New APVer in it for the long haul...

I'm not as young as I use to be when I wrenched on all my muscle cars back in the day, and I have to admit I don't enjoy getting my arms stained black up to the elbows as much as I did back then, but I'm still pretty much a do-it-yourself-er, so I am really hoping to contribute as much as I am able to get from y'all here.

Due to an uninsured 15 year old kid that snuck his parents Caravan out and lost control of it, smashing it into me while I was parked on the street waiting to take my daughter to work, (no one was hurt thank GOD) I had to scrape together my finances and get whatever I could afford. Fortunately I happen to find what I think is a diamond in the rough. (so far) I got a 1992 Lumina APV that just needs a bunch of TLC.

I've seen what another 'New APV Owner' posted here on the site and just want to assure you I wont be a turncoat the first time this thing gives me some trouble. I'm a little sorry to say I will be using this as my everyday driver as well as my work vehicle until I can afford to get a smaller, more economical put-around to do most of my short jaunts. Then this will become my tool hauling work van only. The past two work vehicles I had, shared about 300,000 miles almost equally and as long as this one is as loyal to me, I will be the same to her.

The reason I'm posting now is not just to ramble on forever but I think I might have figured out what might be a common problem with these particular vehicles, and that's how the drivers and front passenger's door wont open from the outside handle. (I noticed others had this problem)

Of course it is a no-brainer to say it is the single piece of linkage that goes to the outer handle but I also found that if you extend that piece of linkage about 1/4 inch with some strong stiff tape, it will stay put even when you jerk on the inside handle. I figured this out when I fixed it once only for it to come loose again the next day.

When GM designed the mechanism it worked fine for the first decade or so but after time the guide that piece of linkage fits through gets bent down just a bit, allowing it to slip out of place when you yank on the inside handle. You can see what I'm talking about if you ever watch the outer handle linkage while puling on the inner handle. Rather than trying to bend that guide back up (only for it to get bent back down over time) I just lengthened the rod/linkage by rolling only a couple inches of tape on the end of it. This way when you yank on the inside handle it can't slip out. Ya just gotta be careful not to use too much tape because if the rod is too thick it wont slide through the guide like it is suppose to. It only needs to be extended about a 1/4 inch to last the next decade or so.

Ok, that was the give, now for the take... I have the optional load leveling air struts on the back and I noticed the little compressor come on to raise the back end every time I sat on the back bumper (I weigh 200+ Lbs.) but it doesn't seem to be keeping air. The suspension doesn't raise and the compressor doesn't shut off. So, other than the fact that I'm over-weight, does any one know which is most likely the culprit here? The little air compressor, the electric valving, the neoprene air lines, or the air struts themselves? (I'm guessing the air lines)

Also I have the lines on the back windshield making me think it should have the rear defroster/defogger but I don't see how to turn it on. I noticed on a YouTube video that there was a button above the climate control buttons, but my APV doesn't have that. I also noticed a little bit of broken glass when I first cleaned the van, so I am wondering if maybe the back windshield was replaced. I was just wondering if there was a button I missed or something. I know I'm getting old but I'm not blind yet. I ordered an owners manual but it hasn't arrived yet.

I know there's more but I think I made this long enough to make most anyone wish they didn't click on my post. LOL

Thanks, Scott

Quick update... The rear windshield was replaced because I took the inside panel off and seen where the rear defroster should have the wires plugged in to it, but no wires there.

I unplugged the harness to the compressor for the air shocks so it wont kill my battery but I'm still wondering if it might just be the airlines that developed a leak. It still rides like a dream but I'm a little worried when I have a heavier load in the back.

I guess you have the 3800 as the load leveller is rare with the 3.1
THe fact the compressor starts when you sit on the back means the electronic sensor still works....which is a feat....
Can you verify the rubber boots at the rear shocks to see if they inflate at all? If it looses air, may be it just centers the sensor on the springs alone keeping the compressor at rest, except when you depress the back; if the rubber boots are deflated and stay deflated, they would be shot probably because of the stress on boot rubbing on itself. At that age, if they are originals, they are most probably shot anyway. Monroe replacements are OK.

Thanks for the reply. I crawled underneath once to take a look at the air lines but since they where all covered with wire loom making them hard to inspect, I admit I didn't check them out as thoroughly as I should've.

I wanted to wait until I got the service manual I ordered online to better walk me through the different components, so all I did at that time was disconnect the harness so the compressor wouldn't kill my battery. It didn't continuously try to pump up the shock unless I had something heavy in the rear of the van, but since I leave some materials for work in there it was enough to kick it on and off once in a while.

My thinking at the time was that since it was kicking off after a while it was either pumping up the shocks only for the air to slowly leak out, or it had some kind of safety timer so the compressor wouldn't constantly run. I couldn't see the back end raise any.

As for the boots on the shocks themselves, I didn't see any. I know what you mean because I've had air shocks before and it was a common easy way to jack up the back end without a rear end lift kit. But those always had a tee in the line so one line could split into 2 and pump up both sides. This system doesn't. The line goes to the left shock first (see pic here) (http://www.evernote.com/shard/s23/res/19665532-bd55-45a2-aaf1-b683e4edc256/snapshot-1272115395.316448.jpg?width=480&height=640) and then has a second line cross the axle to the other shock. That's just a little different than what I was use to seeing and is making me think it might still be the original factory shocks.

Now that I have the service manual I will need to make the time to put it up on jack-stands and check out the the junctions better. I'll also check for the air boots better and see if they're even trying to fill up with air or not, as well as what kind of shape they're in.

Lastly I'll have to check out the compressor Assembly with the air dryer and exhaust solenoid to see if it is creating a seal and any real pressure or just making a lot of noise.

Thanks a lot for your reply though. I was just wondering if there were any common suspects to check out first. Oh and by the way, I guess I unfortunately have one of the rare breeds with a 3.1 V6, 3 speed auto and a bunch of options added instead of the 3.8 V6 with the overdrive which usually accompanies these options. (sure wish I had that overdrive though, the gas economy isn't anything to brag about!)

I know I'm making this another marathon post but this reminds me I do have another question. When I'm on the highway at cruising speed, I notice that every time I give it a little gas there is a small but noticeable jerk in the drive train almost like there is torque-converter lock disengaging, but with no overdrive I didn't think it would do that. Does that seem right or common to you, or is one of my CV joints starting to go bad? There's no clicking when I take sharp corners and all 4 boots look good to me.

Again thanks, Scott

P.S. Here is a recent YouTube video of my van here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muanDWdyuyc).

As soon you depress the trottle a little quickly, the TCC will opt out...and will come back with a new steady condition or minimal acceleration .
Which service manual did you buy ? (GM original, Haynes, other...)
Saw your video: I think you do have the original real glass headlights of '92 rather than the milky white plastic crap used in 93...then they returned to glass in 94, and went again to plastic the years after I think.
I had been able to replace my 93 plastics with glass from a 92 early in 94, but since then I had one damaged and the plastic replacement is already shot milky way compared to the remaining glass type.

I have the Haynes Manual and I'm pretty sure the headlights on my APV are plastic but I was really surprised when I seen how clear they were myself. My mom's ford has plastic headlights and they're so frosted she can't stand them. I'll probably replace them with some aftermarkets from Certifit.com. They're almost as cheap as replacements from the junkyard and I'm lucky enough to have one of their warehouses about 10 minutes away from me.

The Haynes manual sometimes uses generic diagrams and methods. Whenever you need or like , verify my info bank at www.avigex.ca/xport, mostly based on the authentic '93 GM manual.

Thanks a million. I really appreciate it.

That APV is in really good shape.... I have seen the 3.1's with as much as 320,000-330,000 by the time they hit the junk yard... Most do hit 300k.. Good find

Thanks, I am really getting attached to this old girl. After all the stuff I have fixed on it so far the only things I have left is the air shocks, the liftgate supports, the inside handle on the rear sliding door, and the cluster switch so I can try the cruise control.

Now that I cleaned it up real good it looks great for it's age and seems to run as good as it looks.

.....so I can try the cruise control..
..If it happens not to work , take notice I had to do a cleanup job of the internals of the cruise control actuator last summer...just a little patience needed to return it to full operation. Ask if needed.

Thanks, I am really getting attached to this old girl. After all the stuff I have fixed on it so far the only things I have left is the air shocks, the liftgate supports, the inside handle on the rear sliding door, and the cluster switch so I can try the cruise control.

Now that I cleaned it up real good it looks great for it's age and seems to run as good as it looks.

I have become very attached to mine as well... I have a 95 Transport... I have done everything short of stamping out a new one.. I was shocked to find all of the options on it still worked even after 170,000 miles of abuse... Keyless still worked, all the buttons and switches still worked right down to the steering wheel controls... Then I found out it had the power sliding door option... That worked too.. The load level system on mine did not work tho and that was failure of the pump... I replaced the pump and the Load level system works.. Sit on the back end and it comes back up to level.. I started hauling engines, transmissions, concrete, tools... Just what ever I had in mind for it and it did them with ease... So I could not let it go and got attached...:smile:

Heck this thing has sat around the fire so we could have tunes... Its been on the beach so we could have a place to sit( again with tunes )...LOL... Just too versatile

Thanks again LMP, I keep ya in mind.

And Jrs3800, They sure gave this vehicle the right name. Lumina APV (or All Purpose Vehicle) might not roll off the tongue like the names of some other cars but it's very fitting! :wink:

Very much so the right name...

The funny part is GM actually considers these a Medium Truck Platform... They are very rigid and have really good strength... Jack up the front of the van and you will see no deflection of the door jams, they stay the same... I have issues with mine still but have been very impressed with it and what it can do... I will be getting a Class 2 hitch in the future for mine... I need to be able to pull stuff and tow from time to time... Its amazing to me what a 3800 V6 can move and how well it can move the heavy van around... Mine was the last year any U body was produced with a 3800

Actually I am kinda amazed to find out my APV weighs over 2.5 tons with how easily this little 3.1 V6 pushes it around. Granted it's only a 3 speed and not the best on gas but I've known smaller mini-vans do much worse.

It also doesn't drive like a van. It's much more agile than than I expected. It doesn't feel top heavy like a sharp turn might flip it over real easily.

I'm just surprised I never gave these things much notice before I owned one other than how they look like a shuttle craft off Star Trek, which is kinda funny. I didn't even know their bodies were plastic and fiberglass and not sheet-metal like nearly everything else. (except Saturns)

BTW LMP, I had it up on jack-stands to check the back brakes and the air-shocks, and the boots are definitely bad. I just need to scrape together more funds before I can replace them. Thanks for the advice though.

Actually I am kinda amazed to find out my APV weighs over 2.5 tons with how easily this little 3.1 V6 pushes it around. Granted it's only a 3 speed and not the best on gas but I've known smaller mini-vans do much worse.

It also doesn't drive like a van. It's much more agile than than I expected. It doesn't feel top heavy like a sharp turn might flip it over real easily.

I'm just surprised I never gave these things much notice before I owned one other than how they look like a shuttle craft off Star Trek, which is kinda funny. I didn't even know their bodies were plastic and fiberglass and not sheet-metal like nearly everything else. (except Saturns)

The weight is more like 3700 Lbs dry... Fill it to the gills with fuel you are getting near 4000, add a couple of passengers and you are easily pushing 4300-4400... They are not at all light but are 500-600 Lbs lighter than the newer generation U bodies... The old 3.1 you have makes 120 Hp, and I think 170 Ft Lbs... But it makes all of its torque at 2000 Rpms iirc... So for a 3.1 its got some low end grunt and will move the van 70-80 Mph no problem.. And you are right they are composite and fiberglass and still manage to weigh 3700-3800 Lbs dry.. Remove the panels and you'll see a full steel skeleton under them..

These vans were conceived in 1986, brought to the market in late 89 iirc... And were way ahead of their time... In some cases I think they are still ahead of their time...:)

..If it happens not to work , take notice I had to do a cleanup job of the internals of the cruise control actuator last summer...just a little patience needed to return it to full operation. Ask if needed.

A quick check I would do before anything else: check the 15A fuse on the "convenience center" (which is exactly the opposite of what it's name may suggest). That fuse was the one preventing my CC from working, and had some other unwanted consequences.

Yolanda is in very nice shape, in particular the interior. Best luck with it :)

BTW: If you want to know which options your car had originally (i.e. remote locks), this worked for me: http://www.compnine.com/vid.php

OK, after I installed the steering column, I was hoping a different cluster switch (the original one was broken) would again restore the cruise control. Unfortunately that's not the case. I checked ALL the fuses and even temporarily put the 20 AMP fuse back in for the electronic level control, but it still isn't working.

Any suggestions, and should I start a new thread for this topic?

I would start a separate thread for the cruise control problem.
You would benefit a lot from a OBD 1.5 interface... there a re several things that can prevent the cruise control from engaging, and many of thse can be easily seen using such interface. I built mine for less than $20.

In the meantime: is the TCC working? That may be a good way to steer your quest...

you can save this information in * and it will be much more practical and convenient
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