2000 IG ignition fuse blowing...Please help!!!

I have a 2000 Metro/Swift G13 5 speed. I was driving to work one day and it just died all of a sudden. I found the 15 amp ignition fuse in the passenger box was blown, Replaced it and all was good for about a week then it did it again only this time everytime I replaced the fuse and turned the key to the on position the fuse would blow again. I have searched the net for many hours and have found a bunch of people with the same problem but no real answers to what it could be. I know that the IG fuse feeds the charging,cooling,drl,warning lamps,AC and ignition systems. I have removed the fuse block to inspect for damage and all looks good, I have removed all grounds an cleaned and replaced them. also checked for broken/burnt wires. checked the engine comp fuse box and relays. Still I have not found the problem. I am at the end of my rope. I really love the car but I just dont know what else to do. At the moment I am spending about $100 a week in gas driving my SUV compared to $30 or less in my little clown car as my friends call it. PLEASE HELP.......Many thanks for your time.

Do you have anyhting extra wired to the ignition such as a sound system or the fan? Check to see if a past mechanic has straight wired anything to the ignition also (IE-Fuel pump etc). The problem could also be in the ignition switch itself. Remove the covers from the steering column to inspect. Does the fuse pop when you turn the ignition on or when you turn it all the way to start? Good luck...

I have an aftermarket cd player installed on the original radio circuit and an amplifier wired directly to the battery. As far as past mechanics I have done all of the repairs and maintenance myself since the factory warranty ran out in 2004. Nothing has been straight wired. I checked out the ignition switch and wiring, It all looks good. No burnt or bare wires. The fuse blows in the on position not the starting. I tried unplugging everything that my factory wiring manual shows is fed from that circuit. and with every thing unplugged it still blows as soon as I turn the key. I am probably gonna start pulling and unwrapping the entire harness to check for shorts. Thanks very much for your help..

Don't know if you've seen this post http://geometroforum.com/topic/3175242/1/#new scroll down to mwebb's description of searching for a short. Good Luck!

Inspecting wire insulation is time consuming, but effective, especially around friction/attachment points.

I had a similar condition with the FI circuit on my '96. My mechanic found a wire in the FI circuit that had been relocated to a mounting bracket on the engine (vibrates quite a bit) - the vibration wore through the insulation and it shorted to ground.

Well, I finaly found the problem. I started unwrapping the harness, and when I got to the O2 sensor I found that two of the crimp on splicers for the universal type sensor that I installed a couple of years ago must not have been crimped good enough because the wires had pulled out just a bit and were shorting out. I spliced them back together (better this time) and shrink tubed each of the four wires, plugged the harness back in and she fired right up. Thanks very much for everyones input.