Just noticed: transmission line crimps leaking
redly1
12-10-2005, 11:43 PM
I was under the van (03 montana) changing the engine oil tonight, and I noticed drips from the crimps on the transmission hoses (just inside the front bumper.
I had a 93 Olds Silhoutte, and had the pleasure of experiencing one of those crimps failing. I drove about two miles. Came to a stop light, and it took off funny. it was snowy, so I discounted it as a slick road. I got to work (another mile) and the trans just went numb, like the van was in neutral. Later (in another vehicle, hahaha), I went back to the stoplight, and saw a big red pool of tranny fluid.
Anyway, what are the odds this will happen with my 03 Montana?
38xxx miles
I had a 93 Olds Silhoutte, and had the pleasure of experiencing one of those crimps failing. I drove about two miles. Came to a stop light, and it took off funny. it was snowy, so I discounted it as a slick road. I got to work (another mile) and the trans just went numb, like the van was in neutral. Later (in another vehicle, hahaha), I went back to the stoplight, and saw a big red pool of tranny fluid.
Anyway, what are the odds this will happen with my 03 Montana?
38xxx miles
1999montana
12-11-2005, 10:16 AM
....I noticed drips from the crimps on the transmission hoses....
I replaced both hoses on mine last year for $50. I thought mine was a fluke, but it would seem that there appears to be a general defect in the manufacture of these hoses.
The fitting end is supposed to be swedged into the crimp fitting that attachs to the hose, but for some reason it swivels inside and, of course leaks. I have the original hoses up on the shelf.
We are not talking about significant line pressure here, but notice that the crimps are similar to those used on the high pressure side of conventional power steering in GM cars from 1980 up. Don't know why, seems like over-kill.
If the new set fail, this is what I plan to do:
1) Cut the fitting end off flush with the crimp
2) Using a brake-line flare tool, make a flare in the open end of the pipe so that when clamped, the hose can not slide off.
3) re-attach the hose (or new hose) to the fitting and use small screw type clamps to attach to the trans and pipe fitting.
Problem solved for about $5.00 I think and a 1/2 hour of my time.
.
I replaced both hoses on mine last year for $50. I thought mine was a fluke, but it would seem that there appears to be a general defect in the manufacture of these hoses.
The fitting end is supposed to be swedged into the crimp fitting that attachs to the hose, but for some reason it swivels inside and, of course leaks. I have the original hoses up on the shelf.
We are not talking about significant line pressure here, but notice that the crimps are similar to those used on the high pressure side of conventional power steering in GM cars from 1980 up. Don't know why, seems like over-kill.
If the new set fail, this is what I plan to do:
1) Cut the fitting end off flush with the crimp
2) Using a brake-line flare tool, make a flare in the open end of the pipe so that when clamped, the hose can not slide off.
3) re-attach the hose (or new hose) to the fitting and use small screw type clamps to attach to the trans and pipe fitting.
Problem solved for about $5.00 I think and a 1/2 hour of my time.
.
redly1
12-11-2005, 11:38 AM
I replaced both hoses on mine last year for $50.
.
curious...where did you get the replacement hoses?
.
curious...where did you get the replacement hoses?
1999montana
12-11-2005, 12:50 PM
curious...where did you get the replacement hoses?
From your Genuine GM Junk dealer, of course!
That's $50 CDN, or about $15 in real money!
From your Genuine GM Junk dealer, of course!
That's $50 CDN, or about $15 in real money!
redly1
02-22-2006, 10:00 PM
From your Genuine GM Junk dealer, of course!
That's $50 CDN, or about $15 in real money!
haha, I read that as the ACTUAL GM dealer. $93 for one hose, $78 for the other.
Yikes! off to the junk yard to get hosed
That's $50 CDN, or about $15 in real money!
haha, I read that as the ACTUAL GM dealer. $93 for one hose, $78 for the other.
Yikes! off to the junk yard to get hosed
1999montana
02-23-2006, 09:06 AM
haha, I read that as the ACTUAL GM dealer. $93 for one hose, $78 for the other.
Yikes! off to the junk yard to get hosed
I think you are getting 'hosed' by your Genuine GM junk dealer.
I'd shop around, autozone, etc and see what prices develop.
These hoses are about $25.00 each here in Canada; can't imagine them being more in the US.
I don't see the point in spending a half hour to remove old worn-out hoses at the junker only to repeat the problem due to a defect in manufacture.
Yikes! off to the junk yard to get hosed
I think you are getting 'hosed' by your Genuine GM junk dealer.
I'd shop around, autozone, etc and see what prices develop.
These hoses are about $25.00 each here in Canada; can't imagine them being more in the US.
I don't see the point in spending a half hour to remove old worn-out hoses at the junker only to repeat the problem due to a defect in manufacture.
cdru
02-23-2006, 11:47 AM
Or visit a transmission shop. They may be able to make you one or fix the one you currently have, putting a new end on it.
1999montana
02-23-2006, 12:43 PM
Or visit a transmission shop. They may be able to make you one or fix the one you currently have, putting a new end on it.
OR, try cutting the tubing at the crimp, retaining the tubing and fitting end that attaches to the trans, flare the tubing end as suggested below (do it to both hoses).
You'll note that the end that attaches to the rad uses a clamp already. I see no reason why both ends can't be attached in this manner, provided the rubber hose is prevented from slipping off the tubing end with a flare.
(I'd use new hose, - recommend cutting it long enough to cover the distance with just about 3/4" to 1" to spare; - allows for any movement when the engine torgues).
A Saturday 1-hour project, I would think.
Should fix it once and for all.
OR, try cutting the tubing at the crimp, retaining the tubing and fitting end that attaches to the trans, flare the tubing end as suggested below (do it to both hoses).
You'll note that the end that attaches to the rad uses a clamp already. I see no reason why both ends can't be attached in this manner, provided the rubber hose is prevented from slipping off the tubing end with a flare.
(I'd use new hose, - recommend cutting it long enough to cover the distance with just about 3/4" to 1" to spare; - allows for any movement when the engine torgues).
A Saturday 1-hour project, I would think.
Should fix it once and for all.
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