Leak in AC Compressor HELP

I put freon in my car this year and it still had hot air so I
took the car to shop to get fixed and they said a needed just a new AC compressor, said they would do the work for $600 total. I am going to do it myself though. My question since the freon must have leaked out, do I really need the system vaccum out?

And also how hard is it to take the old compressor out and put a new one in?

After you install the compressor, I would also replace the dryer and the orifice tube. Then when every thing that is needed to be replaced has been, a vacuum needs to be pulled in order to boil off any moisture that may be in the system.

Vacuuming the system down also makes sure you have no more leaks. If the system holds vacuum, it's sealed. Also, the negative starting pressure created by vacuuming it down allows the system to accept the new refrigerant better and the resultant air will be colder. Any time you open the A/C system, a new orifice filter should be installed to be sure it isn't clogged up with metal shavings. If the compressor is just leaking you may not have to replace the receiver drier, but if the compressor pump went bad and you found metal shavings in the orifice filter, I would strongly suggest changing it.

if the compressor is just leaking, you can put a new seal on it and save yourself some money.

Like dr hardware and Rich said, its common practice to replace the accumulator (reciever/dryer) and orifice tube when you replace the compressor.

if the compressor is just leaking, you can put a new seal on it and save yourself some money.

Like dr hardware and Rich said, its common practice to replace the accumulator (reciever/dryer) and orifice tube when you replace the compressor.


They said it had a big hole in the compressor. How much is the accumular and orifice tube?

Better safe then sorry, better to error on the side of caution. At least replacing the dyer. When ever I worked on AC systems, and had to crack them open I always replaced the dyer. I also put dye in the system for the purpose of making it easier to find any leaks.

Better safe then sorry, better to error on the side of caution. At least replacing the dyer. When ever I worked on AC systems, and had to crack them open I always replaced the dyer. I also put dye in the system for the purpose of making it easier to find any leaks.

I can't find the dryer at http://www.wilbertsgmparts.com/ can you ?

I can't find the dryer at http://www.wilbertsgmparts.com/ can you ?

The wilberts place is 20 miles away from me that's why im asking.

Is this the dryer part at autozone 4570N???

Please help I need to get this done

The dyer is a part that is needed to be a new part and not from a salvage yard. The problem is that you do not know what you are getting. Like was the system that the dyer came from still charged, if not it will be ineffective.

The dyer is a part that is needed to be a new part and not from a salvage yard. The problem is that you do not know what you are getting. Like was the system that the dyer came from still charged, if not it will be ineffective.


Is the drier and accumulator the same part?

Is the drier and accumulator the same part?

technically no, your car does not have a dryer, it has an accumulator. Accumulators and dryers are pretty much one in the same. Dryers are used on expansion valve type AC systems, accumulators are used in fixed orifice type systems. Your system is a fixed orifice type system, there for the correct term for it is an accumulator.

Make sure your new accumulator comes with new seals/o-rings, if not, order some. There is also another o-ring you will need for the orifice tube. Its not a regular o-ring, it has to be one that can be used in AC systems.

technically no, your car does not have a dryer, it has an accumulator. Accumulators and dryers are pretty much one in the same. Dryers are used on expansion valve type AC systems, accumulators are used in fixed orifice type systems. Your system is a fixed orifice type system, there for the correct term for it is an accumulator.

Make sure your new accumulator comes with new seals/o-rings, if not, order some. There is also another o-ring you will need for the orifice tube. Its not a regular o-ring, it has to be one that can be used in AC systems.


I'm trying to get the work done on the side so much labor should I be charged for a mechanic to vaccum the system, put in the new compressor, put in the new accumulator and recharge the system?

technically no, your car does not have a dryer, it has an accumulator. Accumulators and dryers are pretty much one in the same. Dryers are used on expansion valve type AC systems, accumulators are used in fixed orifice type systems. Your system is a fixed orifice type system, there for the correct term for it is an accumulator.

Make sure your new accumulator comes with new seals/o-rings, if not, order some. There is also another o-ring you will need for the orifice tube. Its not a regular o-ring, it has to be one that can be used in AC systems.


As I previously stated earlier the mechanic told me I only had an hole in just the compressor. He gave me a guy who uses "cryoseal" to fix the leaks for $235 is this a good deal and does cryoseal work?

no dont do it. You can buy used compressors for cheaper. When I need parts like that I usually call this wrecking yard 30 milea away from where I live. They are really good to deal with, prices are always fair, and the best part is they usually will give a lifetime warrenty on their used parts. Can you believe that? If the part quits working, all I have to do is pull it out, and return it with my reciept, and they hand me a replacement no questions asked.

I'm pretty sure they ship their parts. If your interested, let me know, I can get you the info of the guy I usually deal with.

no dont do it. You can buy used compressors for cheaper. When I need parts like that I usually call this wrecking yard 30 milea away from where I live. They are really good to deal with, prices are always fair, and the best part is they usually will give a lifetime warrenty on their used parts. Can you believe that? If the part quits working, all I have to do is pull it out, and return it with my reciept, and they hand me a replacement no questions asked.

I'm pretty sure they ship their parts. If your interested, let me know, I can get you the info of the guy I usually deal with.

I'm not worried about spending about $150 on parts, I'm worried about the labor. Probaly will end up doing the cyroseal thing.

cryoseal or not, the system will still need to be evacuated, vacuum pulled, and recharged.

technically no, your car does not have a dryer, it has an accumulator. Accumulators and dryers are pretty much one in the same. Dryers are used on expansion valve type AC systems, accumulators are used in fixed orifice type systems. Your system is a fixed orifice type system, there for the correct term for it is an accumulator.

Make sure your new accumulator comes with new seals/o-rings, if not, order some. There is also another o-ring you will need for the orifice tube. Its not a regular o-ring, it has to be one that can be used in AC systems.

You are right tblake, I was thinking expansion valve system and not the accumulator systems.

You are right tblake, I was thinking expansion valve system and not the accumulator systems.

Tomato - Tomatto

Same difference right? Parts monkey's should understand what he means by dryer, but some will probably look up his car in their system and go "I don't show a listing for a dryer".

Also I had the heat on my car and it lasted about 5 mins and went to warm/cool air. I then would turn it off and put it on heat again and hot air would come on for about 5 minutes again and then go back to the warm/cool air again. Could this be because of the compressor too?

I'm trying to figure out what your mechanic means by there is the "hole" is the compressor. If the case of the compressor is cracked or the variable orifice valve blew out leaving an actual hole, whatever "cryoseal" is isn't going to help. If by hole he means leak, then you need to find out where it's leaking from (front seal, rear seal, etc...).

I'm trying to figure out what your mechanic means by there is the "hole" is the compressor. If the case of the compressor is cracked or the variable orifice valve blew out leaving an actual hole, whatever "cryoseal" is isn't going to help. If by hole he means leak, then you need to find out where it's leaking from (front seal, rear seal, etc...).

Could the compressor be screwing up the heat as I mentioned a couple posts back?

I'm trying to figure out what your mechanic means by there is the "hole" is the compressor. If the case of the compressor is cracked or the variable orifice valve blew out leaving an actual hole, whatever "cryoseal" is isn't going to help. If by hole he means leak, then you need to find out where it's leaking from (front seal, rear seal, etc...).

I was wondering the same thing Rich.

Could the compressor be screwing up the heat as I mentioned a couple posts back?

The GM V5 continusouly runs when the motor runs, however to answer your question in a word.... No.

I might have missed it, so refresh my memory. Do you have the manual or digital HVAC controll?

Could the compressor be screwing up the heat as I mentioned a couple posts back?


I doubt it. It sounds as if you have a bad temp actuator, HVAC control head, or electrical issue. You didn't miss it Tim, OP never answered that question. We still need to know if it has manual or digital auto controls.

The GM V5 continusouly runs when the motor runs, however to answer your question in a word.... No.

I might have missed it, so refresh my memory. Do you have the manual or digital HVAC controll?


Manual HVAC controls...Also the vents are blowing air when its suppose to be off when the knob is turned to blow air just at your face, I turn it to the max position and it stops.

I doubt it. It sounds as if you have a bad temp actuator, HVAC control head, or electrical issue. You didn't miss it Tim, OP never answered that question. We still need to know if it has manual or digital auto controls.


My family mechanic mentioned the guy who does the "cryoseal" so the hole or leak must be sealable.

I wouldn't worry about the leak just yet. I'd try and figure out the electrical/mechanical issue causing the fans on and the heat to blow cold.