Last problem now... LOL, at 65mph engine sputters, and 3 crank cold crank

If the car has sat for more than we'll say an hour, it takes 3 cranks to start it. Not 2 oo 4 or 10 but 3 every single time. It starts one crank if it's warm, and I dont even want to say it that way. More like if you've ran it the gas is already close to where it has to go so it starts, but the 3 crank to me seems like it takes 3 cranks to get the gas where it's gotta go. As well as the sputtering. It's a brand new fuek pump. We haven't treid changing the fuel filter yet, but we've changed the ground bus on the car, starter, fuel pump, spark plugs and everytime I turn around it's something else, LOL. Car runs smooth, starts good if it's warm but not on a cold crank. Any thoughts? At 65 mph it sputters unless I accelerate or let off of the gas. We've tried blowing it out by running the car at a high speed and accelerating as fast as possible and the sputtering has stopped a little, but still a 3 crank start.

94' Lesabre.

Sounds like a sensor issue.. not a fuel problem.

Fuel filter would cause a power loss as you get into the throttle hard or up hill. (Proubably not)

Mix is controlled by the PCM via:
ECT - Engine Coolant Temp
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
MAF - Mass Air Flow INSPECT.. maybe a careful cleaning
IAT - Intake Air Temp

Troubleshoot as if its a new problem.
Start by resetting the computer (again).... Disconnect the battery for 10 seconds.
Have the codes read.

If its remotely a ignition module problem you may be able to just turn the key to run and wait for a bit to see if it warms with voltage and starts.

Sputtering at 65 only be fuel mix via a sensor or plugs.
Plugs can fail in a compression range and work at other pressures like throttling up or letting off.

That my thoughts.

Good Luck

So I turn it to run let it warm and it is still at a 3 crank issue.

I put fuel injector cleaner and octane boost in the car and it only made my problem worse with the sputtering.

I poured the injector and octane boost in first and then filled the tank completely full only making my sputtering problem worse.

Now instead of sputtering at 65 mph it's at 45 mph as well. Also running rough while sitting still.

When accelerating if I slightly push the gas from a stopping position it does nothing as if it has no fuel getting to it, apply more pressure to the pedal and it jerks forward or in reverse whichever way I may be going. This only happens from a sitting still. I mean it's a jerk like when someone is learning how to drive a stick for the first time, only problem I can drive a stick and it's an automatic.

I'm starting to see a sensor problem and may need to hook it up to a computer again.

I was told fuel injector and octane boost may have knocked some dirt free worsening my problem, but I dont much about cars and am getting ticked about this one. Maybe fuel filter needs replaced. Read in another post that there is a sock that is a screen that filters the gas tank and may need replaced.

Any more suggestions.

I guess I should also mention that it ran fine on a full tank and we ran all over the place yesterday. As soon as it hit a 1/2 tank it started this.

Try this first before starting. Turn the key to the on postion 3-times before you try to start the engine. This will prime the fuel system to full pressure. If your filter is clogged, this procedure may help! Next, you need to get a fuel pressure tester and hook it to the fuel rail. You should have 38-45 @ idle. If the filter is clogged, your engine will starve for fuel! The more gas in the tank, the more likely you would have higher fuel pressure. (That is gravity pressure in addition to pump pressure). Once the level drops, so does the pressure. You may need to install a remote gage and monitor fuel pressure while driving.
Good Luck!

We went to a different mechanic this time, instead of our cousin. This guy didn't even hook it up to read the codes he immediately said fuel filter. We replaced the fuel filter, it ran so smooth for the first 10 minutes and then it started again. At a stop I went to drive off and it took me pumping the gas again. I took my hubby out and it runs fine for him, which is seriously pissing me off since he thinks I just want something to be wrong with the car for him to fix, LOL. I told him to take it back and have them hook it up. He disconnected the O2 sensor to see if this could be the case and just now took it on a test drive so we'll see. I've tried priming the pump first and I dont know what the heck that is wrong with the crank but I've kinda gotten use to it by now. I will however not be used to fuel pressure being lost and having to pump it.
I dont understand, why is it you can disconnect the O2 sensor to the EGR and it run fine but when connected togerther something is wrong. Does that mean you really dont need these parts?

*Update*

I dont know what he was trying to prove with this method because it didn't prove a thing which is what I was trying to ask.

We took it and had the diagnostics read and nothing popped up, nothing at all. So now we are gonna start blindly changing parts. First we're gonna start with the crankshaft position sensor. He says the camshaft is new and after reading what problems a CPS can cause from the Haynes manual we ( I ) decided he was changing this first. If that doesn't fix it, I guess we'll go EGR valve but that's a little more costly so we'll go cheapest first.

Any more ideas please feel free to post. Everything I know about this car and i"m becoming pretty knowledgeable is form this forum. I really do appreciate it, I feel smarter than the mechanics we've been to, since I've been able to at least point in a direction better than what they were doing. Thanks!