Need help with 305

I recently acquired a 1985 transam in fairly decent shape. Very minimal rust, body work required,etc. I received such a good deal on the car that the seller really doesnt have the time to assist me with any questions. This is my first restoration and Im a little confused how to proceed.

I need to know the engine and transmission and wanted to refrain from pulling the engine to determine the type.
Seller said its a GEN 3 305, but said to refer to a 1992 camaro engine and transmission when getting parts. I attempted to deduce by identifying what it has in it but cant.

I have the 305 installed with dynomax headers, edelbrock 4 bbl 6?? carb, Edlelbrock Performer intake, 5 speed racing clutch (which i guess needs a slave cylinder?) 140 mph speedo, ws6 package, 3.23 gearing. This is really all I know

Is there any way of determining the details of this engine without pulling it? I can see any codes on sides or bottom, all I know is that its a chevy 305 from a camaro and its 3rd gen.

Can anyone help?

The engine block numbers are stamped in a few locations: near the water pump on the front (easiest), on the back side (obviously of no use here), and on the sides visable from underneath.

My engine is stamped:

INSIDE TOP(DRIVER SIDE) OF ENGINE NEAR FIREWALL
GM 5.0LG
SGI

next to the date stamp is L048

IN BACK OF WATER PUMP ON BLOCK IS 088 & 878

088 is stamped on passenger side of block as well

I cant find any other stamps

It came from a 92 Camaro, but these stamps dont appear to tell me anything.

im rebuilding a 305 engine and it wont turn freely by turning the crankshaft but will truen freely if i dont torque the rod bolts down please help

Are we talking connecting rod bolts? Did you plastigauge the connecting rod bearings? Use engine prelube?

Are we certain the rods are oriented correctly? There is a difference in the rod faces - One side is chamfered to clear the radius on the crank throws and the opposite side is essentially flat to pair against the corresponding rod on the throw. Install one backward and exactly what you experienced will occur.

When you look at the rod orientation, as Blue Bowtie states above, you will note that the beams on the rods are not perfectly centered over the bearing races, but are offset slightly to one side. The narrow portion of the offset of rod "a" will butt against the narrow portion of rod "b" on a crank throw, they 'meet in the middle'. The wide portion is positioned toward each respective main bearing journal. It is important to remember this relationship, along with the notch in the pistons facing forward to the front of the block.

This is why it's important to mark each rod & cap with its cylinder number before the engine is disassembled. In many cases, the rods are stamped with their location at the factory, but this is not always the case. Make sure your main caps are properly assembled back into the proper place, with the arrows facing forward.

If you mixed the caps and rods, take it all back apart, remove the rods (and pistons) and have the big ends resized. Make sure you mark them before they're resized!