Low cost upgrades/modification??

If you have modified you silverado and paid less then $100 per upgrade POST IT. I have done several changes to mine that cost $50 or less but made the truck looks and performance act like I spent thousands. Let me know what ideas or changes you have made. Dave

I have seen several things on Ebay and other places for under $50. Like billet A/C knobs, pedals, shifter, grille, and lots of others. Can you post some of the mods you made so that we can also look into acquiring some of them.

2 of the major mods that were under $50. If you look in at your mass flow sensor, you will see a medal screen. CHevy places a restrictor plate in their trucks to regulate the amount of HP " I believe " The medal plate by the mass flow sensor is a restrictor plate. I removed it and noticed an instant difference on excelleration and gas milage. Cost of mod. $0.000 and I get on ave. 18 mpg in city and 22 on highway when it use to be 14/18. These are the type of mods I'm looking for...

Well they usually put a screen there to catch debris, so I don't know if that would be a good thing to keep out.

The other mod under 50 was replacing the torsion bar key with the same year F150 Key. the difference inangle on the key lifted the front end of my truck 3 inches. now instead of feeling like the front of my truck is going to submarine into the ground it sits level and looks great. Both the wheel wells are now at 40inches from ground to top of well. That only ran me $42.00 to purchase the F150 keys and install was simple.

If you have a decent air filter such as a K&N not much is going to get through just 100% air. I have had it out for over 2 years and no problems yet just not stopping at the gas pump as much, and with all the crap floating in the air here if it hasn't effected it yet I don;t think that it will

I found this on another website about removing the screen in the mass air flow sensor. Are you sure you want to leave that out?

"Don't remove the metal screen mesh that is used in the Mass Air meter. It does not yield any "extra" HP. This screen will prevent any large particles (that got passed the air filter somehow) from damaging the hot and cold wires on the electronic sensor unit. Some folks also say it "smoothes out" the air flow, like an airator on your sink faucet, either way, it's best to leave the screen in place."

So far, a K&N filter. I got it free, but I think they run around $45 to $50. I'm looking to add a K&N FIPK chrome unit this spring.

Isn't it kind of funny that the aftermarket MAF sensors don't have the screen. If you look at their ad it claims that their MAF flows 47% more air. Guess what...remove the screen and so will your stock sensor. I removed the screen in mine and instantly noticed a difference. The screen is mainly to keep the thermistors free from anything that might get past the filter.

Just like sonny said I also noticed an instant change. If you look at all the after market intakes they don't have the screen. The big thing if you do decided to take it out just be sure NOT TO HIT the cold and hot sensors. If you look at a K&N replacement filter all it is, is one big screen

I know I am going to sound like a loser, but is there instructions on how to remove the MAF screen properly, so as not to screw up the sensor?

http://www.sshotrods.com/performance/gmtruck/
This shows how to do it and it has some pretty good pictures to help you.

A little easier way to remove it with out having to separate the entire essembly is to just remove the air filter cover box. Once that is done just look i the tube and it is right there. Take a close look at it and you will see the hot and cold sensors they look like tiny wires going from left to right. Use a small flat head screwdriveron the edge and crimp it in just enough to get the face of the screwdriver behind the screen. then just slowly pry the screen off. Put the air filter cover back on, and repalce the stock filter with a K&N and let me know what you think. Dave

OK, you guys convinced me to remove the screen! We'll see if it really makes a difference!! :D I noticed that when I took the screen off the ports looked a little oxidized. Has anyone polished these and seen anymore difference? What would you use to polish that, or should you just "have it done"?

It really shouldn't make a difference with it being oxidized. If you want to clean it just be carefull what you use. YOu don't want any extra combustables to reach the plugs. I'm sure that somebody in this forum knows exactly what to use..

I think the low cost mods from my LT1 caprice would also work on trucks. (1) throttle body bypass for coolant. keeps the throttle body cooler. more throttle response (2) 160 thermostat(10 bux). keeps the whole motor cooler. heat stress is what causes water pumps to fail and all the various gaskets. running a little cooler makes the motor a bit more responsive. (3) MAF screens gotta go, as earlier noted. more throttle response. (4) vent the crankcase with a little K&N filter(10) bux). opens up the top end a bit. (5) get a K&N cone filter, rubber pipe couplers from home depot, and build a intake like on the corvette - short, right off the intake (50). cold air quick gives a big punch. probably worth 10 hp at least. Its 20 on a caprice, verified by dyno. (6) the throttle position sensor can often be fine tuned to give better throttle response. need a multimeter to get the voltage at idle then set it to spec by drilling out one screw hole of the sensor and rotate to get the precise voltage, then tighten the screw. (7) smaller crank pully, probably (100 bux, maybe less). this adds a lot to torque over the whole power band, way more than you would think for the 5-10 horsepower claimed.

after that, its real money. I'd consider 1.6 roller rockers. late 70's early 80's camaro headers fit a lot of vehicles including the caprice so will probably fit the truck too. afterburners are pretty good for less than 200 bux. An LT1 fan system would be a big plus as noted earlier by someone else and it would also enable a better short cold air intake right in front of the motor.

After that, I'd look at the brakes. I bet, like the caprice, they still have the same 95-5 balance between front and rear, even though its 4 wheel disk rather than rear drum. This calls for pulling the spring out of the front of the combi valve and replacing the front bolt with a shortened rear bolt. also, if you have ever had to stop quick, you may have noticed a delay when you hit the pedal like a madman and nothing happened for 2 seconds - thats a metering set up for making the rear drums start a nanosecond faster than the front disks. you pull the rear combi valve plug out and grind down the end of the plug past the threads so it won't cover half the front brake orifice and leave it open. This makes for quick brakes. a set of stainless steel wrapped brakelines is a must too as well as speedbleeders to help get the lines all re-bled and working right.

juma

Thank you juma for the selection on mods. Are there any other brave souls that have tried out things with their truck "with sucess"???

I've done the egr shave, the throttle body coolant bypass, the maf mod, and when I had the original airbox in the truck, I cut a hole in the bottom of the box and the plate and ran some tubing from the opening of the airdam to the intake box to get a ram air effect. I later removed this for an airaid intake kit. Now all I need for the ramair effect is just remove the passenger side headlight at the track.

How easy is it to remove the side panal of the intake box and does it makle that much of a difference?

This is basically the diagram I used.
Cut a 4" round hole in the bottom of the air box with a 4" hole saw, reinstall lower air box and mark the hole on the lower mounting plate. Use a jig or saber saw to cut a hole in the bottom mounting plate. Get some 4" flex duct (dryer hose will work) and run it up through the hole in the air box. Get a 5x10 rectangular A/C duct from Lowes or Home Depot and mount it in the hole next to the passenger side fog light. It'll have to be trimmed at about a 45* angle to line up with the lower gray valance under the bumper. Secure the scoop with some kind of strap or something and connect the 4" flex duct to it. I could tell it helped the stock airbox and k&n filter get some more air.

I didn't take any pictures of it back then, but I found this picture and its basically what it will look like in the airbox

http://images.cardomain.com/member_img_a/336000-336999/336232_21.jpg

Good deal did you notice much difference?

I had a very noticeable increase when I was on the gas. It definately helps to get some much needed air to the filter. It's a real good mod for the small cost. It also gives you a good feeling knowing it is a homemade job that produces results.

How do you get pics on the site? I would like to show my truck and see if people can guess what I did

If you have the pics on anothe page, just use the insert image button. It's right under the font list. Just hit the button and post the address of the picture.

What is a good exhaust system to go with?

surveyor thanks for the info and the link to sshotrods. very good info.

unless you really raise horsepower or just want to make noise, be best bang for the buck is a walker hemi-super turbo muff. they sound almost stock buy flow better than any other turbo, straight thru, or sound chamber muffler. otherwise the stock exhaust will do itfor you.

juma

ABout what price range do these run?

anybody have the voltair (sp?) cold air with the tube that runs down under the front air dam? is it worth it?

I have seen the volant systems at work. They are a very nice system, and will definately increase the airflow.

It snows plenty here and all they use on the road is salt. Is this system stainless steele?

Volant!!!! But how does it compare to the regular K&N?

What is a good chip for the silverado and what are the benefits pro's and Con's

The other mod under 50 was replacing the torsion bar key with the same year F150 Key. the difference inangle on the key lifted the front end of my truck 3 inches. now instead of feeling like the front of my truck is going to submarine into the ground it sits level and looks great. Both the wheel wells are now at 40inches from ground to top of well. That only ran me $42.00 to purchase the F150 keys and install was simple.

Can you help me understand what the "F150 Key" means? Did you purchase these at Ford or an aftermarket place?

My Silverado is the Z71 series 4x4.

Thanks,
Norm

(4) vent the crankcase with a little K&N filter(10) bux). opens up the top end a bit.


Where do you buy one of these??

Roli

If you look under the truck just behind the passanger and driver doors you will see 2 bars that go from the center towards the front tires. these are the torsion bars. Where the bars end at the center there is a medal piece with an adjustment screw on the end of it. That is the torsion bar key that can be changed out with the F150's

What year f150's keys will work?

What year is your truck?? If it is 1999 New Model through 2003 you can use the same year F150's. Not sure about the new body silverado

It Is A 1996

If you have modified you silverado and paid less then $100 per upgrade post it. I have done several changes to mine that cost $50 or less but made the truck looks and performance act like I spent thousands. Let me know what ideas or changes you have made. Dave
If you need anything for you car let me know.... my name is Ross Johnson Co. Owner of Groundspeed. i will hook you up on everything....just let me know all the info on your car and what you want or need....you can e-mail me at JOHNSONRP@2mardiv.usmc.mil or redcustom909@aol.com send it to both accounts or the JHNSONRP one because that is my work one I would most likely get it there but if you can send it to both of them….you can also see a pic of my car on this site http://photos.yahoo.com/ross82_oo

What kind of items do you carry and how does the price compare. thanks

Anything for trucks?

Has Anyone heard anything about a recall for the Driveshaft?

Has Anyone heard anything about a recall for the Driveshaft?
i have been looking for recalls lately but have found none other then the power steering and the airbags. i will keep an eye out though

Good deal if I get anything I will post it. Hey what is the easiest way to open the bottom of the air filter box I know some people used a hacksaw but I'm a little sceptical about taking it to the meat market.

open it? to get more air in? try a hole saw and have a perfectly round clean hole

Some one suggested cutting the sides of the bottom off. It might work but it is kind of expensive if you make an error

Good deal if I get anything I will post it. Hey what is the easiest way to open the bottom of the air filter box I know some people used a hacksaw but I'm a little sceptical about taking it to the meat market.

I would think a Dremel tool or something similar would work. You could take a hole saw drill and do large holes in all four corner areas. It's a trick we used a lot on motorcycles.

If you haven't already, you might want to consider removing the screen on your MAF. That'll do as much good, if not more, than just opening up the box. May also want to add a free flow filter, if you haven't alread.

Just some thoughts.
Norm

Thanks for the info. I allready removed the screen and did notice quite an increase in Gid E Up but you know that once you start messing with something, untill all ideas are exhausted, just have to keep messing with it

you can pick up a K&N for your truck for $38. i am ordereinf the FIPK (Fuel Injection Performance Kit) from K&N for $219.

When I removed the screen I also replaced the filter with the K&N. so i'm not sure what made the greatest increase but it was noticable not only in power but gas milage went up too. I though about getting a supercharger but gas prices are toooooo high here

When I removed the screen I also replaced the filter with the K&N. so i'm not sure what made the greatest increase but it was noticable not only in power but gas milage went up too. I though about getting a supercharger but gas prices are toooooo high here


Have you thought about going to the "superchip". Pick Ups Plus carries them here in Columbus. From what I understand, unlike other performance chips, this one actually enhances things across the full power range, not just the top end.

That would be a long range "investment" thing that would allow you to make peformance enhancements as you make additional modifications.

How much would a chip set me back? Does it just reprogram the truck comp and what can it change?

Call these guys. Ask for Kyle. If I remember right they are around $300+. My brochure is at work. But Kyle should be able to fill ya in. They are great folks.

614-529-1212

I just spoke with him and he's not sure if there is any detail info on the PUPS web site. That address is www.pickupsplus.com

Hope this helps.

Can you replace stock fog lights with aftermarket lights, and will it work the same

Can you replace stock fog lights with aftermarket lights, and will it work the same

As long as your using the systems wiring harness, there should be no difference in how they work. A bit curious though on why you'd want to replace the stock units. 55 watts is max for legal highway use.

The legallity of the lights are not really a consern, msot aftermarkets are usually within standards of all states. A lot of it is repalcement costs. I have seen AM lights fo 40 for the pair when a solo stock light runs around $50.

Looks like the question then becomes a matter of cost and quality. Hella and PIAA are the best on the market. Solid cases and the PIAAs come with in-line fuses. Not sure on the Hella. THe PIAAs would have models that should fit your stock mounting holes and wiring. The Hellas, mostly large round systems, may not be easy for AM fitment.

Myself, I'm looking at adding a set of amber lights to my grille guard. Leaving the stock lights as is.

The respective web sites should be able to tell you about matching your stock wiring harnesses.

I would love to get a stainless brushguard for my truck but the wife veto's it each time that I ask. Any Suggestions on how to surpass congrass. If I get it life would be sooo much easier i could just mount the lights on the guard itself

Well, can't speak for everyone, but those of us who ride motorcycles usually use the "saftey chrome" justification speech when it comes to purchasing new products. Should work okay with trucks too.

Then of course there is the buy it and apologize routine. Believing it's easier to do it and apologize then it is to ask permission!

Here in the midwest, deer provide a good excuse for up front "protection". Ya hit one of those babies at 65 mph without some up-front protection, you're looking at serious bucks when it comes to parts replacement.

If you're interested, I have a Westin full grille brush gaurd with trim strips. It's black powder coated. I'd prefer a different set up, but it came with the truck. If you're interested, I'd entertain an offer. :)