GTP supercharger pulley, 3.4" ???????

Hello everyone, I just got a bone stock '97 GTP and I was wondering if anyone can tell me what my first engine modification should be. How about a supercharger pulley? I have heard that with a stock motor with no other modifications the 3.5" pulley is the way to go. What else is needed for use of a 3.4" and smaller pulley? How much boost do these provide? What are some good free mods? Thanks for any help.

Free mods you can find at http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/free_mods/freemod_home.htm

Also why your there check out the tech info. Might want to consider signing up at www.clubgp.com as well.

i'd say a 3.4 inch pulley is good for starters... I believe it gives you about 25-30hp. I'd say you should get a tranny cooler though just to be safe.. i know http://www.grandprixstore.com has them pretty cheap... you'll definatly feel a difference.

As far as free mods go, I think a popular one is to remove your tb screen... but I don't think it works too well on the 97's, but you could give that a shot...

I would put a 180 degree thermostat in, and have the u-bend exhaust restriction right behind your cat removed before you go for the 3.4.

It does give your engine 25-30hp, but it puts more like 16hp to the wheels (sometimes a little more) because of the extra power required to turn the supercharger faster and a little power lost through the transmission.

The biggest increase with the 3.4 is the torque. The torque increase is huge :D

i'd say a 3.4 inch pulley is good for starters... I believe it gives you about 25-30hp. I'd say you should get a tranny cooler though just to be safe.. i know http://www.grandprixstore.com has them pretty cheap... you'll definatly feel a difference.

As far as free mods go, I think a popular one is to remove your tb screen... but I don't think it works too well on the 97's, but you could give that a shot...

I would not recommend a tranny cooler!
he lives in IOWA....Iowa summers can get hot but not that hot
Iowa winters on the other hand are damn COLD! at least the times I have been there!!!!

But seriously I dont think you need a tranny cooler unless you get hot summers and mild winters....

I would not recommend a tranny cooler!
he lives in IOWA....Iowa summers can get hot but not that hot
Iowa winters on the other hand are damn COLD! at least the times I have been there!!!!

But seriously I dont think you need a tranny cooler unless you get hot summers and mild winters....
Couldn't I just cover up the tranny cooler in the winter like people do with their radiators? The winters here in Iowa are very cold but the summers are also extremely hot, sometimes 100 f +.

if you read up on tranny coolers on zzperformance.com it says that it's a waste of time and money to get one.. it just adds weight and increases the chance of a fitting to leak..if it does that then you could loose your tranny all together. i dont think that hardly any of the people with the built ass gp's doing 11's even use one. they just use the factory one in the main radiator. the best way to keep your tranny cool is to make your engine run cooler by getting a 180 or 160 deg. thermostat.

Just an fyi....

A good alternative to a full blown transmission cooler is the 3800performance.com or intense-racing.com modified transmission pan. (I'm not sure which vendor sells it and I'm lazy right now). Anyway, it has "fins" welded into a stock type pan that let air passing under the car help to cool the tranny a little bit.

Well guys, reading all your input is about correct. But to tell you the truth I live in a constant summer(Caribbean)and without the tranny cooler my tranny would have been totaled by now.
I respect the ZZP folks but they should try to race or drive their cars on a humid and hot weather like the Caribbean to see how the car/tranny behaves. In my case without the tranny cooler the oil would heat up to 265+ degf. That is not good, if you read about tranny oil thermal break down temps above 235degf would cause std oil to break and loose the loobing capabilities.
About all the rest, 3.4" pulley is perfect. If you check the http://www.intense-racing.com under performance packages and check what they have for a level 1 mod kit it includes the following: CAI, 3.4" pulley, 180degf tstat, and Autolites 605(I would go to 104 directly to get even better KR from the smaller pulley) and they claim that this would add at least ~30 WHP to your car. Safe and easy to do. If you get this from them it would cost $362. Not a lot for 30whp. Go check it out

Well guys, reading all your input is about correct. But to tell you the truth I live in a constant summer(Caribbean)and without the tranny cooler my tranny would have been totaled by now.
I respect the ZZP folks but they should try to race or drive their cars on a humid and hot weather like the Caribbean to see how the car/tranny behaves. In my case without the tranny cooler the oil would heat up to 265+ degf. That is not good, if you read about tranny oil thermal break down temps above 235degf would cause std oil to break and loose the loobing capabilities.
About all the rest, 3.4" pulley is perfect. If you check the http://www.intense-racing.com under performance packages and check what they have for a level 1 mod kit it includes the following: CAI, 3.4" pulley, 180degf tstat, and Autolites 605(I would go to 104 directly to get even better KR from the smaller pulley) and they claim that this would add at least ~30 WHP to your car. Safe and easy to do. If you get this from them it would cost $362. Not a lot for 30whp. Go check it out

Thanks for everybodies input, I think I am going to get a tranny cooler after careful consideration. I have another question, does anybody know if there is a difference in size between a throttle body from a 97 GT and a 97 GTP ie: does one flow better? Are there any differences at all? Also what mods do I need to run a 3.25" pulley? Thanks for all the help.

3859C1, if you go to the http://www.intense-racing.com site and under performance packages you check level 2 or 3 and that will throw in a smaller pulley. If this pulley is not the 3.25 you can send them an email and they usually reply pretty quick about what you need to use it safely. If not you can ask Ripn12s

I just wanted to add a few things...

If you only have 91 octane gas available in your area and don't live up in a high elevation I suggest that you scan your car before you try a smaller pulley (even the 3.5). Some people have seen 4-5 degrees of KR even with u-bend removed, rockers, and colder plugs on the 3.4...unlucky ones have seen close to 10!!! The really unlucky ones have even seen KR with the stock pulley. Every motor is different, not saying you can't get 0 KR with a 3.4 and 91 octane, but unless you scan you'll never know. There's also the possibility of false knock. More than a few people are chasing knock problems, not knowing wether the knock was caused by the smaller pulley or is false. I know using race fuel will tell you if it's false or not, but if you had scanned prior to dropping pulley sizes you would know...if knock increased after the pulley install it's a good bet it's real...

Just my little piece of advice, Good Luck to you.

I just wanted to add a few things...

If you only have 91 octane gas available in your area and don't live up in a high elevation I suggest that you scan your car before you try a smaller pulley (even the 3.5). Some people have seen 4-5 degrees of KR even with u-bend removed, rockers, and colder plugs on the 3.4...unlucky ones have seen close to 10!!! The really unlucky ones have even seen KR with the stock pulley. Every motor is different, not saying you can't get 0 KR with a 3.4 and 91 octane, but unless you scan you'll never know. There's also the possibility of false knock. More than a few people are chasing knock problems, not knowing wether the knock was caused by the smaller pulley or is false. I know using race fuel will tell you if it's false or not, but if you had scanned prior to dropping pulley sizes you would know...if knock increased after the pulley install it's a good bet it's real...

Just my little piece of advice, Good Luck to you.

Sorry, what exactly is KR? I am new to GTP's......

Sorry, what exactly is KR? I am new to GTP's......

Here is a good read from ZZP on KR:

knock information (http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/info/knock_retard/kr_home.htm)

Like these guys suggested, scan the car. Better yet if you plan on going all out on the car then I suggest buying a scanner.

http://www.ls1m.com/

On the throttle body question. I dont think your going to want to throw a L36 TB on there. I would think that the MAF sensor might be different? Instead try and pick up a '99 GTP's throttle body.

Like these guys suggested, scan the car. Better yet if you plan on going all out on the car then I suggest buying a scanner.

http://www.ls1m.com/

On the throttle body question. I dont think your going to want to throw a L36 TB on there. I would think that the MAF sensor might be different? Instead try and pick up a '99 GTP's throttle body.

I would think the calibration would be different between my GTP's mass air and a GT's because of the injector flow ratings. Is the L36 the GT? I haven't really looked at my tb and maf sensor setup, are the tb and maf one piece or are they seperate? Why would I want a 99 GTP tb, isn't it the same as my 97 tb?

Like these guys suggested, scan the car. Better yet if you plan on going all out on the car then I suggest buying a scanner.

http://www.ls1m.com/

On the throttle body question. I dont think your going to want to throw a L36 TB on there. I would think that the MAF sensor might be different? Instead try and pick up a '99 GTP's throttle body.

Here is a link to the throttle body I was thinking about getting for my 1997 GTP. Can anyone tell me if this would be ok on my car or should I just not bother with it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33558&item=2468419241&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT

eBay item #2468419241

Why would I want a 99 GTP tb, isn't it the same as my 97 tb?

In 99 they made some changes.

http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/info/info_model_changes.htm

1999
-Fixed the headlight condensation problem
-Better air box (5hp) draws air from behind headlight and uses larger filter
-Moved coolant tank reservoir to side of strut tower
-Different Throttle body. Same electronics & mounting but the MAF sensor is setup different
-Torque star rims available that to date are the lightest offered on a GP
-Fixed the problem with the fuel pump resistor
-Fixed a problem with the wipers malfunctioning
-The light color went from green to red in 1999 on the digital climate control.
* Courtesy of Trend1
-Bose sound system was added in 1999 as an option for the first time.
* Courtesy of Trend1



L36 = GT/SE
L67 = GTP
L32 = '04 GTP