d16y8 head porting

are there any links or information that anyone has on cylinder head porting. i have recently purchaced a used head and am going to rebuild and port the head along with a deck resurfacing and hot tank wash before the build up. any information or tutorials (step by step process) would be VERY helpful. i already have a die grinder but need to get the bits soon. thanks.

Take the die grinder and smooth out the intake passageways. Don't clear a whole lot of material, but take away the rough edges and port match the intake and the block. If you don't know how, i would suggest having someone show you in person.

yeah, i guess i figured that much and i have seen pics of examples and stuff, just wanted to know if there was any info out there that i was over looking or step by step instructions that someone has that they would like to share.

Take the die grinder and smooth out the intake passageways. Don't clear a whole lot of material, but take away the rough edges and port match the intake and the block. If you don't know how, i would suggest having someone show you in person.

wow. um no.
first off u want the "dimples" on the passages on the intake ports. they help the fuel stay suspended in the air. so after u port the intake passages, don't polish them, leave them a little rough inside.
second, u'r gonna port match the intake manifold to the HEAD not the block.
third, if u'r porting the intake side of the head, u could make them ten foot wide, but if u don't touch the exhaust side, then it won't make a damn bit of difference. so, u'll also want to port the exhaust passages too. those u do want to polish the passages, because u won't need to keep fuel suspended in the air (cuz it better be burned already).

but one thing was right. if u don't know how have sumone else do it for u, and they should be able to let u watch so u can learn the basics. keep in mind porting and polishing a head is an art not a science.

sumthin else to consider; honda heads really don't gain much efficiency from porting. they already flow very efficiently. it's prolly not worth the money unless u can find sumone to do it for dirt cheap, and still do it right.

edit: i forgot to mention, u'll also want to port match the header to the exhaust ports.

haha, yeah. i was hoping i would get some better info than that other dude posted. i was like "what, port the block?" i dunno mannnnnn. anyway, i plan on starting when the weather gets nice and i can open up my garage, its frikkin cold out there now. i have a pretty good idea of what i want to do, not removing much material at all, just a basic dimple job and matching the intake and exhaust. have all tools and specs figured. need to get it disassembled and off to the machine shop to have the deck faced and hot tanked. i would say by july or aug i should have the whole thing built. i also plan on a cam, cam gear, high performance springs and retainers plus some valves (since it didnt come with any from the person i picked it up from. ill post some pics of the progress when i get going on it. peace.
dave

thats cool, i agree with hondaluvr2000, u never want to polish the intake side, and for diy, i wouldn't recommend, i just had sum guy do mine, and u should do the cam as well, because the stock cam w/ a p&p isn't going to do much, springs i also highly recommend, even with a stg1 cam you'll valve float around 7600(if u have a chip,or ems,) because with a cam, u'll need to add more fuel, and a fpr,and rail wont cut it with a stock ecu..cause it'll just end up cuttin out the injectors once the o2's read that the eg's are rich...
but for the most part i was told porting and polishing the y8 head was pretty tricky because of how small the ports were to get down near the valves

ok, so if when i upgrade the cam and springs, then do fuel system upgrades (the pressure reg and rail) your saying its going to trigger a bad reading with o2 sensors and the whole job will be useless without like a hondata tune? i was trying to avoid that because with my car i have to buy a harnes and piggy back a different ecu (from what i gathered using their site) and it would cost sick ammounts of $$. would it be sound to do the hondata tuning first (fork the cash up) and then do the fuel upgrades and head build as i can financialy? what do you reccomend in my case?

hahaha so i screwed up and wrote port match the head and block....whooopidee doo. I meant port match the head and the manifold that corresponds to that side. And BTW your info was exactly what i said except you made it sound a little fancier. Why not polish....haven't you ever heard of polishing the heads??? You can go ahead and leave your heads all rough, but i like to make some power in my car so i'm going to do it my way.

ok so i have checked out hondata a bit more thoroughly and for the set up ( hondata s100, p28 ecu + obd2 connector "no adapter" and the hondata socketing) it would cost about $760 beans. thats not too bad but im guessing that the tuning (dyno runs and programming) is the expensive part or am i wrong. anyone know what that might cost when i bring it to the dealer to get this all tuned once i purchase it?

anyone?

i just port and polished my 91 honda std 16 valve 70hp head and i just got a lot more power out of that poor poor engine. I gained some very impressive rpm and top end horsepower i can now take my d15 to 8000 rpm. I have also done some checking on some stuff. i have also done the mpfi swap over. If you are giong to do the mpfi get a si camshaft at least because if you dont you will lose all the power for sure but that is if you have the standard civic. The dx will be perfect for the swap. i gained some very impressive rpm and top end horsepower i can now take my d15 to 8000 rpm.

i have the d16y8 motor. rebuilding the head is sidelined while i get the suspension done. but when i do the head im gonna get it professionaly ported and tested with a flow bench. found this company online called KMS engines and they do a port job, 5 angle valve job and deck surfacing for $425. all you have to do is supply the parts (valves, springs, cam, retainers, ect.) and they will also assemble it. i decided to let them install new cam seal and valve seal guides. they said if i purchase the valve springs and retainers from them they would throw them in to the package. thought it was a good deal so i think im gonna go with KMS. They also flow test it with a flowbench. The pics posted on their site of the work they do is immaculate. but all that wont happen untill my suspension and rims.

i jsut ported and polished my head and replaced the cam with an si and the power increase was great. Not only do i have low end but I also have a good amount of top end. I can take it up to 7500 rpm with out a problem. The little ole std civic is starting to growl. I have just the d15 70hp engine in it still but i have done a few things to it since i got it.

Your best of leaving the porting & polishings to the pro's. But you can get a little improvement doing it yourself.

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm - porting link

These are very nice head packages, http://www.mmrusa.com/gudehead.htm