4wd dont work, only 2wd...

kjetilhansen · 02-05-2009, 04:52 AM

Hi.
I have a Kia Sportage 97, and the 4wd dont work... I have no idea what happent, cause it was like this when i bought it...
But the other work.. if i have it in 4wd low, it is strong, but still only the backwheels that work...
I heard somone talk about a vakuum thing that enables the drift on the front wheels, but i was hoping on some tips on how to check this, and mabe it's a know problem, and somone have a fix

LMP · 02-05-2009, 08:57 AM

A common problem...there are at least 2 dozen threads on this forum only, and the same on each other Sportage forum.

You probably have the vacuum hubs; you have probably no solution other than to change the hubs for manuals or automechanical, if you want full flexibility. I understand you live in Norway...so, nearly as cold as QUebec, and the seals for the vacuum (in the hubs, in the bearings, in the solenoid vacuum valve)..just cannot stand the cold. Maybe they would work in summer, but never in winter.
So..if you decide to change the hubs, you choose for the automatic or manual...and look for a supplier.
HOwever, if you want an immediate solution, then you can "lock" the vacuum hubs you have: remove the hubs, then the inner circlip of the hub, take parts out one at a time ...make sure you keep proper order and side, then once you have removed the return spring and piston , just reassemble by inverting the order of these 2 components, then reassemble all the rest as it was.
THe hubs will then be kept ON all the time, but you will still have 2WD or 4WD with the transfer case.
HOwever, in 2WD, the front drive train will always be in rotation by the wheels and it increases the drag and fuel burn...and it you stay in 2WD over a slippery surface, the rear wheels will have pain pushing all of that and it can lead to serious instability, so as soon as it is slippery, use 4WD so the front drive train is driven by the engine, not by the rear wheels.
Need more info? Come back for more as needed.

kjetilhansen · 02-05-2009, 09:47 AM

Hi, and thanks for a fast reply

Okay, so what you tell me here is that the seal that broke... Can i fix this whit somthing else?
I see you are talking about a automechanical hub.. What is this? Does this work the same way as the vakum hub, just whitout the vakum? Wouldent this be best? But i would be happy if you could give me a link to a place where i can buy this, cause Kia isent a big brand in norway, so i dont got any place to buy it...

LMP · 02-05-2009, 10:46 AM

Fixing the vacuum hubs is not an option.
THe automechanical (cam type as above) is the option for those who do not want the fuss of going out and in to turn the manual hubs ON or OFF. They are much more expensive, though; the manual are a simple bolt off bolt on affair, but the cam type need more parts to be replaced, and must come as a complete kit. See installation instructions here;
http://www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kia...hubinstall.pdf
Using the cam type (automechanical) needs more precaution than the vacuum, . WIth the vacuum, you could shift from 2WD to 4WD at any time, on the fly, but not with the cam type: 4WD must be engaged at a stand still (some will tell you can do it on the fly...but this will destroy them rapidly.) And to disengage the cam hubs, you must stop and back off 4 feet. but once you know how to take care, they are fine.
A search on the internet will reveal sellers. Warn Manual are 60247, cam type are 61918

I'll see around here what we have and return...
..check that out
for auto hubs : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WARN-...Q5fAccessories
for manual hubs http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WARN-...Q5fAccessories

NOtice a set of used vacuum is offered on e-bay, but the operation of vacuum rely not only on the hubs themselves, but all other seals in bearings..so not the way to go.

IN the mean time, although the possibility of a success is very remote, you can always pay attention to all the tubing that brings vacuum to the back of the wheel bearing, check for the operation of the solenoid valve,

even bypass the valve and connect the vacuum (from reserve) directly (to vacuum to hubs) in case the valve is frozen....you will then know for sure if the hubs/bearing seals are mortally shot....

kjetilhansen · 02-06-2009, 05:25 AM

Okay, i checked it, and now im not shure... When i saw the hubcap, it looked like the one to the left... the automatic one... But when i open the hood, i have the vakum thing and the solnoid valve... But i was thinkin about ebay... What do i search for to get new automatic hubcaps? Im norwegian, so i dont know the automatic cap is called (if it's just automatic caps i just made a fool out of myself hehe :P )

LMP · 02-06-2009, 12:52 PM

If it does not have the 2 vents on the front, then it is the cam type...meaning the original vacuum type (it has vacuum tubes on the back of bearings) had already been replaced with a cam type (auto-mechanical) ...and now they are defunct, it seems.
cam type will be destroyed very fast is one tries tu use them "on the fly" as permitted with the vacuum....so unless proper care was taken, they might very well have suffered from abuse. It is just too bad the vacuum type are unreliable, because they offered the best ease of use....

The two ebay links I have provided before show you exactly what to look for, either for the autos (Warn 61918 cam type, mechanical) or the manual type Warn 60247 Are you able to open those links ?
If you want to do another search, use keywords Kia Sportage Hubs.....and you will be offered all types; disregard any offering for the vacuum type (with the vents). If you add keyword 61918, you should see only the autos.
I know a Brasilian hub has been signaled by some....but I have no idea where to look for these.

kjetilhansen · 02-07-2009, 03:41 AM

Thank you for your help

Yeah, i am able to open the links.
But do i really need to buy new one... I just took the hubs off the car, and put it in 4wd and the center acle rotated... so i guess it's just the hubs thats broken... It's an old car... is it cheaper to try to find a repair kit or somthing...?

LMP · 02-07-2009, 08:20 AM

Confirm what type of hubs you have...
The only way the mechanical (cam type) can be inoperative is by the destruction of internal parts...so there is no way to repair them.
If it were the vacuum type, then the solution described before is at hand.
If you opt for a replacement, the manual type are half the price of the cam type automatics and very easy to install.
No repair kists are offered anywhere....and going for used hubs is subject to same problem... but scrap yards might have collected a wreck with functional hubs .... but you'd know for sure only after you try them
Of course...you can resolve to run 2WD only....

user151 · 02-14-2009, 10:44 AM

Check that the vacuum hoses into and out of the vacuum solenoid and canister, and to the hubs, are not cracked.
Cheaper to replace a hose than the locking hubs.

kjetilhansen · 02-14-2009, 11:04 AM

I have fixed the problem now...
I have the automatic one...
And when i took them off the car, i found out that only one of them where broken...
So i rebuilt bouth of them, so now the are manual hubcaps...
The only catch whit the "design" i used is that i have to change 3 bolts evry time i want to use 4wd...
But how often do you use it... and when you use it, you use it for at least a couple of hours... So i found it more easy to do it this way, then wait for my paycheck, and then order, and then wait for the package to arrive to norway... Maybe ill buy the warn hubcaps later, but for now ill manage whit my own design...

budicexxx · 07-10-2009, 07:11 AM

so i just figured out that my hubs do not dis-engage and i have the warn automechanicals. Prolly cause of not nowing about shifting on the fly. If i decided to go with the manuals is there any parts that i will have to change as there was added parts with these. Or will the mechanical warns hubs come with all needed parts.

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