95 cirrus stalls when I come to a stop
stewart711
12-28-2004, 05:08 PM
Hello
Driving at highway speed the engine will "hic-cup" (feels like ignition is cut for a split second). Egine stalls when I come to a stop. Seems like hard deceleration will cause it to happen more frequently. The car will stall during morning warmup and sometimes it doesn't. The above just started happening 3 months ago. I thought it was bad gas at first, but I am now several tankfuls from that. I still drive the car daily, in 1 hour worth of driving the above will happen two or three times. As of now it always restarts after a stall. I haven't run the flash code because I don't have much faith in it.
I would appreciate any help
Stewart711
Driving at highway speed the engine will "hic-cup" (feels like ignition is cut for a split second). Egine stalls when I come to a stop. Seems like hard deceleration will cause it to happen more frequently. The car will stall during morning warmup and sometimes it doesn't. The above just started happening 3 months ago. I thought it was bad gas at first, but I am now several tankfuls from that. I still drive the car daily, in 1 hour worth of driving the above will happen two or three times. As of now it always restarts after a stall. I haven't run the flash code because I don't have much faith in it.
I would appreciate any help
Stewart711
stewart711
01-14-2005, 08:19 PM
Turns out that it needed a new ECM (computer).
sailher
01-18-2005, 07:43 AM
Turns out that it needed a new ECM (computer).
We have a '96 that is doing the same thing. What did the ECM run?
We have a '96 that is doing the same thing. What did the ECM run?
stewart711
01-18-2005, 04:35 PM
Hello Sailher
I went to a shop, I paid $311 (dealer list I'm sure) for the ECM and another $300.00 for labor. It's only the 3rd time in 43 years of life that I had to do it. They said the ECM thought the engine was too cold and would flood it.
Stewart711
I went to a shop, I paid $311 (dealer list I'm sure) for the ECM and another $300.00 for labor. It's only the 3rd time in 43 years of life that I had to do it. They said the ECM thought the engine was too cold and would flood it.
Stewart711
Miketike2
01-20-2005, 12:55 PM
humm i am having a simular problem ? my check engine light keeps comming on even after service? than it now says my door is not shut and the car goes crazy when u go above 35mph because the car dings 20 times a sec and the locks lock and keep locking like there is a door open but non are so now hers the real problem lol the lights stay on i had to pop them out? think sumttin fried in the computer? do u think i need a new computer in it? its still under warentiy and i dont want a messed up car for my first car!
stewart711
01-20-2005, 08:43 PM
Hello Miketike2
The first expensive repair on this car was the PCM (powertrain computer) at 80k miles. Now its the ECM at 99k miles. Too bad no flash code says "Hey the computer is bad". Miketike2 I'm behind the times even with a 95 car, I can only repair the hard parts so I cannot advise you.
Stewart711
The first expensive repair on this car was the PCM (powertrain computer) at 80k miles. Now its the ECM at 99k miles. Too bad no flash code says "Hey the computer is bad". Miketike2 I'm behind the times even with a 95 car, I can only repair the hard parts so I cannot advise you.
Stewart711
theFREAKnasty82
01-20-2005, 11:03 PM
humm i am having a simular problem ? my check engine light keeps comming on even after service? than it now says my door is not shut and the car goes crazy when u go above 35mph because the car dings 20 times a sec and the locks lock and keep locking like there is a door open but non are so now hers the real problem lol the lights stay on i had to pop them out? think sumttin fried in the computer? do u think i need a new computer in it? its still under warentiy and i dont want a messed up car for my first car!
You have a bad BCM, which stands for Body Control Module; it controls the dash lights, HVAC unit and mode doors, door chime etc. If you have multiple problems, you have a bad unit.
You have a bad BCM, which stands for Body Control Module; it controls the dash lights, HVAC unit and mode doors, door chime etc. If you have multiple problems, you have a bad unit.
Drama
01-29-2005, 11:25 AM
Here is my problem. My 1995 Cirrus shuts down when I am braking/slowing down. I can restart it immediately after it shuts down (happens mostly when approaching a traffic light). After I start it again it runs just fine. This happens every 2-3 days. I thought it was fuel related problem, so I changed fuel filter, but this did not solve my problem. It's getting very frustrating. Suggestions anybody? Thanks
Drama
Drama
theFREAKnasty82
01-29-2005, 04:46 PM
Here is my problem. My 1995 Cirrus shuts down when I am braking/slowing down. I can restart it immediately after it shuts down (happens mostly when approaching a traffic light). After I start it again it runs just fine. This happens every 2-3 days. I thought it was fuel related problem, so I changed fuel filter, but this did not solve my problem. It's getting very frustrating. Suggestions anybody? Thanks
Drama
You have a bad torque converter clutch solenoid. It's causing your engine to stall because the clutch is not releasing inside your torque converter. With the transmission you have, the 41TE transmission, the entire solenoid assembly has to be replaced.
Drama
You have a bad torque converter clutch solenoid. It's causing your engine to stall because the clutch is not releasing inside your torque converter. With the transmission you have, the 41TE transmission, the entire solenoid assembly has to be replaced.
Drama
01-30-2005, 11:31 AM
Thanks for your response theFREAKnasty82. Is this something I could change or do I have to bring the car to the shop? What charges can I expect if car needs to go to the shop?
Drama
Drama
theFREAKnasty82
01-31-2005, 11:08 PM
Thanks for your response theFREAKnasty82. Is this something I could change or do I have to bring the car to the shop? What charges can I expect if car needs to go to the shop?
Drama
The best thing you can is when you're driving down the road, before you come to a stop, put the transmission in neutral. Thus it won't stall. If it DOES stall, then you have another problem. If all is when, when the light turns green, go back to drive and go from there, cheapest way "fix" that problem. But as far as the cost of the solenoid, it'll run you $200.
Drama
The best thing you can is when you're driving down the road, before you come to a stop, put the transmission in neutral. Thus it won't stall. If it DOES stall, then you have another problem. If all is when, when the light turns green, go back to drive and go from there, cheapest way "fix" that problem. But as far as the cost of the solenoid, it'll run you $200.
IngrJust
09-16-2016, 09:43 PM
Here is my problem. My 1995 Cirrus shuts down when I am braking/slowing down. I can restart it immediately after it shuts down (happens mostly when approaching a traffic light). After I start it again it runs just fine. This happens every 2-3 days. I thought it was fuel related problem, so I changed fuel filter, but this did not solve my problem. It's getting very frustrating. Suggestions anybody? Thanks
I'm having the same exact problem only difference is mine stalls on the highway. When I go to restart it is know it'll start but when I see the RMPs start going up as I start the car but i know the car wont start again if tge RPMs Guage doesn't move at alleast but the car is trying to turn over it just won't fire up. Also when car does run it runs cold like one line below the middle line. One other thing I realized ishe that red light stays on until I shut the car off almost as like it's a sign that something is wrong. It's that red light that comes on when you have no more engine oil. This car is a nightmare
I'm having the same exact problem only difference is mine stalls on the highway. When I go to restart it is know it'll start but when I see the RMPs start going up as I start the car but i know the car wont start again if tge RPMs Guage doesn't move at alleast but the car is trying to turn over it just won't fire up. Also when car does run it runs cold like one line below the middle line. One other thing I realized ishe that red light stays on until I shut the car off almost as like it's a sign that something is wrong. It's that red light that comes on when you have no more engine oil. This car is a nightmare
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