No brakes on wet road

When the brakes on my '98 Lumina get wet they become dangerously non-responsive. This has been true ever since I bought the car (almost new). Any suggestions on a fix? Thanks.

When this happens to me I try to ride the brakes lightly every so-often to keep them heated and dry. But then if they are hot and you splash through water they will cool fast and warp the rotors. Maybe getting your rotors turned with a special cross-cut grain put on them also.

Thanks, Handyguy, for the suggestion. I'll explore the option of the criss-cross grain.

My dad has a 99 monte carlo and his was recalled for a deflector that was installed on the strut brake assembly. The recall could cover your vehicle.

i have the same problem after it rainsor damp or when its wet idk why

Sounds like DJGraham has provided a key to the mystery. Although the recall he mentions (NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 01I014000) only applies to Monte Carlos (1995-99), it is plausible that the same design flaw is causing my problem (98 Lumina) and perhaps others. It has something to do with insufficient air getting to the front brakes to keep them working properly when wet. The fix is apparently minor modifications to the wheel wells. I haven't tried it yet, but I intend to explore it soon. Thanks to all who responded. You may be life savers-- literally.

When the brakes on my '98 Lumina get wet they become dangerously non-responsive. This has been true ever since I bought the car (almost new). Any suggestions on a fix? Thanks.
Hey Hoosier49 , this is Hoosier1 ,
I know of no fix for wet brakes. A deflector would help- then you would get overheated brakes in dry conditions ?
I have a 99 LTZ with 4 wheel disc brakes and they are terrible in wet conditions. Have you replaced the pads? If so, did you use aftermarket or OE pads? - It makes a difference.
I have just learned to live with it and sometimes must dynamite the brakes just to get whoa-ed up and the ABS chatters a bit.

I 1st noticed the same problem a year ago. I thought there was also a little too much pedal travel so I checked everything out and went ahead and put new pads on front. I thought the pedal was still a little spongy so I bled brakes and found air in system at the abs bleeders (next to master cyl) I thought it must be bad master cyl so I replaced it and still got some tiny air bubbles when bleeding the 2 bleeder valves on abs. The brakes are good for awhile after bleeding, but eventually get enough air in them to effect braking. I'm convinced I need to replace the ABS motor/pump assy to cure. $300+ part at dealer. Anyone found this?

I asked a brake expert at Bendix about the wet brakes, he told me that some brake pads (not Bendix) absorb water and have to be dried out by dragging the brakes. I had Autozone's Carbon Metallic pads on the car for a couple of years and seemed to get progressively worse in the rain. I switched to Bendix Original Equipment Pads 6 months ago and the problem has not returned.

I 1st noticed the same problem a year ago. I thought there was also a little too much pedal travel so I checked everything out and went ahead and put new pads on front. I thought the pedal was still a little spongy so I bled brakes and found air in system at the abs bleeders (next to master cyl) I thought it must be bad master cyl so I replaced it and still got some tiny air bubbles when bleeding the 2 bleeder valves on abs. The brakes are good for awhile after bleeding, but eventually get enough air in them to effect braking. I'm convinced I need to replace the ABS motor/pump assy to cure. $300+ part at dealer. Anyone found this?

My 1999 LTZ is gone now. I sold it with 108,000 miles on it. I had no mechanical problems with it in 6 years. The brakes NEVER worked good, even in dry conditions. IMO, they were poorly engineered-probably to save money. When wet and rainy- they were almost unsafe. The dealer could find nothing wrong with them when new. I replaced the pads once at 65,000 miles and flushed the old brake fluid out of the system. Very Important to do this.
Your excessive pedal travel is caused by not regularly adjusting the rear brakes. If you do not "regularly" use the Parking brake - the rear brakes will quickly wear out of adjustment and the brake piston will travel farther to squeeze properly causing the transfer of braking to the front brakes. The best method of adjustment is to start engine, engage Parking brake and apply the foot brake several times at the same time. You will notice a shorter brake pedal travel immediately providing the adjusting mechanism is free to operate.
Do not use ANY aftermarket brake pads- only use OE Delco pads and you will enjoy the best brakes possible with the Lumina. They will run about 100.00 dollars without discount.
I bought a Ford Crown Victoria and it will stop on a dime- light years ahead of the Lumina in braking.

I've found that if the rears have degraded out of adjustment or worn, and the front is doing all the stopping, you will REALLY notice it when the front are wet and their capability is slightly compromised by the conditions. It will manifest as a feeling of solid pedal with little braking action. This was especially true of the 4 whl disc optioned models, where often the rears had become completely inoperative.