Resolving Corsica/Beretta interior water leaks
automan9482
03-15-2013, 11:38 PM
If you're fed up with wet feet when driving your L-body, give this a shot.
I researched the problem online and came up with this very useful link courtesy of beretta.net, discussing the common leak areas and how to repair. Depending on what's leaking, it may not be as intimidating as it seems.
The link is: http://www.beretta.net/how_to/waterleak.htm
As for my Corsica, the gaskets around the ECM plug and hood release cable were toast, and the bolt holding down the ECM plug was loose, resulting in a 1/4" gap where water flowed right inside.
Once I removed the door jamb trim, lower dash valence, kick panel, pulled back the carpet and craned my neck under the dash with a good flashlight, I could trace the leak.
Under the hood, I doused the whole area around the cable and plug with brake cleaner, allowed to dry, greased the electrical connectors, tightened the hold down bolt, and gooped the hell out of the area around where the components go through the body with a caulk gun and exterior window and door silicone, smoothing out the bead with a finger and allowing it to fully cure.
Also cleaned and siliconed the weld seam from the top of the strut tower to where it terminates behind the steering rack.
As an extra measure, I fashioned a shield from a small plastic flower container that comes with a flat of flowers by cutting out the bottom, cutting 2 opposite inside corners to make 2 pieces & trimming 1 piece to size. Cut back the hood weatherstripping @ 1-1/2", insert the "sheild" just under the windshield valence, and cut a small notch in the middle of the overlapping weatherstripping to secure it in place. Instead of the water coming off the weatherstripping and going right into the connector area, it flows over and away from it.
Also don't forget to thoroughly dry out your floors after taking back the carpeting and disposing of the saturated padding underneath. Soak up as much as possible with towels, then make use of a ShopVac on reverse to blow dry the rest.
Wire brush, degrease, and hit corroded spots with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and allow to dry. The paint smell can be easily aired out, whole repair can be done in an afternoon typically, and your floors and feet will thank you.
I researched the problem online and came up with this very useful link courtesy of beretta.net, discussing the common leak areas and how to repair. Depending on what's leaking, it may not be as intimidating as it seems.
The link is: http://www.beretta.net/how_to/waterleak.htm
As for my Corsica, the gaskets around the ECM plug and hood release cable were toast, and the bolt holding down the ECM plug was loose, resulting in a 1/4" gap where water flowed right inside.
Once I removed the door jamb trim, lower dash valence, kick panel, pulled back the carpet and craned my neck under the dash with a good flashlight, I could trace the leak.
Under the hood, I doused the whole area around the cable and plug with brake cleaner, allowed to dry, greased the electrical connectors, tightened the hold down bolt, and gooped the hell out of the area around where the components go through the body with a caulk gun and exterior window and door silicone, smoothing out the bead with a finger and allowing it to fully cure.
Also cleaned and siliconed the weld seam from the top of the strut tower to where it terminates behind the steering rack.
As an extra measure, I fashioned a shield from a small plastic flower container that comes with a flat of flowers by cutting out the bottom, cutting 2 opposite inside corners to make 2 pieces & trimming 1 piece to size. Cut back the hood weatherstripping @ 1-1/2", insert the "sheild" just under the windshield valence, and cut a small notch in the middle of the overlapping weatherstripping to secure it in place. Instead of the water coming off the weatherstripping and going right into the connector area, it flows over and away from it.
Also don't forget to thoroughly dry out your floors after taking back the carpeting and disposing of the saturated padding underneath. Soak up as much as possible with towels, then make use of a ShopVac on reverse to blow dry the rest.
Wire brush, degrease, and hit corroded spots with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and allow to dry. The paint smell can be easily aired out, whole repair can be done in an afternoon typically, and your floors and feet will thank you.
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