1991 metro cranks but won't start - Mystery

This car is a mystery for the tech's out there. Car will crank but won't start. I have checked the timing belt and it is fine, removed the distributor cap and the rotor turns. I have sparks going to all 3 cylinders and I replaced all sparkpugs with brand new one. I am getting gas as well when I removed the plugs and crank the car I can see gas in the 3 cylinders as well. While cranking the car the engine would chuckle sometimes indicating as if it wants to start but then continues to crank. I checked all fuses and they look O.K. to me. Can someone please shed some light.

Thanks,
Rich

This car is a mystery for the tech's out there. Car will crank but won't start. I have checked the timing belt and it is fine, removed the distributor cap and the rotor turns. I have sparks going to all 3 cylinders and I replaced all sparkpugs with brand new one. I am getting gas as well when I removed the plugs and crank the car I can see gas in the 3 cylinders as well. While cranking the car the engine would chuckle sometimes indicating as if it wants to start but then continues to crank. I checked all fuses and they look O.K. to me. Can someone please shed some light.

Thanks,
Rich

How strong is the spark to the cylinders? If it is a good, clean spark do a compression check and make sure they are even and above 100psi, much less than that and the cylinder drops out and it becomes hard to start. Also check the timing and make sure it is correct. If those both check out start advancing the timing to see if you can get it to fire, once it's running you can try to figure out what the problem is. If the timing is off one possibility is the timing belt jumped a notch.

good luck

Thanks Blake, BTW it's all your fault ---- I spent over $60 to get the factory manual off ebay because of the information you were getting out of it. Allready had the Chiltons for my car and the Haynes for the previous models. BAH....It'll be worth it though.

Rich,

What where & how was your car running before this happened. Any recent work? Metro Mouse is right about the compression test first.

DieInterim
it happened to me once I put new plgs (AUTOLITE) and car didnot start put NGK plugs old one back was fine try your old plugs if you still have them ,if notget NGK.also check wires from ignition coil to disturbutor on both end ,,also trraped moistre under cap is another killer,take the cap off and if wet use hair drierput back on,another one might be the the plug with white end from dist assembly make sure it,s tightly connected,if none of these works onthe passenger side there is a fuse box,there is to relay one for fuel pump and the other for fuel injectorthat could be your problem there are three fuses the red one 30 ampis for head light,buct check the other two must be yellow and green ,40and 60 amp,also if you put the wires back ward the car won,t start.they go1,2,3 clockwise,NO one usually on top and it,s numbered on the cap,good luck ,and let us know when the car start,and what your problem was ,so we learn too

does yours have a crank sensor on the oil pan?

does yours have a crank sensor on the oil pan? no mine is 91

Richieh1969,
I'm new at this so bear with me. I just finished repairing a 1996 1.3L 4-cylinder with the same symptoms. Chevy service couldn't figure it out. The crankshaft pulley was loose enough that the woodruff key wore out. Not enough to keep it from turning, but causing the timing to be off far enough that it wouldn't start. It had me scratching my head too. Remove the passenger side tire and splash shield. Turn the crank manually using a wrench. If the pulley turns at all without turning the crank, the key is damaged. That is how I found the problem. Remove the belts. Remove the crank pulley. Remove the timing belt cover. You could probably do this with the belt cover in place, but it helps to inspect the damage. On mine, the crankshaft was damaged enough to need repair or replacement. But this car was not worth it. The timing sprocket was damaged and I bought one at the dealer for $45. The key was .25 but the guy at Napa gave it to me free. I mixed up some JB Weld and put it in the slot for the key. Put the key in and more JB over it. Replaced the timing belt cover. Slid the new sprocket on over the key. Replaced all the belts. Let it sit for a week before starting it. It has been running great for a couple months now. Good luck!

I think our problem might be similiar. My thread is two just below yours in the metro forum titled: "coil pack or....?" Take a look and we can compare potential solutions. jd

You may also check your ECT Sensor. Mine was very hard starting, without it being up to snuff. Check for codes, with the fuse in the diagnostics socket.

If that checks out fine, check the fuel pressure. and make sure return line is completely open. There is a section of hose, that would likely kink, where the metal lines on the tank and the car frame are spliced together. Once a kink starts, the pressure can build and close it off tighter, causing the pressure to build up to 60+ psi.

did you check the trouble codes. I have a 93 metro and the pickup coil in the dist. went bad. I repplaced it and it started right up. But it went bad again. so you might want to check to make sure there isnt something else wrong that is making that bad.