Grease fittings on the Buick

Neglected joints

The Riv was in for a grease job last week after I discovered there were SIX fittings in total, and many of them had been neglected due to travel and DIY oil changes. A quick look at the joints yesterday revealed (typical of a "retail" garage) NOT the best job. I need some advice before taking the vehicle back in.


LR fitting

This is what I believe it should look like.. grease cup inflated with a dab of lube on top.

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/LR_from-behind.jpg



RR fitting

On the other side (right rear) the control arm joint didn't look like it took grease. Instead the lube mushed out in gobs at the top. This is the joint I wiped-off with a rag before making the appointment and remember the condition of it well.

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/RR_from-behind.jpg



RF fitting

The right front fitting is on the tie-rod end IIRC. I cannot tell what is going on here until the wheels are taken off tomorrow for balancing and rotation, and the joints are degreased.

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/RF_from-behind.jpg



Questions

It looks like we'll have more rework, this time for a grease job. Please help with the following:* Are the grease cups supposed to inflate like a doughnut?

* Is it ok to degrease a joint and fitting.. or will it be damaged? what chemical? or rag only?

* Isn't it necessary to replace a nipple if the joint isn't taking grease?

* Does one have to buy a grease gun and do it themself to get the job done right?

This is basic stuff, but sometimes you need straight answers. Seem to recall my daddy having to replace nipples because the joint wouldn't take grease, and also remember a clear plastic box he had with replacement fittings in it.


Maybe the subject should be: Care and Feeding of your Buick Grease Joints :naughty:


Thanks,

-Ed

* Are the grease cups supposed to inflate like a donut?In pic #1, the joint was over greased. This is the typical result of an untrained, or don't give a damm lube jockey. Once properly lubricated, three pumps of a manual grease gun should be all you need when greased every other oil change. Over inflation of the rubber cups, will eventually cause the cup to split and leak the grease out, while letting outside contaminates in, causing premature part failure.
* Is it ok to degrease a joint and fitting.. or will it be damaged? what liquid? or rag only? I use paper towels on the joint/fitting before & after using the grease gun. Sometimes, I pour some mineral spirits on the towel for final cleaning. See pic below of tie-rod end from my '96 PA. IIRC, the car was 12-yrs old when this was taken. It looks the same today!* Isn't it necessary to replace a nipple if the joint isn't taking grease?In pic #2, it looks like the lube jockey did not have the grease adapter fully snapped onto the zerk/grease fitting. I would try to lube again using a manual pump grease gun.* Does one have to buy a grease gun and do it themself to get the job done right?Absolutely, the only way you will ever know it was done right. BTW, did you check the rear ball joints?

No excuse, fittings are easily accessible.....

Anyone with a Blazer? Can guarantee those will be ignored, because it takes effort to get to them....

Over inflation of the rubber cups, will eventually cause the cup to split and leak the grease out, while letting outside contaminates in, causing premature part failure.

I would try to lube again using a manual pump grease gun.Absolutely, the only way you will ever know it was done right. BTW, did you check the rear ball joints?


Do you think the grease cups are in danger of failing?

I've called the Service Adviser, and have to go back and pick up some clips that were ordered anyway. Will post more on the grease joints. Have the front two joints all degreased and inspected. Must tend to the tires/wheels today.


-Ed

Getting the joints cleaned up to have a better look.


Rear control arms

Looking better? The LEFT boot seems overfilled, stressed and cracked. The RIGHT boot appears normal.

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/LR_joint.jpg - http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/RR_joint.jpg



Front tie-rod ends

The tie rod joints got some grease (red dab on top) and look ok. Here are views before degrease..

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/LF_after_grease.jpg - http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/RF_after_grease.jpg


Joints degreased

And some "after" pics. The LEFT boot seems overfilled, stressed and cracked. The RIGHT boot appears normal.

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/TRE_left_2.jpg - http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/TRE_right_2.jpg



Ball Joints

Yikes.. these are obscured with grease and dirt!! You can't see jack sh@t. Lol

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/LF_ball-joint.jpg - http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/RF_ball-joint.jpg


Is it ok to spray them with engine Gunk? What a friggin' mess!! :cya:


-Ed

This happens from " over greasing them" the grease is forced out of the seals ( wrong) and road debris sticks to the greasy areas, all unecessary!

In pic #1, the joint was over greased. This is the typical result of an untrained, or don't give a damn lube jockey. Once properly lubricated, three pumps of a manual grease gun should be all you need when greased every other oil change. Over inflation of the rubber cups, will eventually cause the cup to split and leak the grease out, while letting outside contaminates in, causing premature part failure.

I use paper towels on the joint/fitting before & after using the grease gun. Sometimes, I pour some mineral spirits on the towel for final cleaning. See pic below of tie-rod end from my '96 PA. IIRC, the car was 12-yrs old when this was taken. It looks the same today!

try to lube again using a manual pump grease gun.Absolutely, the only way you will ever know it was done right. BTW, did you check the rear ball joints?

You are making perfect sense. Stress cracking of the boots can be seen in the NEW photos from today. See side-by-side tie rod end and rear control arm joints where LEFT boots are overfilled, and both have lots of tiny cracks.


-Ed

Nice looking job so far ED. I would clean the lower ball joints the same way you cleaned the tie-rod ends, which look very good. Also, in the pic I posted, those were new Raybestos ATD rotors/ceramic pads, which came with a powder coating on the hub mounting surface & cooling fins. I am currently using Power Stop Silver Zinc Plated Cross-Drilled And Slotted Rotors w/Z16 Ceramic Scorched Brake Pads. Click Here (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3796602) BTW, I did use POR-15 on the calipers & brackets several years ago.

Nice looking job so far ED. I would clean the lower ball joints the same way you cleaned the tie-rod ends, which look very good. Also, in the pic I posted, those were new Raybestos ATD rotors/ceramic pads, which came with a powder coating on the hub mounting surface & cooling fins. I am currently using Power Stop Silver Zinc Plated Cross-Drilled And Slotted Rotors w/Z16 Ceramic Scorched Brake Pads. Click Here (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3796602) BTW, I did use POR-15 on the calipers & brackets several years ago.

Thanks man!!

Estimated to take two days, the wheel rotation and balancing ended up taking 3-1/2 days with all the futzing, and the replacement washer tank had to be installed. That.. and messin' with grease fittings.


Ball joints

I hit the ball joints with paper towel only and they're in a LOT better shape now. Didn't have time to detail these and wanted to get the wheels back on and go for a test drive. Below are the ball joints after being `wiped.´ The rotors are very close-by so care must be taken. Will get to these in the driveway with some kind of degrease chemical and then hose them down!

Fittings are on the FRONT of the left joint, and the BACK of the right joint.

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/LF_ball_joint.jpg - http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/RF_ball_joint.jpg
Driver side (from in front of LF wheel) and passenger side (from behind RF wheel.)


Wheel sensor clips

A fix to another pesky problem. The wheel sensors (anti-lock) have chattered for years, and one shop said they had secured them. Compare to pics above in the discussion thread where they're loose and crooked. Have disconnected the sensors, sprayed inside the connectors with DeoxIT D5 and blown them out with a compressed air can.

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/wheel_sensor_0.jpg



The connectors and clips are now secured with 7" x 3/16" T&B Tie Wraps and are noise free!! Brand is "T&B Multi-purpose Cable Tie."

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/wheel_sensor_1.jpg



So it's off to the body shop next week.. and I'll be posting less for a while. :thumbsup:


-Ed

Ed, were you the guy that got me in trouble during an oil change?:grinno:

He said there was no grease on the fittings so that I did not grease his car, during the oil change.....MY SM reamed me.....

I got the guy's keys.....put the car on the lift.....and pointed out that all the boots were extremely expanded, and if I gave just one pump, the boot might pop.....customer complained that I did not wipe off the crud on his fittings......I said I usually do, when I remove my grease gun, but since I didn't add grease, he should bring it back to the last garage(saw the previous sticker) that did his last oil change.....

I once had a guy ask me if I checked his tire pressures? I said yes......he said, did you check the spare too? I said no, that's not part of a normal oil change....my SM told me to check it......went out to the car, opened the trunk.....closed it......

Drove it in the garage, and stopped in front of the SM's counter........proceeded to empty, a fully loaded trunk, then had to remove jack and spare(valve was on underside of tire).....pressure was 58psi....added 2 pounds.......reattach spare/jack/cover...install all the crap in the trunk....park it outside....write up my RO.....hit the clock and got paid for it......my SM and I were not on the best of terms.....

Another grease fitting update

Was able to get under the vehicle today. The rear control arm joints looked different in comparison to three weeks ago.


LEFT REAR

The left rear joint is still plump with some grease oozing out from the top of the rubber boot.

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/LR_control-arm_joint.jpg


RIGHT REAR

The right rear boot had no grease oozing from the upper edge, but had grease escaping from the fitting on top. Not an expert, but the RIGHT joint appears to have a failed nipple, and that would explain why so much RED LUBE mushed out after the lube job. See 2nd photo from top in OP (original post.)

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/RR_control-arm_joint.jpg
Photo of the RR control arm joint with grease oozing from fitting.


I'd say the RIGHT joint isn't holding grease and needs more attention.


-Ed

The weather broke last weekend in Virginia, with temperatures pushing 70°F. Soo.. doing the "garage guy" thing Saturday afternoon, which I enjoy a lot!


Front joints

An update on the grease fittings.. was able to get under the front end in the driveway by turning the wheels near-full RIGHT, then LEFT.. and "Gunked" the ball joints with (old formula) Gunk Engine Degrease spray can. It wasn't easy and I was worried about over-doing it. Not sure how things came out since is was very wet under there.


Rear joints

In contact with the SA (service adviser) at the local dealer, it's pretty clear the fitting needs replacement. Yeah yeah BFD, but this is what happens playing catch-up with vehicle maintenance.

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/RR_joint_close-up_3-13.jpg
RR fitting is not holding grease.. it's still oozing out the nipple.


http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/LR_joint_3-13.jpg
LR joint looks ok. Must keep an eye on these more.


Suppose I could easily replace the TWO rear grease fittings.. but maybe will have a mechanic do it.
Not sure what size nipples to buy and don't feel like buying a grease gun at this time.


-Ed

New grease fittings

The weather turned warm yesterday in Virginia and I decided to hit the garage and replace the two REAR grease fittings. First went to NAPA and all they had was an assortment pack. Then to CarQuest where they had the exact fitting. However the NEW ones wouldn't thread in more than one turn. Should I just go ahead and crank them into the joints with a wrench?

http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/new_rear_fittings.jpg
These nipples look slightly dissimilar... like so many auto parts today!!


Update: found out the nipples have a pipe thread so yes.. I cracked them down with a 5/16" socket and all looks fine. :)


http://home.comcast.net/~edwinn/new_fitting_right.jpg


Easy enough... just had to make sure it wouldn't get buggered.


-Ed