Tie Rod Ends - Add a Grease Zerk?

[dougand3]

98 windstar 3.8L 112k miles. Getting some steering groan.

Anybody try drilling an 1/8" or 3/16" hole thru the top cap of the outer tie rod end and screwing in a grease zerk?

If I just replace them, how much alignment tweaking is needed?

Thanks for advice. Doug

[gschretter]

That might be a bad idea. Since everything is sealed that would not help anything if you try to put in grease in the fitting.

Make sure your power steering fluid is not low or old.

With the engine running:
Use something to suck the fluid out and pour in new and the turn the steering wheel a fews time and repeat about 6 - 7 times or until the fuild looks cleaner.

That should fix you problems, I HOPE !

Check the rod.

1. Lift the van up off the wheel.
2. Grad the rod and push and pull. If it is a little loose (GOOD).

If it is really loose - BAD - need to replace.

[lewisnc100]

If you have no other issues with your steering than the noise you might try a grease needle to get some grease in the tie rod ends.

[dougand3]

Thanks, gschretter. Tie rods are tight and ps is ok. The tie rod boots are flattened and empty.

Thanks, lewisnc. I read your post from jan 05 about the needle. You put the needle basically like the photo? And you got grease moving around the ball?




This is what I envisioned in this photo. A buddy more experienced in auto work said he tried it but made the hole too big for the zerk and said "aw, the h@#$ with it and replaced both tie rod ends. But then he had a long time tweaking the alignment.




I'm leaning toward the needle....is multipurpose lithium grease ok? Something better?

[lewisnc100]

Yes, and it doesn't take much. It will take a few miles for the grease to work around and eliminate the noise.

[sheppard35]

from what i was told, the factory doesn't put zerk fittings in their parts because they are made with plastics that some greeses could damage and cause premature failure.

[dougand3]

Thanks for your input, guys. I used the needle approach...steering definitely less noisy. The more I thought about drilling into the top, the more reasons came to mind not to...

1. Drill shavings around the ball.
2. How much clearance? Will zerk touch ball sometimes creating more noise?

Anyway, what I was mainly doing here was getting rotors turned....Whew doggies, this Windstar brakes better now...pulsations gone. Got them turned at O'reilly's Auto Parts....they were super nice...they charge $10 a rotor but only charged me for one because one had some outer scruff they couldn't quite eliminate. Another option to turn rotors is Pep Boys...they quoted $8 a rotor.

[98er]

Are you sure that the ends are still good? I am amazed that they've lasted so long. Mine were shot at 70K miles and groaned up a storm. There was a fair amount of play in them. Replaced with NAPA greasables. So much nicer. I do like your solution, though - cheaper.

If you decide to change them in the future, just carefully measure the length from the first thread to the center of the tie rod end. Screw the new one on for exact length to maintain toe. Done.

As for the rotors, mine were actually bad castings - squeaked like crazy. I had to replace them as no amount of cutting would change it.

Marc/Douglasville GA
98 Windstar
97SHO

[dougand3]

Marc, thanks for the suggestions on the greasables and the toe. Amazingly, the TRE are still tight. After I used Lewisnc100's needle trick...just hear a little power steering noise.