Suspension woes -what gives?

Anyways, Ive recently just purchased a 96 Jimmy SLT. Apparently it has "passed" safety standards - with a balljoint and steering linkage supposedly fixed before the sale. However, Ive noticed that when I drive it on bumps I hear a clunk, almost from under the passenger side front. It doesnt necessarily make a noise on every bump on the road and Ive tried bouncing the strut to see, but I cannot reproduce the sound I was hearing while running. The exhaust is not loose either so I cant seem to pinpoint what it is that needs repairs.

Now, my question is - what sound would a worn balljoint on a Jimmy sound like? or could it be leaf springs that will need replacement?? There doesnt seem like any driveablitily issues just the occassional clunk that is quite loud.

Thanks!

Anyways, Ive recently just purchased a 96 Jimmy SLT. Apparently it has "passed" safety standards - with a balljoint and steering linkage supposedly fixed before the sale. However, Ive noticed that when I drive it on bumps I hear a clunk, almost from under the passenger side front. It doesnt necessarily make a noise on every bump on the road and Ive tried bouncing the strut to see, but I cannot reproduce the sound I was hearing while running. The exhaust is not loose either so I cant seem to pinpoint what it is that needs repairs.

Now, my question is - what sound would a worn balljoint on a Jimmy sound like? or could it be leaf springs that will need replacement?? There doesnt seem like any driveablitily issues just the occassional clunk that is quite loud.

Thanks!

The clunk is most likely a blown shock or a bushing in the front end. If it's a bushing it's most likely a sway bar related one (the bar that spans to both front tires to keep the truck level while turning corners). A worn balljoint would make the car act strangely (handling wise) on the road, it may clunk but by the time it's clinking you would be all over the road. If you really want to test for bad balljoints jack the tire up so it's off the ground (secure the truck accordingly) put one hand ontop of the tire and one below (make sure it's on jack stands, it'd suck coming down on your fingers I assure you) and push the top in and the bottom out and vise versa (wiggle the tire top and bottom). It's hard to explain but I'm sure you know what I mean, there should be no play, if there's play then you have a worn balljoint(s) and they need replacement. When did you buy the truck? If you bought it very recently and the balljoints have play in them and are finished bring it back to the guy\shop who "safetied" it for you and tell them they sold you an unsafe vehicle and that they better fix it up as they can lose their license for that kinda crap. Of course the last part is up to you on that one.

PS: to test for a blown shock the best method is one of two ways, step on the front bumper and push it down, it should spring down and back up but stop after that, it shouldn't bounce up and down like a rubber ball, if it does then the shocks are blown. That method doesn't always produce results depending on the vehicle and whether or not both shocks are blown, the best way to check is to look at the lower shock body, if there is ANY oil dripping out of the top half, or oil stains from where it ran down the body then they are finished.

The clunk is most likely a blown shock or a bushing in the front end. If it's a bushing it's most likely a sway bar related one (the bar that spans to both front tires to keep the truck level while turning corners). A worn balljoint would make the car act strangely (handling wise) on the road, it may clunk but by the time it's clinking you would be all over the road. If you really want to test for bad balljoints jack the tire up so it's off the ground (secure the truck accordingly) put one hand ontop of the tire and one below (make sure it's on jack stands, it'd suck coming down on your fingers I assure you) and push the top in and the bottom out and vise versa (wiggle the tire top and bottom). It's hard to explain but I'm sure you know what I mean, there should be no play, if there's play then you have a worn balljoint(s) and they need replacement. When did you buy the truck? If you bought it very recently and the balljoints have play in them and are finished bring it back to the guy\shop who "safetied" it for you and tell them they sold you an unsafe vehicle and that they better fix it up as they can lose their license for that kinda crap. Of course the last part is up to you on that one.

PS: to test for a blown shock the best method is one of two ways, step on the front bumper and push it down, it should spring down and back up but stop after that, it shouldn't bounce up and down like a rubber ball, if it does then the shocks are blown. That method doesn't always produce results depending on the vehicle and whether or not both shocks are blown, the best way to check is to look at the lower shock body, if there is ANY oil dripping out of the top half, or oil stains from where it ran down the body then they are finished.

Thankyou, good news it was a worn balljoint. after hours of extensive examination where the sound was coming from - thought it was anything from a bushing, broken frame, strut, strut mount,...etc. I drove it hard on an uneven surface and soon enough I heard something snap! and expected the worst. I saw a crack on the underside of the balljoint... I just replaced it today and the problem is gone.

The worst part was getting the original balljoints out. It was riveted on... grinded it out and after a couple of hard labour hours got the new one on.

Thanks!

[QUOTE=CanukGMC] ...If you really want to test for bad balljoints jack the tire up so it's off the ground (secure the truck accordingly) put one hand ontop of the tire and one below (make sure it's on jack stands, it'd suck coming down on your fingers I assure you) and push the top in and the bottom out and vise versa (wiggle the tire top and bottom). It's hard to explain but I'm sure you know what I mean, there should be no play, if there's play then you have a worn balljoint(s) and they need replacement...

Just to clarify... When lifting the vehicle by the frame or body, that method works well for inspecting wheel bearings. However, lifting the frame or body will not unload the ball joint. The lower ball joint is the load bearing joint and it must be unloaded to inspect it. To inspect it, the lower control arm must be supported near the ball joint with the tire off of the ground. Use a pry bar between the ground and the tire to lift the tire and check for play in the joint. Tolerance specifications can be found in the repair manual and play is considered acceptable up to .125" (1/8"). Excessive play in a lower ball joint makes it impossible for alignment adjustments to remain where they are set. Camber and caster angles are the position of the upper ball joint in relationship to the lower ball joint. If the ball moves in the socket, not only will camber and caster change, but toe in also changes. Obviously zero play in a ball joint is best.

Just for laughs and giggles Jimmy96er you might also check the bushing that holds the driver's side of the crossmember that the rear of the tortion bars are housed in. If that bushing was seperated you will get a sporatic thumb or bang on uneven roads or surfaces. Its easy to check just put a jack under the crossmember and put some pressure on it. if it raises with out the rest of the jimmy is has seperated and will need to be replaced. Just a thought.
Nick