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Need everyone's advice - thinking about getting a Metro!


andrgo
12-15-2006, 12:44 AM
Hey guys,


I seriously need some advice here! I am an 18 year old high school student and I have to pay for all of the gas to put in my 1987 F150 that gets 11MPG and goes through a quart of oil every 3 weeks!
I have to fill my truck up 6 times a month with unleaded, each time it's about $35.00. That's almost $2,500/yr on gas. It is ridiculous!


I need a car that gets good gas mileage, and I have forever known about the miraculous Geo Metro. I recently found one for $2,750 OBO.


Here's a picture of the one I found locally:
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/571/geomiq9.jpg
Here's the specs on it as the guy told me:
- 1992 Metro LSI 1.0 3cyl manual
- 98,000 miles
- He says everything is working with it mechanically/cosmetically and no underneath rust either.
- Only thing is that he says the car had some "minor front end damage" a few years back (he didn't tell me the specifics but I am going to ask) in which he need to put a new hood on.


Should I get a Geo Metro? I already know all of the good things about them (gas mileage at the top of the list of course.) Would you recommend I get a Geo Metro, why or why not?


I need something that's good on gas, dependable name, and is no newer than 1996 (to avoid higher insurance costs.)
Is a 90-96 the Geo Metro that car?



I know for a fact I can't keep driving that 11MPG truck...

Crvett69
12-15-2006, 12:52 AM
he is asking way to much for a 92, especially one that was previously damaged. you should expect to pay between $1000-1500 for one in decent shape. check craigslist and look on e-bay for ones in your area. you can make the guy a lowball offer on the car but no way its worth $2700

andrgo
12-15-2006, 01:07 AM
he is asking way to much for a 92, especially one that was previously damaged. you should expect to pay between $1000-1500 for one in decent shape. check craigslist and look on e-bay for ones in your area. you can make the guy a lowball offer on the car but no way its worth $2700
Wow man, you're right on according to Edmunds, KBB, and NadaGuides.
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/9725/geom92ff9.th.gif (http://img187.imageshack.us/my.php?image=geom92ff9.gif)

Why is this guy asking for so much money for a car worth half that? I investigated him on the internet (using his name, city) and found out he's a high school teacher, so it's not like it's some crazy kid trying to put an astronomical price on their "awesome" car or anything. I mean of all people, I would expect a middle-aged teacher to be the most sensible.

Are there any good techniques I could try to use to talk him down to at least $1,500?

Crvett69
12-15-2006, 02:59 AM
some people think just cause its theirs its worth more, thing to do is make him a low offer and leave your phone number with him. lot of times i will get a call back a week or two later when they get tired of looking at car and take my offer

serenity
12-15-2006, 11:24 AM
If you can get a better price then what he is asking. Thats way to much. Also keep in mind that the geo is not a high preformence car. If you have a habit of pushing it hard it will likely leave you stranded some where on the side of the road soon. However if you use it wisely and keep in mind that it is a vehicle made to get you from point A to points BC&D and don't push it to hard it could last you a very long time, and save you a bundle of money! good lucy S.

Mike_Van
12-15-2006, 12:29 PM
He's asking way too much. Offer $1500 tops.
Though perhaps a rare case, I paid $500 for my '96 with 134k three years ago.

These cars have a few electrical system weaknesses/quirks, but I'd call it reliable basic transportation, when treated nicely.
Do not expect it to be fast, quiet, or luxurious.

-Mike

andrgo
12-15-2006, 01:26 PM
I'm definitely not a "tough guy" on cars. I mean, yeah, there's been a few times where the pedal has literally been down touching the floor (because every morning I have to pull out onto a busy state highway to get into town.) Other than those FEW times I have to put the "pedal to the metal" so to speak, I treat my vehicles very decently.
I despise people that abuse their vehicles!

The main reason I want a Metro is because I'm a young guy and like I said earlier I've got a ton of money to pay off (mainly my truck) and my truck's costs altogether are insane (insurance, gas, adding a quart of oil every 3 weeks, tune-ups, etc.) all add up to about $3,800-4,000 per year! And since I'm a student, that amount is over HALF of what I make in ONE year!

I'd also like to go on some road trips while I'm still young. A Metro seems perfect for that. Might I also mention that I am a very plain-jane guy, I don't care about having a fancy/quiet/high-performance car. I want to be as economical as possible because I think that's what really matters.



Can I ask some more questions too...

How much do you folks pay annually (in one year) for car insurance on your Metro? Please also give your gender/age if you don't mind.
How much MPG YOUR Metro get averaged out?
Are there any common problems with Metros generally speaking?
How do Metro's HANDLE in snow/ice/rain?
Thanks you guys, you have no idea how much I appreciate your help in this topic!

Crvett69
12-15-2006, 01:36 PM
for long trips the newer metros (95-2000) ride better and handle nicer but don't get as good mpg as the 89-94 version. the 5 speed 3 cyl in good shape should average between 40-50mpg depending on your driving habits. liability insurance costs me about 350 a year for a metro, i get most of mine cheap and broken and put new motors in and don;t see any reason to put full coverage on them. if you want something that still gets good mileage and is faily fast look around for a 89-94 suzuki swift GTi. its a metro body with a 100hp DOHC 4 cyl. has 14" tires, 4 wheel disk brakes, rear spoiler, ground effects kit and nicer interior. i have one of them and it still gets 38 even though i tend to drive it hard

floridabuckeye
12-16-2006, 12:29 AM
I suggest you keep an eye out... I recently found a 98 that needed just a little tlc (new window regulator, hubcaps, alternator, and headliner glue) with 89,000 miles on it for a grand... It has been a perfect little car for my wife to drive around...

If the car was insured by it self it would cost about 160 every month... we have two cars and get a multi-car discount, it ended up costing us an extra $1.68 every 6 months to insure... I'm 27 she is 23

Ours is an automatic and the 1.3L (slightly less gas mileage). We get about 34 to 35 mpg so far... (about 270 to 280 miles per 8 gal. fillup)

No idea on the snow and ice since the car has never left Florida, but it does just fine in the rain.

idmetro
12-16-2006, 10:45 AM
We have an 86, 92 and 94 version. All handle surprisingly well in the snow. A large part of that depends on your driving style though...

Mike_Van
12-16-2006, 01:52 PM
Insurance on a '96 is just under $300 a year, but a 37 year-old female (wife) is the primary driver, and we only put maybe 6,000 a year on it (primarily a pleasure vehicle - we both bike to work most of the year).

The only major issues I have had are of an electrical nature:
1) A wire going to a sensor that happened to be on the same circuit as the ECU shorted out. The result was no ECU circuit, thus no fuel delivery.
Quite hard to find, but no such issue since.

2) the factory fusebox is crap and thus the circuits that carry the most current (headlights) run a risk of running too hot for the plastic parts used, and can melt. I've read that rebuilding it is a chore, but that it solves the problem.

3) my brights do not work intermittently, unless I have the level pulled toward me. Related to the fusebox weakness/issue, I think. When they do work, the headlight switch does allow me to turn them on.

MPG: 40 city 45-48 Hwy, if I don't go over 60.

Snow: with 4 studless snows (Nordman) I have great traction.
With summer tires, it was a little scary on ice & slush.

Starts in very cold (10 degrees F) weather.

andrgo
12-16-2006, 09:07 PM
Wow, I read all of the new replies here. Thank you all for the useful information, it's really persuaded me to get a Geo Metro even more. Thank you!

Well, I'm pretty convinced on getting an 89-98 Metro now.


I'm having a real heck of a time trying to find a Metro in the whole state of Minnesota. The ones I have found, I email the people who are selling them and they never contact me back - they're "fresh" listings too not even a few weeks old. I have literally checked every site I know that has any type of cars for sale or classifieds on it (CarSoup, Autotrader, etc.) and no one will get back to me. I have emailed about 6 or 7 people now about their Metro's for sale and not a single one has got back to me!

It is ridiculously crazy, has anyone else has this problem?
If they're selling their cars, you'd think they'd actually want to sell them and give me a jingle back... http://www.dionysians.org/forum/images/smilies/weird.gif

DanMan7
12-16-2006, 11:08 PM
I have a 92 Metro. It has a burnt valve, but it still gets about 28-30mpg. It has about 160,000 miles. Insurance costs me about $160 a year and I'm 25 years old ($80 every 6 months). Although I own four vehicles, so I get the multi-car discount. I bought my Geo for $500.

Crvett69
12-17-2006, 02:37 AM
i never seem to have a problem finding them, got 2 today at a towing auction, a 95 for $60 and a 91 4 door for 75. the craigslist.com in your state and others close to you

andrgo
12-18-2006, 01:42 PM
Wow, hah like I've said I've had a real problem finding them! I must be the one here with bad luck! I did find one last week and I got a response from the guy today.

It's a 1998 3-cyl 5-speed "Chevrolet" Metro (http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/2001cartablef.jsp?id=14064) for $1,500.
The guy selling it seems like a pretty decent person when I talked to him so I don't think he's being phony about the car in any way. He said there were no any mechanical/cosmetic issues with it.

The ONLY thing is that it has over 200,000 miles on it. Since I'm new to Metro's, I don't know how many miles they typically can take in their lifetime. I also don't know how/if you can rebuild the engines and if you could, if the gas mileage would still be the same.

Can I get your guys' opinions on the mileage?

91Caprice9c1
12-19-2006, 04:07 AM
Wow, hah like I've said I've had a real problem finding them! I must be the one here with bad luck! I did find one last week and I got a response from the guy today.

It's a 1998 3-cyl 5-speed "Chevrolet" Metro (http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/2001cartablef.jsp?id=14064) for $1,500.
The guy selling it seems like a pretty decent person when I talked to him so I don't think he's being phony about the car in any way. He said there were no any mechanical/cosmetic issues with it.

The ONLY thing is that it has over 200,000 miles on it. Since I'm new to Metro's, I don't know how many miles they typically can take in their lifetime. I also don't know how/if you can rebuild the engines and if you could, if the gas mileage would still be the same.

Can I get your guys' opinions on the mileage?

I maintain a fleet of 20 +/- 2 geo metros (93-97). Mileage is simply outstanding. I prefer the 94's as they seem to be the most peppy. I think the 95-97's got a more conservative cam. I have no experience with 98+ models. As far as how many miles they're good for I would expect some quirky behavior from a metro with 200k on the clock, but it really comes down to how meticulously the car has been looked after. Engine rebuilds on these buggers has been fun for me. About as simple as an automotive grade internal combustion engine gets. In southern calif. I have a machine shop that I faithfully take my engines to (small block chevys, ford 4.6's, and geo metros) and usually get out the door for around 500 dollars with machine work and parts, and for all intensive purposes wind up with a new engine. I've had a lot of 5-speed tranny's go out on me with the fleet and when they do I pick up used units from a near by dismantler for 350 a pop, plus another 150 for a machined flywheel and new clutch kit. In conclusion, if you have some time, emergency funds around 500 dollars, and basic mechanical inclination on your side in case of failure, a 200k mile metro seems like a good choice to me. Put 950 down in front of him, see what he says, then put a grand down and remind him he's selling a metro with 200 thousand miles :licka:

-mechanicmatt

andrgo
12-27-2006, 05:40 PM
Thanks a lot for your advice Matt. I haven't gotten back to the guy yet. The 1998 one I was talking about is still on my "Metro list". Right now I'm just tryign to narrow down the individual and very-seldom Metro's that are in the whole state of Minnesota (there's hardly any, at least online, and about every 1/8 leave a phone number or actually respond to your email.) I guess as long as I know that just because a car has 200k on it, it can still be fixed up and a person can still expect to get more and more mileage from it, starting with tune-ups.


I have another question for you Metro buffs:
How are Metro's for safety?

I was recently looking at the Metro crash test / safety ratings but they're just a bunch of numbers which doesn't tell me much since I don't know anything about crash test or safety ratings.

Right now I'm 18 and I've already got enough money to buy a $1k or less Metro (although if I could sell at least one of my two vehicles I have right now, that would surely add to the funds.) Even though I'm 18 and can afford the car on my own, I still my need help from my folks since I'm under their insurance policy until I'm 21 (their offer.) So basically I need to do some convincing about getting a Metro, and so far they're mostly against it for two main reasons:

1) My folks say that Metro's have very poor safety ratings (they have no proof though) so if I get one, apparently I'll die as soon as I start driving it or something. Funny they fear for my safety even though I've been driving for three and a half years and I've never even came close to having an accident. Now IF I was one of those kids that gets in accidents by the month, then yes I could see why'd they'd be worried about the Metro's safety/crash ratings but so far I'm a "perfect" driver. They both think any "subcompact" car is automatically an accident waiting to happen. My thoughts are: you can die in a Geo Metro just as easily as you can die in an 18-wheeler, it all depends on the situation. Of course Geo's are smaller/lower to the ground than most cars, but that doesn't mean you're not going to get in any other kind of accident with some bigger gas-guzzler.

2) The second reason they don't support me getting a Metro is because they're paranoid about the car's history. As soon as I say "well, can we go take a look at this Metro I found for sale online?" my parents start throwing sentences out like "you don't know if it's been in an accident!" and "how do you know it hasn't been abused?" Obviously this doesn't for just Geo Metro's but any car, my parents just don't trust me buying anything from a private-party whom I found out over the internet. They say they don't want to see me get stuck with a car that I'll have to put hundreds of dollars into from the get-go because it will turn out to be a piece of crap. Any way I can coax them out of this pessimism?



Well, if anyone could personally testify on how safe Geo Metro's are or give me some factual evidence on how safe or unsafe they are, I would really appreciate it!

f100240
12-27-2006, 08:43 PM
Check out wikipedia.org for a lot of information, including safety. I think your parents are wise to be worried about safety in a small, light car with not much power. In 1995, however, the chassis was made 30% stiffer and the driver was much more protected with the addition of 150 pounds of metal. The car then became the first vehicle to pass the 1997 North American side impact standards. They also have full time head lights and two airbags. I don't know if the three cylinder model was offered. I think it was. I have a 1995 four cylinder LSI with automatic transaxle. It gets about 10-12 mpg less than the three cylinder 5 speed manual trans models. If a four cylinder was available with manual transmission (I don't know), it would likely get only three or four mpg less that the three cylinder model.
Barry.

Metro Mighty Mouse
12-28-2006, 01:32 AM
The 3 cyl engine was available in 95 and I believe carried on to the end of the production run.

The biggest advantage to these vehicles is the cost of repairs. They made and sold so many that there are a lot of used parts available. Engines are available through JDM importers for anywhere from 250.00 to 500.00 to 600.00 unless they are trying to rip you off. when I ordered my replacement motor from a co. in New York I had it shipped to Texas for arround 500.00 total. At the time I had the opportunity to add on a Transaxel for arround 75.00 more + shipping. I should have done it since I knew my tranny was bad, but I just couldn't afford it at the time. Of course my tranny failed within a year and I got one from a junk yard for 250.00 (couldn't wait for one to ship and final cost would have been similar). Add that to the money you save on gas and you are way ahead on the money game.

I have been driving small cars for over 20 years now. What you lose in sheer Mass you gain in manuervability. The Metro is a very nimble little car and can get you out of trouble very quickly. All vehicles have their safety advantages and disadvantages. Your truck is much more likely to spin in emergency manuervers than the Metro. It's also more likely to flip, especially if it sits high. I drive my 95 3 cyl 1 hour to and from work, in traffic, in lots of rain (Washington weather), at a fairly consistant 70 to 75 MPH. I get over 40 miles to the gallon and it has been over a year since I had to do any real work on the car. The metro met all the safety requirements through the end of its run, which was less than 5 years ago, with no major changes from 95 on. I would recommend gathering up all the numerical data then getting the same information on other similar cars and also the vehicles that you and your parents drive and have driven and use that to make a comparison.

I do not drive in fear in this car and in fact my wife drove it from Ft. Worth to Michigan to pick up our 2 kids and then drove from Michigan to Washington without a problem.

As far as a cars history goes, careful inspection will tell you a lot. I have looked over rust bucket beetles for nearly an hour before making the purchase to make sure I knew what the car needed. Learn what to look for on these cars, or any car you are interested in buying, then go over any prospective vehicle with a fine tooth comb. For the metro, in areas where they salt the roads, the #1 thing to look for is rust at the front suspension mounting point. Find pictures of what to look for and do not be afraid to request to put the car on ramps or drive it onto a curb (from a driveway) so you can get under the car and see whats there. Look for oil under the timing belt cover, a main seal leak can run the engine dry in minutes (I know from personal experience, and it still ran for several months after that without a hiccup, then died suddenly). Manual gearboxes have problems with the 2nd gear syncros. Read through as many posts here and on other sites (teamswift.net has a ton of information) to see what is common and what you should look for. Previous accidents will almost always show up with overspray under the car or paint edges at seams. Older repairs show up as different colored panels. Look for uneven seams and other places where body parts don't fit right. check all the glass for the same manufacturer information, broken windows will normally have a different info tag. Knowlege is power in this case. If you know what you are looking for it's harder to get taken

Good luck,
MMM
Jon

tmaxmetro
12-28-2006, 10:15 AM
I think statistics will show that in a serious crash, you're better protected in a larger vehicle. Who knows... you could be seriously injured driving a bicycle, a Hummer or driving on a Greyhound bus.

As stated, the 95 and newer Metros with the dual airbags are rated safer than the 94 and older.

cheers,

Rail-2008
12-30-2006, 02:28 AM
Hey guys,


I seriously need some advice here! I am an 18 year old high school student and I have to pay for all of the gas to put in my 1987 F150 that gets 11MPG and goes through a quart of oil every 3 weeks!
I have to fill my truck up 6 times a month with unleaded, each time it's about $35.00. That's almost $2,500/yr on gas. It is ridiculous!


I need a car that gets good gas mileage, and I have forever known about the miraculous Geo Metro. I recently found one for $2,750 OBO.


Here's a picture of the one I found locally:
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/571/geomiq9.jpg
Here's the specs on it as the guy told me:
- 1992 Metro LSI 1.0 3cyl manual
- 98,000 miles
- He says everything is working with it mechanically/cosmetically and no underneath rust either.
- Only thing is that he says the car had some "minor front end damage" a few years back (he didn't tell me the specifics but I am going to ask) in which he need to put a new hood on.


Should I get a Geo Metro? I already know all of the good things about them (gas mileage at the top of the list of course.) Would you recommend I get a Geo Metro, why or why not?


I need something that's good on gas, dependable name, and is no newer than 1996 (to avoid higher insurance costs.)
Is a 90-96 the Geo Metro that car?



I know for a fact I can't keep driving that 11MPG truck...



He asked way to much for that geo because usta have one that got around 30-40mpg but thats if you dident race it, I payed about 800 for it and it was nice. and by the way if you do get that car dont race it because thos three bangers cant handle raceing it, I put three engines in my car before i sold it but what ever man peace

andrgo
02-23-2007, 12:09 PM
Well, I just thought I'd update you guys here. I've been trying to sell my 1987 Ford F150 for a few months now, I *think* I've finally found someone that might take it off my hands.. not for the $1,595 I'm asking for it though but for $800. It's better than nothing, and realistically the truck is probably worth $800 at the most.

Anyway, I already have a 1992 Buick Skylark along with the pickup truck. So that means, if I buy a Metro I'll have three vehicles to pay for! There's no way that is financially possible as I'm only 18 and making a lowsy $6.50 at "Menards" (a home improvement company that refuses to pay more than $6.50/hr and give any raises to anyone that is still in high school. It's ridiculous because I've been with them for over 14 months!)

Anyway, back onto automobiles: it's impossible and illogical to have three vehicles. The truck was a hand-me-down from my folks, so I should hopefully be selling it in the next two weeks for $800. That means that I should be able to buy a Geo Metro sometime within the next few months.

I want to wait for the right Metro to come along too. I want a 2-dr 3-cyl 1.0L 5-speed, I think you'd get the best mileage that way.

The bad thing about Metros in Minnesota is that...
a) They majority of them run for $2,300++
b) They have rust from the salted roads
c) They're not running or have many imperfections
d) Or all or a combination of any of thee above

Serious, the market for Geo Metros in Minnesota is pathetic. They're impossible to find at local car dealers, and on CarSoup and CraigsList the prices are $2,300+ on most of them (I'd say every 1/5 Metros are actually below that price range.) I've even checked the local surrounding states.. Wisconsin, Dakotas, Iowa, they're all pretty much the same. I guess the Midwest just plain sucks, heh.

Anyway, I'll keep you guys updated. I'm praying I'll sell the truck soon and that I can find a Metro for a decent price (I better pray for that also.. http://www.ridinglights.org/phpBB2/images/smiles/bored.gif)

andrgo
02-23-2007, 03:04 PM
Okay, I'm sorry for bumping my own topic here.. I just have one simple question:


How much mileage specifically would a 2-door 1996 1.3L 4-cylinder manual Geo Metro get?
- Is the EPA's rating (http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/2001cartablef.jsp?id=12605) accurate or not?

GeoRandy
02-23-2007, 06:54 PM
andrgo,
I bought mine 2 years ago, 1997, 3-cyl, same as the blue one you pictured only mine is red. It was one of the best buys I have made. The Kelly Blue Book price was $2,300 and retail was $2,800, and I told the seller that. He said it was worth every penny at $3,000. It had only 28,000 original miles, and was owned by a retired couple that towed it behind a motorhome. He also said that realistically, less that 10,000 of those miles were with the engine running. They towed it more than they drove it. I gave him $3,000 (more than blue book retail) and I'm glad I did. It runs like new. I drive it 100 miles everyday to work and back. Yes, I take it on backwoods trails where I only see Jeeps. I average 45mpg, with the air-conditioning on (Houston, TX), and 70 of my daily miles are I-45 Freeway morning and evening traffic. I cruise at 75mph about half of that and the rest is bumper-to-bumper, stop-and-go. It is a standard 5 speed. I don't dog it, but I do drive it hard. I change the oil every 3,000 miles and at the same time pull the 3 plugs and clean them with a wire brush wheel on my grinder. I change the air filter every 3rd oil change, or 9,000 miles; but check it every time to see if it needs replacing sooner. When gas went up to over $3.00/gallon last summer everywhere I went people were asking my mileage. I told them 50 (I probably could if I wanted to and kept the AC off) and they couldn't get over it.
Don't fret over a few hundred dollars, just because somebody says you should find one cheaper. Generally, you get what you pay for. I don't want to spend my life on some blog trying to hunt down parts because my $1.00, Metro has me working on it all the time. You're a school boy. Get an education and chase girls. As for working on Metros, it can be fun to buy one cheap and fix it up or drive it 'till it needs fixing. If that blue '92 is in great shape, grab-it. You'll be glad you did. And, thanks for telling me how to upload a picture. Here's my '97, with 80,000+ miles now.
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/4858/dscn0022rb8.jpg

andrgo
02-23-2007, 07:18 PM
Thank you for your reply, Randy. You're welcome about the image uploading. You have one HELL of a nice Geo! :sunglasse I don't disagree with you that you got a steal for $3,000. When gas was $3.00, how much did it cost you fill the tank (and how often did you fill it)?

Unfortunately for me the blue Metro that I posted originally in the topic is no longer on CarSoup.com. I didn't make a move to buy it at the time it was for sale (I don't think I could have afford to though because that would have meants like three vehicles for me.)

Right now I've got a "choice" between three Metros:
- 1996 108k miles, 2-dr manual 4-cyl 1.3L, asking $1600
- 1996 133k miles, 2-dr manual 3-cyl 1.0L, asking $1200
- 1996 * ...

The last one there I don't know the specifics about, I'm assuming it's about $1,200ish and I know it's a '96, but the guy hasn't gotten back to me yet about it.

It's really tough deciding on one, not to buy but even just to look at. I'd rather look at the 1.0L one than the 1.3L one because it gets like 5+ more MPG (which really adds up to extra money over thousands of miles.) The guy that seems most motivated to sell and has answered all of my questions is the guy with the 1.3L, the one that gets the least mileage of them (which of course still isn't bad mileage.. it's just that it could be better with a 1.0L)

Lets just say I did get the 4-cylinder 1.3L, is there anything I could do to increase the MPG?
Like do these things (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SAVE-GAS-16-HP-Geo-Prizm-Metro-Tracker-31-MPG_W0QQitemZ330091428145QQihZ014QQcategoryZ42604Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)(<-- that's a link) actually work? Or is there anything else I could do to increase the mileage on a 4-cyl 1.3L if I got one?

GeoRandy
02-23-2007, 07:58 PM
andrgo,
I was just watching a TV show today that said most of those kinds of things are worthless. Scams, just somebody trying to get your hard earned money. I've seen them called by other names too but the air is probably not forced into the carb. fast enough to cause much spinning and do any real atomizing. I've also seen the magnets put on the fuel line that are supposed to give better fuel mileage (remember magnetic polarity from Jr. High science class) but they too are just hype. A friend told me once, "Don't believe anything you hear, and only half of what you see." Just like my 4x4 Geo picture and Judd's 4x4, they're not real (front wheel drive). Front wheel drive is good in the snow. My Metro handles sweeeet. The steering is tight, it has quick response and feels like it would be hard to roll. I drive over 500 miles to work and back weekly. Although the fuel tank will hold a whole 8 gallons (I wish it were more) the fuel guage indicates almost empty with 1.5 gallons left in the tank, so I usually top it off with 6.5 to 7.9 gallons for about $15.00 twice a week. Regular gas averages about $2.10/gallon for the past several months. I have tried to go past "E" as far as I dared and one time put 7.7 gallons in it. If I had a 14-15 gallon tank I would only have to fill up once every 500 miles, for about $30.00. Get the 1.0 liter, 3 banger if it looks good, and take care of it. I've never had a problem with my '97, not one, nothing.

andrgo
02-25-2007, 11:31 PM
Get the 1.0 liter, 3 banger if it looks good, and take care of it. I've never had a problem with my '97, not one, nothing.
Well, speaking of which the guy never called me back. :shakehead

I think I'm going to meet with the owner of the 1996 1.3L 4-cylinder manual this Friday or Saturday. He's going to be driving through my town so he said he would drive the car up if I wanted to see it.

I do have one question:
Lets say I bought the car - it's a 1.3 4-cyl, if I *really* wanted to, could I swap it with a 1.0L 3-cyl engine? And if so, would that engine have to be out of a Geo Metro or could it be any 1.0L 3-cyl engine as long as it's compatible?

Mike_Van
02-26-2007, 12:56 PM
I cannot tell you about what's involved in swapping a 4 cyl. for a 3, but in case you haven't yet checked it out, the following forum has some good reads about other mods to Geo/Suzuki's.

http://teamswift.net/

andrgo
02-26-2007, 01:47 PM
I cannot tell you about what's involved in swapping a 4 cyl. for a 3, but in case you haven't yet checked it out, the following forum has some good reads about other mods to Geo/Suzuki's.

http://teamswift.net/
So I take it that swapping a 4-cyl Metro motor for a 3-cyl is quite a challenge?

Thanks for the link, I'll give it a read.

Mike_Van
02-26-2007, 05:18 PM
What you'll likely find on that site is people doing the reverse of what you seek (3cyl to 4 cyl), but that should give you some idea.

My garage is not equipped, and my skills are not sufficient for me to even think about a swap/replacement, so my gauge of swap difficulty should not be any guide for you...

andrgo
03-02-2007, 08:31 PM
Well I guess I wont be looking at the '96 1.3L 4-cylinder Metro this weekend. The guy was a total prick on the phone the second time I talked to him. At first he was friendly and all, and then he started talking about how he didn't think I was worth his time because I didn't seem serious. He told me he thought I was just ditzing around and wasn't serious about buying his Metro. Apparently he thinks this because the last time I talked to him, I asked if it would be okay if I brought with my camera to take pictures of the car, he told me he had no problem with that, then on the second call to him today he just totally went off about it. What a jerk. The only reason why I wanted to take pictures of the car wasn't to "ditz around" but so that I could get visual-based opinions of the car by people I know, as well as on forums like this.

Oh well, it was a 1.3 4-cylinder anyway, not like it got the best mileage out of the Metro family.

:banghead:

It will be a f#$%ing miracle if I ever get one of these "Metro" things. I'm almost four months into my quest to find one and I just have the worst luck ever!

jon@af
03-02-2007, 08:47 PM
The "Report Post" feature is used to identify posts that are in breach of the user guidelines. Please do not use it because someone needs more input :smile:.

DOCTORBILL
03-03-2007, 08:42 PM
The Geo Metro is probably THE most easily repaired car ever made...

Anyone want to dispute that !?

I'll put my 2 cents in here and suggest you have a look at what I (a 64 year old
bozo) did with my '93 3 cyl Metro...

Have a look at these rather long threads if you have the time:

..................."That's the end of my '93 Metro....."
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=611713

After the folks on this Forum talked me into repairing the Head and replacing the
rings (NEVER did that before!)

..................."NOT the end of my '93 metro...Life after death! RINGS"
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t613410.html

My little Geo Metro now runs like brand new......

..............."The Flight of the PHOENIX !"
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=645309

I love telling the story to anyone who will listen!

Long story short - If I can repair a Geo Metro engine, then "a monkey with five fingers"
can repair a Geo Metro engine.....

Someone on this Forum called it a "Toy Car" - it is so easy to repair!

You can find parts everywhere in Wrecking Yards, "Pull-n-Save" yards and
on the Internet by mail....

Crvett69 repairs them by the thousands.....ask him!

I got 47 mpg before my #1 value burned out at 156,000 miles, I pulled the
head off (amazingly easy and simple), had it fixed at a local shop for $225,
replaced the rings myself without taking the engine out, and now the Geo
runs like a top.

I can now expect to get another 150,000 miles out of it at 45 mpg....
I grin as I zip past the gas stations!

Don't insure it for any value - just have PIP and Liability. If you crash it, the
Damned Insurance Companies will give you only the low Blue Book value....
Not worth insuring for collision. Just drive very defensively!

DoctorBill

Hesam
03-04-2007, 08:44 PM
I have 23 years car experience and personally have owned 96 cars.
For that price you can buy a nice Geo Prizm which is actually a Toyota Corolla with low miles and much more dependable than Metro.
Any 4 cylinder Toyota 1994 and up with under 80,000 miles can give you 4-5 years of low cost service.
On any car you own do this: Right away change the spark plugs with NGK-Irridium plugs. Make sure airfilter is clean and white and if they look old, change sparkplug wires with Borg-warner brand sold online.
My Aurora was giving 17mpg and after these minor changes it's doing 25.3mpg in highway, 21 city!

Metro Mighty Mouse
03-05-2007, 12:56 AM
Of course this ignores your original goal of optimum gas mileage. I also believe the cost of ownership would be very similar between the 2 vehicles. Finally, in my experience there is very little that goes wrong with the metro/ swift and the things that do are easily delt with.

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