pcv valve clicking at idle
sbiddle
02-25-2006, 08:43 PM
I have a '96 metro, 1.3 liter engine that I just swapped motors on. Engine runs great, no problems except that the PCV valve makes a clicking sound occacionally at idle. Is this normal?
Crvett69
02-25-2006, 11:12 PM
you sure its the pcv valve and not the injector right next to it?
sbiddle
02-26-2006, 06:26 AM
you sure its the pcv valve and not the injector right next to it?
I'm sure because I can pull it out of the valve cover and cover the end and make the sound go away. Other than that the PCV valve works in that it acts like a check valve one way and passes fumes the other way.
I'm sure because I can pull it out of the valve cover and cover the end and make the sound go away. Other than that the PCV valve works in that it acts like a check valve one way and passes fumes the other way.
sbiddle
02-27-2006, 10:53 AM
How is the idle? I would run some Rislone or ATF through in the engine for a couple hundred miles to see if your problem is related to sticking rings or valves.
DieInterim
The engine idle is very smooth. It produces good power and no smoke. I take if from your response that it is NOT normal to hear clicking at idle?
DieInterim
The engine idle is very smooth. It produces good power and no smoke. I take if from your response that it is NOT normal to hear clicking at idle?
sbiddle
03-03-2006, 08:18 AM
Upon further inspection, the sound is not from the PCV valve as previously thought. The tapping noise is coming from under the valve cover. Furthermore, it doesn't only happen at idle, it just sounds more noticable because there is less engine background noise. It doesn't happen all the time, it comes and goes. This has hydraulic tappets since it's a '96, so they aren't adjustable.
Should I try some magic potion in the crankcase? Or, I do have a blown engine with a good head. Would it be a good idea to swap the rocker arms and tappens from the good head. It looks like that can be done without removing the camshaft.
All thoughts and ideas greatly appreciated!
Should I try some magic potion in the crankcase? Or, I do have a blown engine with a good head. Would it be a good idea to swap the rocker arms and tappens from the good head. It looks like that can be done without removing the camshaft.
All thoughts and ideas greatly appreciated!
DOCTORBILL
03-04-2006, 12:46 PM
What weight oil are you using?
I put straight 30 weight in my '93 1.0 L, 3 cylinder Metro once and the lifters clicked.
Same thing happens in my Jeep Cherokee with heavier weight oil.
Somewhere on this forum several months ago, we covered this.
I remember someone said that any heavier oil is too viscous to go thru the SMALL oil
holes in the Hydaulic Lifters and so they 'clickity-clack.'
Mine clacked immediately that I put 30 weight in the engine - so I drained it and put in
5W-30 and the clicking stopped immediately and never returned.
Maybe your problem - maybe not.
I also add one cup (8 ounces) of Automatic Transmission Fluid to the oil once in a
while to up the "detergent" quality of the oil to clean out those small oil holes in the
lifters. It works!
DoctorBill
I put straight 30 weight in my '93 1.0 L, 3 cylinder Metro once and the lifters clicked.
Same thing happens in my Jeep Cherokee with heavier weight oil.
Somewhere on this forum several months ago, we covered this.
I remember someone said that any heavier oil is too viscous to go thru the SMALL oil
holes in the Hydaulic Lifters and so they 'clickity-clack.'
Mine clacked immediately that I put 30 weight in the engine - so I drained it and put in
5W-30 and the clicking stopped immediately and never returned.
Maybe your problem - maybe not.
I also add one cup (8 ounces) of Automatic Transmission Fluid to the oil once in a
while to up the "detergent" quality of the oil to clean out those small oil holes in the
lifters. It works!
DoctorBill
sbiddle
03-04-2006, 02:00 PM
Problem Solved!
I got smart and probed for the clicking noise with a stethiscope. Turns out it was the canister purge control valve solenoid making the clicking sound. It sits right behind the valve cover so it sounds just like a tappet. From my blown engine I swapped out the solenoid and all is well.
Thanks for all the help and advice.
I got smart and probed for the clicking noise with a stethiscope. Turns out it was the canister purge control valve solenoid making the clicking sound. It sits right behind the valve cover so it sounds just like a tappet. From my blown engine I swapped out the solenoid and all is well.
Thanks for all the help and advice.
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