Helllllllllllllllp!!!

Hey guys, I really need help with my Buick. Its got 158,000 on it right now and had the intake manifold replaced a few months ago. Recently the fcar has been throwing a service engine soon light and eating gas. Now it has started studdering hard just like it was when the manifold cracked. It studders and finally dies and takes a little bit to get running again. I've about had it with this car and I'm basicly waiting for the tax season so I can get my return and get a new car. But until then I have to drive this thing. A couple months back I had the code ran and it came up as the egr valve. Im wondering if that would make the car run the way its running or if it is something more again.

If its an easy today fix I could do it but if not Its going back to the shop under warranty to see if that plastic piece of junk cracked again.

An help would be great. Thanks

When the "Service Engine Soon" light turns on, that's what you are supposed to do. If you scan the PCM it might reveal some useful error codes. If the EGR code was set, the EGR system should have been checked. A leaking EGR valve will cause the symptoms you describe, but so will many other causes.

A leaking EGR is, in essence, a massive vacuum leak, causing engine stalling, poor fuel mileage, hard starting, evident misfire, rough running, possibly overheating, and several other symptoms. Leaking digital valves are frequently due to carbon accumulation, and can often simply be cleaned and freed up to resolve the problem.

So then should I replace the EGR valve or take it back for warranty purposes just to find out if the EGR is bad and nothing else? Also I replaced the coil packs today and that seemed to help for a few minutes then it went back but not as bad as last night. Just a few sputters here and there.

No one advised that you replace the EGR. You can remove and clean it, then make sure it seals. You can also clean out the EGR passages while there.

As stated, the EGR is only one possible cause of those symptoms. Scanning the PCM for codes is going to be your best route to discovering the problem(s). I only mentioned the EGR since you stated that the PCM had an EGR error code.

Well I already tried cleaning it and with the thing having as many miles on it as it does, it was blacker than black inside. But I think cleaning it only made it worse. Ive replaced everything that came up on the little code which was, Spark plugs, wires, coils except for fuel filter and EGR. I have the fuel filter but I dont freakin own a jack since the last time someone stole mine. SO I have to wait till the weekend on that and I hope the car will stay running the way it is right now which is getting me to work, until friday (payday) to get the EGR and buy a jack to get the rest fixed up.

Ive replaced everything that came up on the little code which was, Spark plugs, wires, coils except for fuel filter and EGR. .

What was the DTC(s)? Best to post it.

So I replaced the EGR valve and that took care of a lot of the problems. Now though, when I take a corner the car wants to shut of like something either clogged the fuel pump or something clogged the injectors. Also I need to flush the coolant out and was wondering if anyone knew a better way to really get it cleaned out on the inside without paying a hundred dollars at the shop. Thanks for all you guys help.

Hey guys, I really need help with my Buick. Its got 158,000 on it right now and had the intake manifold replaced a few months ago. Recently the fcar has been throwing a service engine soon light and eating gas. Now it has started studdering hard just like it was when the manifold cracked. It studders and finally dies and takes a little bit to get running again. I've about had it with this car and I'm basicly waiting for the tax season so I can get my return and get a new car. But until then I have to drive this thing. A couple months back I had the code ran and it came up as the egr valve. Im wondering if that would make the car run the way its running or if it is something more again.


You say the intake manifold cracked? Do you mean the plastic (ABS?) housing cracked? What caused it?

The only thing I've heard mentioned that cracked the intakes is the Fuel Pressure Regulators. There was a recall for some certain models a few years back.

If it cracked again (rather than leaked coolant at seals on the intake) I'd look into what caused the crack to occur. FPR?

No mention of the year of this car here. :dunno:

2000 3.8 auto front wheel drive 2 windows that roll down when they want to, stuttering on corners. Someone told me it might be the FPR. Told me to run the car for 10-15 min and then pull the hose off to see if it bled gas. IT did. So could that be a potential problem or do they all do that? Also I was told that over time the EGR valve since its metal warps and cracks the plastic manifold. How true that is, dont know but I didnt have time to argue with the guy cause it happend right as soon as I got a new job. First day going to work car wouldnt start wouldnt do anything. I about set fire to this thing.

Someone told me it might be the FPR. Told me to run the car for 10-15 min and then pull the hose off to see if it bled gas. IT did. So could that be a potential problem or do they all do that?
If you have raw fuel in the vacuum line @ the FPR, change that S.O.B FPR ASAP!! If you don't, it could blow the intake into many pieces and completely off of the engine, as well as cause a fire!

ALright. So thats fixed but tis still doing the same thing. Only when I turn the car though. What the crap could this be?

I dont freakin own a jack since the last time someone stole mine. :uhoh:
This reminds me of when I lived in San Antonio! :rofl: I had a neighbor who was mowing his yard with a new John Deer riding mower; he turned the mower off for a few minutes to go in his house for a drink of water. He was gone for less than two minutes, and when he returned outside, his mower was GONE! Of course, he never saw it again! One thing I learned while living there; the thieves are professional, fast and work 24-7 (even in broad daylight)!:evillol:

Oh well, back to your LeSabre problems. Have you checked the battery cables to ensure they are clean & tight? Have you checked the fuel pressure?

I was like ummmm. im not a thief but if you know any that want the car be my guest and send them over. Ill give them a three day head start :) Havent checked the pressure cause this car is slowly running me dry here. I looked at the ground cable last night and noticed a ball load of corrosion powder stuff under the battery. Im wondering if that thing sprung a leak and is eating through the floor. I dont have a chance to check it out in the daylight cause i work form butt crack of dawn to butt crack of night.

HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA Brake vaccuum something. Piece of yunk. Oh well thats the way it goes. Woke up this morning and couldnt start the car. Had it towed to the shop and blam a 15 dollar part and 65 for a tow and 30 to put it on. Dangit

... leaking EGR is, in essence, a massive vacuum leak...


Remember that part? Was it a brake vacuum booster check valve, perhaps?

brake vaccuum housing or something

Can you possiblly get the part number or a better description of what it was. My car shakes when turning also. Thanks REO

Well, That was short lived. Cars back in the shop and guess what. They cant figure out whats wrong with it. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA God im going crazy. Theyve had it since Firday and today is now Wednsday. It acts up it dosent act up it acts up it dosent act up. The guy at the shop is about to tell me to throw it away and this is just driving me insane that they cant fix it. He even is at his wits end now. Checking rechecking and checking everything again. This time the problem seems to just come in and almost kill the car then it runs rough for a while. He named off a ton of stuff he checked and is now throwing parts at since it dosent throw a code at all. Anyone can chime in if they want this awesome mystery of peices of buick.

I had some bad running and dyiing once, and sitting on the shoulder of the freeway trying to get it to run for more than 10 sec. Eventually after many restarts, it threw a code of a MAF problem. I unplugged the MAF, and it seemed to run OK enough to limp home (wouldnt idle without some gas pedal, but ran at hiway speeds). After pricing the MAF, I decided to open up the old one and poke around, just for kicks. Found a solder joint that was loose, I resoldered it, and its been running OK ever since. So I know a bad/intermittent MAF can make the car run bad, and not throw a code.

Welp I just got kicked in the nuts for 500 bucks. After it being at my normal shop for a week I finally broke down and sent it to Buick, God what a mistake. Oh well 3 hours of labor at a 100 bucks a piece and a mass air flow meter at 200 bucks from them later I have a car that runs at the dealership. So they kept it over night to see if it will start up and run nicely tom. and I can have it back. Wow I really hat my buick. After all this work I jammed into it I believe Im going to sell it to get rid of it and be done with it. Just sharing my awesome day with you guys.