98' Lumina front lug stud R&R
67drake
02-28-2009, 10:50 AM
Do the front lugs just pound out and then reinsert and press from behind?
It looks as if there is not enough clearance without taking the front hub off? Is this true or am I not seeing this right?
Thanks!
It looks as if there is not enough clearance without taking the front hub off? Is this true or am I not seeing this right?
Thanks!
rhandwor
02-28-2009, 06:36 PM
If your going to drive out with a hammer I would pull the hub. Then use a heavy impact socket under the stud and drive it out. You can damage a bearing if you don't have the hub steady when you pound.
jeffcoslacker
03-01-2009, 09:32 AM
If your going to drive out with a hammer I would pull the hub. Then use a heavy impact socket under the stud and drive it out. You can damage a bearing if you don't have the hub steady when you pound.
I dunno...I've beat hundreds of them out of hubs, can't remember ever having one go bad as a result.
Many have a way they can be removed if the hub is rotated to the right position. The interfering structure has a notch to allow removal...
Some don't, and have to be "angled" into the hole as a result of interference....not a problem for getting the broken one out, as it's shortened length allows it to worm past the obstruction...but the new one sometimes can't go straight into the hole from behind, coming maddeningly close but won't push through...
My solution was: Grind a flat spot off the head of the new one...just a small notch will allow it to pass through, doesn't take much. Yeah, I know, someone is gonna scream that it compromises the strength of the stud. Probably so. Regardless, never had one fail from it...wheel studs are one of those things that are so overbuilt for their job, they can afford a little reduction.
Hit that baby with WD-40 from front and back, let soak ten minutes, and it usually only takes one good whack from the BFH to knock it out.
I dunno...I've beat hundreds of them out of hubs, can't remember ever having one go bad as a result.
Many have a way they can be removed if the hub is rotated to the right position. The interfering structure has a notch to allow removal...
Some don't, and have to be "angled" into the hole as a result of interference....not a problem for getting the broken one out, as it's shortened length allows it to worm past the obstruction...but the new one sometimes can't go straight into the hole from behind, coming maddeningly close but won't push through...
My solution was: Grind a flat spot off the head of the new one...just a small notch will allow it to pass through, doesn't take much. Yeah, I know, someone is gonna scream that it compromises the strength of the stud. Probably so. Regardless, never had one fail from it...wheel studs are one of those things that are so overbuilt for their job, they can afford a little reduction.
Hit that baby with WD-40 from front and back, let soak ten minutes, and it usually only takes one good whack from the BFH to knock it out.
dwalmop
03-06-2009, 01:48 PM
Buy the replacement stud from NAPA. They come just a hair shorter, and with the hub rotated so that the stud to be replaced is approximately in the 6 o'clock position, you should be able to wedge the new slightly shorter stud into place without removing the hub.
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