we are racers and have done it all. from throttle bodies to complete engine displacement changes, the all gain HP in different degrees. The eRAM was equal to the best value of all the mods we have done on our race cars.

If you forget all the bogus products out there that do not work, and have no business of working for many reasons, you will see that the eRAM's concepts are based on solid physics and automotive engineering

Here are the specs.
908cfm (measured on a flow bench)
13.5volts/ 50-55 amps
3.5lbs of thrust (shown on the video)
24,000rpm
1psi net change in intake pressure with use of the eRAM on WOT
5% hp gains as seen on many cars , measured by a rear wheel (or front wheel ) dyno jet 248e.
Use by a pro racing team for over 4 years, with no issues. On several club racer's cars that have been dynoed and are also used on the street.

dont confuse the flow rating of a carburetor , with the requirements of an engine. its related to its size, and generally, a 5 liter engine will draw close to 500cfm at 6000rpm. you can divde this for your engines output.

1hp motors can exist in the size that we are using. they are expensive and made to Military type specs. (rare earth magnets, all cnc machined aluminum parts, etc) The eRAM works only at WOT, so the duty cyle is pretty low, so we can hit the motor hard for short durations. at a track like laguna, even a top driver will only be on the WOT for 40 seconds a lap, on a 1:40 second lap. drag racing only takes less than 15-16 seconds , (or less!)

The 10hp gains we got on several porsche 911s , on top of the 200hp rear wheel that we tested , was real and done by an independent dyno shop, and club racer!

If you have any questions, I would be happy to address them.

Mark Kibort
eRACING
SpeedGT #19
www.electricsupercharger.com
www.928trackcars.com/kibort/

[Hypsi87]

Originally Posted by zanickzanick

Here are the specs.
908cfm (measured on a flow bench)
13.5volts/ 50-55 amps
3.5lbs of thrust (shown on the video)
24,000rpm
1psi net change in intake pressure with use of the eRAM on WOT
5% hp gains as seen on many cars , measured by a rear wheel (or front wheel ) dyno jet 248e.
Use by a pro racing team for over 4 years, with no issues. On several club racer's cars that have been dynoed and are also used on the street.

What is flowing at 908 CFM??

[zanickzanick]

the eRAM itself flows (produces flow) of 908cfm. however, this is at 0 pressure, and max pressure is just around stall (0cfm) flow.

so, since the operating range of the eRAM on most cars dynoed are in th 200-400cfm range, the slight pressure the eRAM produces accounts for the HP increases. (5% net change in intake pressure was seen by measuring air box vacuum or even vacuum in aftermarket intake tubes.)

WE now have a motor that is a little more expensive and drives the RPMs up to 25,000rpm and increase pressure as well. current is just around 55amps (up from the current 50amps) we may have it as an option ,or standardize on it.

Mark
www.electricsupercharger.com
www.928trackcars.com/kibort

Originally Posted by Hypsi87

What is flowing at 908 CFM??

[zanickzanick]

Yes, andy it is possible with 700+ watts of energy, to match air flow and create slight pressure *(we are only talking about 5% increases here)

Next, water injection has been around for 50 or more years. aircraft engine have had water injection to cool the intake charge and increase mass flow. as the water evaporates, it cools the intake charge. the increased mass flow is mixed with more fuel and more power results. another gain is what you mentioned. to cool the intake charge enough to stop dentonation.

Mk

Originally Posted by Hypsi87

WOW what will they think of next. what the hell is this wanna be turbo??? There is no way that an eletric motor that ran on a 12volt automotive eletrical systemwould run an inpeller fast enough to make boost. In order to make boost that means you have to overcome the vacume that your motor creates. when you floor you gas pedal your vac. goes to 0 well that is 14.7 PSI of ambient air that is going thourgh your intake, because the outside air pressure is 14.7PSI. Now I don't know how fast this thing spins the impeller but I know my turbo has to spin 150,000 RPM or more to make 17 PSI. now mabye it might through a little exra air into the intake but rembember this. Boost is accually the measurement of air that you are not using. because the ammout of air going into the inake execeeds the ammout of air that can be shoved into the compression chamber so the air build up and creats pressure otherwise known as boost. Now the water mister thing?? WTF are you talking about. why anyone would inject water into there naturally aspriated motor is beyond me. you don't get any incresse in power. Now on a forced inducted car you could inject water under boost to help take out pre deatonation. but hot water produces steam whitch is really dangrous. thats why I spray alky. to reduce pre deationation. It won't work. and as for the hair dryerthing. it does not work. unless his motor only flows like 9 cfm. any engine would suck the fins right off of that thing. Sorry for the guys tha already know this but it had to be said.

Andy

[zanickzanick]

New version just went through final bench testing and is now in production.

25,500rpms (increase of around 2000rpms)
current 55 amps
power is over 760watts (input)

expect to see some interesting video showing air flow, pressure, current , voltage drops, RPM optical guages, etc., in the weeks to come on the website.

Mark Kibort
eRACiNG Motorsports

[Hypsi87]

yes I know Water injection has been around on aircraft and other extremr compression engines. water injection will not work on a N/A engine. Unless it was a high compression engine in which the water would have to be on all the time. a N/A engine can not heat up the intake charge enough to evaporate it.

[BIG JIM 54]

Well actually....

These things you see on EBay are wimps! They will probably decrease air flow due to their own restriction.

900 cfm won't do you anything either.

Since I never plan on selling this device I made, I don't mind telling you all about it.

First, these people who say you can't make significant boost even in a Chevy V8 are mistaken I believe. I say "believe" because I actually haven't finished the project yet but all the numbers come together.

Second, why does everyone believe you have to drive an electric motor with only 12 volts just because that's what the car is wired with?

Third, Roots and centrifugal type superchargers use about 45 HP to make say, 150 HP in a car engine. No electric motor you can put in your car is going to produce 45 HP, agreed. So that is out of the question. But turbo compressors can make a lot of boost. Everyone knows that as well. They require RPM to make boost because the exhaust of a car doesn't have a lot of pressure behind it.

But to offset turbo lag, it's advisable to use 1 or 2 small turbos that spoolup quickly. One large turbo is felt to be counter-productive since the spoolup time would be so slow. But it does push a lot of air at a lower RPM ultimately. Just not practical for the street.

Now to my project. I have found a very large turbocharger compressor off a big Detroit Diesel. As it was made, it weights over 50 pounds and has an 11 inch impeller to make boost with. Cutting off the exhaust side, it now weights 19 pounds. Do you all get where I'm going with this?

Yep, I found a 3.8HP, 24 volt electric motor (over 2800 watts). It's only 4"x7". This motor has so much torque it will pull your arm out of it's socket. This is going to be hooked up to the compressor side of the turbo impellar shaft with a Kevlar belt arrangement with various size pulleys that I can put on to vary impeller RPM. Impeller RPM would determine boost levels.

That 3.8HP electric motor only runs at 5000 RPM. But here's how the calculations come out. I can over-drive the motor at 1:4 or 1:5 or more so that big turbo compressor spins at 20-25,000 RPM. At that RPM, that size compressor will make 5-6 pounds of boost in a Chevy 350 at 5000 RPM. I don't know exactly how far I can go with the ratio but I figure maybe 1:10 overdriven. 0 to 20,000 RPM comes in 0.8 seconds so no lag ever.

Still so far, I know you're thinking it's impossible. I'm not done yet. The motor will be powered by 2 small motorcycle batteries in the engine compartment hooked up in series to supply the 24 volts. They will be charged in parallel by the car's alternator. They do nothing but turn on the motor at WOT only. The engine's throttle body will have mounted a small push button off-on switch wired into 2 Ford 60A starter relays that will send power to the electric motor running the turbo impeller when I put my foot in it. Even with 24 volts, it will require 118 amps for a motor to make 3.8HP. That's why the 2 60A relays. I don't think that electric motor will need all of it's 3.8HP to make my target boost level.

I have all the necessary parts except waste gate, plumbing and other stuff I'm sure I'll discover. But it will make for one quick '87 Corvette. And like I said, the numbers are there. I still have to figure injector and fuel pump/regulator size.

I am reasonably sure I can spin that compressor to make 10 pounds of boost by altering the ratio of pulleys. But I'm going to start slow so as not to run into detonation and/or engine destruction. The engine is fresh however.

But just with 6 pounds of boost at 5000 RPM into my slightly modified Chevy 350 TPI engine, I'll be making 550-600 HP! And it will be virtually instant!
No power lose from just driving the forced-induction pump like with a supercharger and no "turbo lag" from an exhaust-driven pump. Best of everything.

My question. Why hasn't someone done this before and why do all the "experts" tell me it can't be done? Am I going to make history?

BIG JIM

[zanickzanick]

big jim,

we actually use the 24volt system at the beginning. its a good idea, except for the extra weight you have to carry around. if you can muster 10psi, it would be worth it. Actually, 5psi, it would be worth it. Now, to get 5psi, I dont care how you do it, but you have to have the power to make 5psi at some CFM. (ie 5.7 liter engine is around 600cfm at 6krpm) This would require about 15 to 20hp. if you look at the power side of that equation, it is 15,000 watts, or 1200amps. take it to 24volts and that is around 600amps. very doable with a set of two good small high current motorcycle batteries. However, look how long it will last between charges. a good motorcycle batter is around 14amp hours. most small car batteries are around 30 to 40 amp hours. roughly, a lb of battery weight for every amp hour is a good rule of thumb.

so, a 600amp shot, will last around 30 seconds before you kill a small battery. (yes, even in series and at 24volts) so, the idea is sound, but the other side of the coin is driving a 3000-5000rpm motor, geared up to massive speeds *(ie 60-80krpm) to get the pressure up. I dont know the flow forms of the truck turbo you speak of, but it shouldnt be that hard to figure out the cfm and pressure generated at what rpm. my first thought , is that a normal size turbo charger would be better.

make no mistake, a ton of pressure is developed by the expanding and pushed exhaust gases by the pistons. the speed of a small high performance turbo is in the 100,000 rpm range.

It can work, but its a lot of work, when you can just get a supercharger and wrap a belt around it and attach it to a pulley on your drive shaft pulley.

our eRAM does work, and work well, albeit only 1psi at 3-400cfm (900cfm is free flow)

see our site for more videos soon about showing the inherent power of the eRAM. at $300 its a great HP deal.

MK

[BIG JIM 54]

"our eRAM does work, and work well, albeit only 1psi at 3-400cfm"

If that's the case, my unit should light my 315/35-17ZR Michelin Pilot's on fire.

The AirResearch .95 Turbo was $81 used off EBay and my 3.8HP motor was $175 brand new. I'd be afraid my 371HP SB Chevy would swallow your eRam unit.

I can put 48V to the motor for short periods for a total of 7.8HP. Even the eggheads on the CorvetteForum say all I need is 1.9HP per pound of boost at 5000 RPM.

Big Jim Greenemeyer

[zanickzanick]

.95 turbo? what doest this mean?

your unit will have to be installed. dont forget about 2x40amp hour batteries, at $100 each, and then how do you plan on ducting an intermittant turbo inline? remember, an axial flow or squirrel cage fan can coexist in the intake stream, but the turbo, has to spin, or air doesnt move in to the intake!.. (ahhh, forgot about that) actually, Turbodyne did have a cleaver way to duct into the intake stream with a flap. however, this is not a trivial solution. somethings to work out im sure, but the main thing is , why?? a belt driven turbo at that level seems to make more sense. at least we admit to the ease of use and lower performance, vs bigger boost solutions. Yours seems to be over complicated. by the way, how are you going to gear up a 3000rpm to 60-80,000rpm turbo. thats a 20:1 ratio step up. cant really do that with belts as it would be a 1" pulley to a 20" pulley. Not really feasable.
that 3000rpm is probably at rated load, not the full max speed of the motor you have (I would imagine.) correct me if im assuming too much

interesting, but I think it would be a lot of work to get spinning (pun intended) this is why no one has done this before.

MK

Originally Posted by BIG JIM 54

"our eRAM does work, and work well, albeit only 1psi at 3-400cfm"

If that's the case, my unit should light my 315/35-17ZR Michelin Pilot's on fire.

The AirResearch .95 Turbo was $81 used off EBay and my 3.8HP motor was $175 brand new.