Shocks and struts replacement on 2003 Windstar LX

[searcherrr]

Now thinking about doing the struts/shocks myself, but I'd really like some feedback on that and if I need special tools to compress the struts/shocks etc..

My skill level is advanced, but my patience isn't. lol

I heard the cowl may have to come off to get the struts off. I want to order all new assemblies. I'm told the OEM struts are on there and for the shop to align the vehicle they'd need to unbolt the struts and while there they want to replace the OEM struts.

When I replaced all new assemblies in my 95 Windstar I was told the alignment camber plates weren't necessary because I'd returned the setup to factory specs. Could that be the case here for the 2003 too?

I don't want to mess with the sway bar. I'm told that is rubbing on something. I wanna let the shop deal with that, but is this part of replacing the struts.. and/or would I be in the convenience to do this while I do the struts?

This is a project for my handicapped mother. The van is going to her.

[northern piper]

hey

I read your other thread and don't think it's that bad overall. ( I realize I'm adding to this post but anyway..)

The brakes are easy, and replacing the wheel cylinders isn't that bad either. Count on having to replace the rigid brake lines from the wheel cylinder to the flex line. Those parts are very inexpensive. Once that's done, the bleed procedure is pretty simple. If you haven't already, get a subscription to alldatadiy.com. It'll be the best $20 you'll spend.

The sway bar bushings are not too bad, the only scary part is lowering the subframe by about 2 inches. The bushings are inexpensive and slip on pretty quick. I can do both sway bar bushings in 20 min.. I'm no super tech or anything, it's just not that bad a job.

Rear shocks are simple, and make sure the e-cable is out of the way an not rubbing on the shock, which is a common cause of the leaking along the cylinder.

Regarding the struts, I'd be using a quick strut when replacing what's there. They generally are around $200 each. You won't need a spring compressor, and assuming the design is the same as my 2000 (I think it is) you won't need any camber plates. I for sure would take the cowl off, it's a 10 min job and makes getting to the shock towers way easier. You may want to also replace the tie rod ends, the lower control arms, and the sway bar links. If you were to do this, you essentially have a new front end, and with the mileage on the van, it's work that likely will need to be done fairly soon. I replaced my sway bar bushings, links, inner/outer tie rod ends, LCAs, shocks/springs (with quick struts) for $680 tax in about 4 years ago as an example. The tires you'll have to buy and get installed of course and once the suspension stuff is done it'd be best to have an alignment, a reputable shop again is needed.

About a week before you plan to do the work, spray all the fasteners with some kroil or pb blaster. That'll get the fasteners loosened once you start to wrench.

I bet a weekend's worth of maintenance and you'd be done. I'd imagine the cost would be about 1/3 of what you've been told (ie: you'd be paying for parts only).

I've done all the jobs you mention and have no formal training. Get the alldata subscription and plan away. Any further questions, just post. There's lotsa good advice and willing "helpers" here.

np

[12Ounce]

I'm about to do the same job. I will use quick-struts. Much easier and safer, and you get all the upper bearing plate goodies replaced at the same time. I will also replace the lower control arms... they take a beating! Also the links and bar-bushings. I may even replace the rack ... for sure, all 4 tie rod ends. ( I'm also replacing my beat-up sub frame member.)

[scubacat]

I did the quick struts. Not too difficult. You should remove the cowl though; will make life a LOT easier.

I recommend a sledge hammer to dislodge the strut from the knuckle. It takes a little bit of convincing

[scubacat]

FYI, make sure you don't get the monroe "econo" or "monroe-matic" struts. They're complete garbage. Get the "quickstrut" brand (which is the "sensa-trac" already assembled).

If all the parts are old, I don't see any use in only replacing the strut. The quickstrut saves literally 75% of the total amount of labor, is a lot safer (not having to compress the springs), and gives you all new parts for a fraction of the cost. After 10 years, I figured the bearing plates had to be old too, the springs couldn't possibly be as strong as new,... even the rubber boot can wear out. An extra $50 for all that PLUS assembly? I'm surprised anyone buys the parts individually anymore (other than if one specific part is defective or something).

The difference the new struts make is incredible!

[phil-l]

I did the struts myself on my Windstar. It's a very reasonable DIY job.

I transferred the original spring to the new strut. I know many people like the quick struts, but it only took me a few minutes to swap the spring. I used the basic Harbor Freight spring compressor (about $10 on sale). Windstar springs aren't heavily compressed; it wasn't a big deal.

I decided I trusted the original real Ford springs more than springs chosen by the strut manufacturer. Your mileage may vary.

Yes, you'll need to remove the cowl. Everything is easy to get to with the cowl off - plus you've created an ideal opportunity for a quick spark plug change.

I took some pictures of my strut replacement project here:

http://s892.photobucket.com/user/e39...?sort=6&page=1

[searcherrr]

Funny how I went from one end of the spectrum to the other ... I started out with a 95 Windstar - first year made and now I've got a 2003 Windstar - last year made. lol irony... and yet the same work has to be done that I did on the 95. lol

You guys are great. Thanks. I guess I just need to get the parts and go to town on it. I just don't know if I have it in me to spend a whole weekend on it and I bet it will take that or more out of me since I'm not in the greatest shape.

So, the rear shocks... nothing to it? No compression needed? Just unbolt the tire, unbolt the struts and they slide right off/on without any compression needed? The shocks easy to compress if I need to or I'm not going to need to?

I've gone front end work before on my 3000GT and I pushed the bearings out of the control arms and back into them to save money. Its amazing how much time you save once you've done something 1 time before. I think I will never do that again despite the cost of the new lower control arms on my 3000. Windstar lower control arms are considerably less in cost.

What special tools would I need to do the front end linkage work? Any you can think of ??

Whats this about lowering the subframe 2 inches to do the sway bar bushings??? You mean I have to detach the subframe from something to get them in???

[phil-l]

Yes, the rear shocks are a simple bolt-out, bolt-in job. I'll note that an impact wrench speeds things along, and saves skinned knuckles.

I haven't done the other front-end items you mentioned, so I can't comment...

[12Ounce]

Shocks normally are fairly easy to compress ... some force is required usually though as they are all gas-filled these days. Springs are a different matter.

There are no special tools needed for front suspension work on a Windstar ... if you are not going to compress the springs. But I would recommend jacking up both sides fully (wheels off ground) at the same time .... if you try to work on one side at a time the anti-sway bar is going to be working against you.

The sub frame is held in place by 4 bolts. I recommend you first remove one of the rear bolts totally just to see how long it is and all. Yes, lower the rear of the sub frame a bit to get better access to the anti-sway bar bushings. Work safely!!

[northern piper]

when I replace sway bar bushings I put the van on ramps, chock the rear wheels. Then I use 2 bottle jacks that are under the rear part of the sub frame. I unscrew one of the rear sub frame bolts about an inch, then use the bottle jack to slowly lower the sub frame down. Then I go to the opposite side, lowering again about an inch. I think about an inch is all that's really needed to allow for a box wrench to sneak in and unscrew the bolt that holds the sway bar bushing yoke in place. (only 1 yoke bolt is tight to get to). Once both bolts on the bushing yoke are out, replace the bushing and reinstall the yoke, bolts and torque. For the record, I've never been able to torque the rear bolt on the yoke as it's impossible to get a socket and torque wrench on it. I suppose a crows foot wrench and torque wrench would work (I don't have crows feet wrenches). Anyway, tighten it up as tight as it was coming off and you'll be fine.

[olopezm]

When you do the rear shocks don't let the axle hang. It says that on the manual, put a jackstand or a floor jack to keep it from haging.

That's all I would add, you've been given very good information.

Oscar.

[northern piper]

when you do the rear shocks, just do them 1 at a time. A jack under the axle side you're on to help move it up or down a bit. With stands under either side at the rear and wheels off shock replacement is only as hard as getting the fasteners off.

[fy171]

2 of: Monroe 171920 Quick-Strut Complete Strut Assembly
Condition: New
Sold by: Just Suspension (seller profile)
$109.28

2 of: Monroe 37110 Sensa-Trac Light Truck Shock Absorber
Condition: New
Sold by: Just Suspension (seller profile)
$35.00


i bought these for my 2002 windstar

[scubacat]

I've done the sway bar bushings twice and have never lowered the subframe to do so. A GearWrench will make that job quick and easy.

[searcherrr]

Originally Posted by phil-l

Yes, the rear shocks are a simple bolt-out, bolt-in job. I'll note that an impact wrench speeds things along, and saves skinned knuckles.

I haven't done the other front-end items you mentioned, so I can't comment...

I love it when I get a simple and easy answer. Most of the times things are never easy to answer. lol - Then I will do the rears myself. No biggie. Though it wouldn't cost much to do at the shop either and would save me time, but thats less $ in my pocket too.