intake or head gaskets?

I had a slow leak (internal) in my 3.4L 98 Montana that I corrected (albiet temporarily) a couple of years ago with tabs. However, this month my wife started the van and got a head noise which sounded like a stuck lifter. I looked under the oil cap I found that the oil was jelled (brownish orange in color). I added a quart of oil (even though it wasn't that low) and it quieted up. The coolant reservoir dropped as well (I refilled it).

As best I can guess the following is happening. Somehow, coolant is leaking into the engine and mixing with the oil. The oil is gelling and as its viscocity is changing the engine is loosing protection.

I've read several posts in this forum (I'm new to this forum) and I see several references to the intake gasket being the culprit. Then others say that the head gaskets are the culprit. Coolant in the oil, but what's the cause?

I'm not sure how much money I want to put into this vehicle. The dealer wants $1100-$1400 to replace head gaskets or $800 for the intake. I called Pontiac and they will let me know by Tuesday if they are willing to honor my request for a goodwill warranty on the intake gasket (the van is now 7 years old with 116K on it and out of warranty, so I'm thinking they will not, but it's worth a shot).

Also, do they make a 3.4L intake installation kit? I talked to the local auto parts store and they are only able to order the 3.8L kit.

Thanks for the help.

Based on your description I believe you have an intake manifold gasket problem. I would have it corrected as soon as possible since you are getting water into the oil you are going to destroy the bearings if you don't do something soon. These engines are notorious for intake gasket problems. You should be able to purchase a gasket from aftermarket suppliers but if not you should be able to purchase one from a dealer. You can also try rock-auto.com or gmpartsdirect.com. If you purchase a good service manual this job can by done at home for the cost of the gasket kit, oil change and a couple of beers!

For many parts, aftermarket is usually just as good if not better then OEM. However for the intake gaskets I always recommend OEM. There have been enough problems, both aftermarket and OEM with these gaskets that you really want to get the latest revision. Going the OEM route should get you the latest version. There should be little metal spacing inserts on each end near the bolt holes with the latest version.

You don't necessarily have to pay OEM prices though...Rock Auto may have the OEM gaskets, or you can go with a discounted OEM dealer like GMPArtsDirect.com

Thanks Fellas. I tried the whole appealing to GM thing for the goodwill warranty and they are supposed to get back to me with a decision today. If that doesn't go through, I'll probably get the factory service manual and the gasket and fix it myself.

Do either of you know what other parts I should replace while doing the intake gasket? Anything along the way that's worth replacing?

I could not find an intake gasket on gmpartsdirect but at rockauto.com they have three choices.

1. Fel-pro OHV engine upper set incl. intake gasket $42
2. Corteco intake manifold set (intake gasket) $43
3. Fel-Pro Complete Set. Valve cover gaskets and upper set included. PermaDry intake manifold gaskets included $65

I haven't seen the manual yet, but I would think that you can leave the valve covers on during the repair? Right. Would you guys consider buying a Fel-Pro or Corteco gasket?

Again, thanks for the help.

First, as to the shop manual, be sure to check out eBay from time to time. Usually they go for around $30-50. Make sure that the set includes all 3 books.

With the intake manifold off, there are quite a few things that you have easy access to. Right off the top of my head, things to get are:
Spark plugs (and wires) (6 each)
injector o-rings (optional 6 or 12 depending on if you want to take the injectors of the fuel rail)
oil pump drive shaft o-ring (old one dries out and will leak - its on the oil pump drive shaft...look for the silver "cap" under the throttle body)
bypass pipe o-ring (1 just beneith bleeder screw near water pump)
heater core pipe o-ring (rigid pipe that is inserted into t-stat housing)
all the hose clamps for heater core(s) hoses (much easier to get at now...forget how many)
valve cover gaskets (2)
intake manifold gaskets (duh) (4 total - 2 lower, 2 upper)
throttle body coolant line hose clamps (4)
antifreeze (2 gallons)
Black RTV sealant
thermostat
egr gaskets (2)
lower intake manifold short bolts (4 outside bolts)
lower intake manifold long bolts (4 inside bolts)
oil (9 qts)
filter (2x) (I'd do two oil changes, one right away, then another a few hundred miles later to get anything that may be remaining)

In case you haven't already found it, check out these two threads for more information as well as some tips and things to watch out for:
Intake Gasket Main Page (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=321467&page=1&pp=15)
More Overheating (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=372853&highlight=overheating) (more head gasket related, but still requires many of the same steps)

There is a couple of links on the 2nd page of the Intake manifold link above for offical part numbers. They may have been revised though.

You shouldn't need any special tools. A crow's foot will make things a lot easier for 2 of the outside lower bolts. The casting gets in the way of sockets and there isn't enough clearance for open end wrenches.

Honestly I wouldn't go with the felpro gasket. I did that about this time last year, and did the intake AGAIN earlier this spring. It wasn't the revised gasket that came out in 2002. The part number for the intake gasket is 89017279. GMPartsDirect has this (search by part number) for $35. Even if you pay the full dealer price of $60, it's not that much more then any of the non-OEM prices. Be sure whatever you do that you are getting all 4 gaskets (2 upper, 2 lower).

And you will have to remove the valve covers. You have to take off the rocker arms as well as the push rods. They slide through the intake gasket and you can't take off the gasket with out removing them. Get a cereal box or something similar and punch holes in it as you remove the rods and rockers. You MUST make sure you get them back in the same order that they came out of.

Wow. I couldn't ask for a better response. I guess I have some reading to do! Thanks again.

Wow. I couldn't ask for a better response. I guess I have some reading to do! Thanks again.You could have asked for pictures. :) If you have any questions, feel free to post them here or PM me.