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Re: RX7 Info Summary ~
Type: FD3S all series ~
Quote:
3rd Generation. The 1993-1995 RX-7 has been available for over 10 years now, and people have been discussing it on the internet for nearly that long. The internet can be an excellent source of information, but finding that information is not always easy.
This Frequently Asked Questions page is a list of answers to many of the basic questions that many people have asked. Please read this entire page carefully, it is a very thorough introduction to the 1993-1995 model year RX-7. You can also use the Find ( [Ctrl]-[F] ) function of your browser to quickly find any specific topic or keyword you are looking for on this page. For greater detail, use the forum-wide Search tool to read past discussions. You can learn more about how to use the forum features here: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=614002
Also included is a list of useful links regarding common modifications and other noteworthy topics that have been discussed in the past. Feel free to reply to this topic with links to other threads that you think should be included. The moderators will occasionally add noteworthy topics to the list and delete your post to keep things tidy. Thanks.
FD FAQ, version 0.6
D. Geesaman, 11/13/04, with contributions from Jimlab, Jonski, Adam_C, and Rated R1.
Edited, 10/20/05
1) Why did I get flamed in my 3rd gen forum post?
2) Why am I being told to 'search'?
3) What is a SMIC/DP/MP/CB/<acronym>?
4) Is the FD a good daily driver? How reliable are FDs?
5) What should I look for when buying an FD?
6) This will be my first car.
7) How much does it cost?
8) Which versions of the FD have turbos?
9) What is an R1? What is a touring?
10) Should I get a 94 or 95 since I heard they are better than 93s?
11) How many FDs were made?
12) Can I import an FD into the US from overseas?
13) What does RX-7 stand for?
14) What does FD stand for?
15) How fast is a stock FD?
16) What is the stock horsepower? What does it weigh?
17) What mods do I need to make 300hp? 400hp? 500hp?
18) What mods do I need to make 12s? 11s? sub-11s? (in the quarter mile)
19) How hard is it to put a 3 rotor / 20b in an FD?
20) What about a 4 rotor?
21) Is a 6 speed transmission an option?
22) How much Nitrous Oxide can it handle?
23) What about the RX-8 engine (Renesis)? Isn't the RX-8 is an upgrade of the RX-7?
24) When does an engine need rebuilt? I heard FD engines only last 60k, is this true?
25) What does a rebuild cost?
26) Is an original engine better than a rebuilt? Does a rebuilt engine indicate the car is a lemon?
27) If running lean is such a problem, should I add an Air/Fuel Ratio gauge?
28) What should the compression be?
29) What's the best BOV?
30) What's the loudest/quietest/best exhaust?
31) How do I turn up the boost?
32) Can I work on this car myself? What manual is best?
33) Which oil should I use?
34) How should I drive it? How do I maintain it?
Welcome to The RX7Club 3rd Gen Forum:
1) Why did I get flamed in my 3rd gen forum post?
Four common reasons:
1) You raised an issue that was discussed many times in the past. Redundant threads cluttering the forums take visibility away from threads about new subjects. Members on this forum are expected to educate themselves as much as possible BEFORE starting a new thread. Use this FAQ, the links above, and the forum search tool as much as possible before posting new threads. If you don’t have the patience to find your answers by searching, then our experiences with FDs suggest this isn’t a good car for you. The first page of the 3rd Gen forum is a very busy place, and one day when you really need help you’ll appreciate that your question isn’t being bumped off by unnecessary threads.
2) You aren’t writing in clear English. The problem is not people who speak English as their second language (don’t be shy if you're not good with English!). The problem is lazy English speakers who choose not to spell words correctly, use complete sentences, and break their text into paragraphs. If you want serious expert responses, don't write like a child.
3) Your subject line was inaccurate or belongs in a different forum. Don’t put to get more attention for your question about a squeaky hatch. Put the main question in the subject line – after doing a few searches you’ll come to appreciate why the subject line is important.
4) Displaying a lack of understanding AND unwillingness to learn for yourself. Turbo rotaries are much different from other sports cars, and there is much to learn. All of us went through this learning process, so we’ll be helpful if you are genuinely trying. Continue reading this FAQ and the links in it, and you’ll be very well on your way.
2) Why am I being told to 'search'?
Before creating a new post, check to see if the 'bible' reference sites cover it, and next run a forum search. The big sites include: Scuderia Ciriani, Rob Robinette’s site, Max Cooper’s Site, Derek Vanditmar’s Turbo Troubleshooting site, Dave Disney’s site, and TurboRX-7. There are other FAQs, too: FAQ 1, FAQ 2, FAQ 3, FAQ 4. Most posters refer to them, and expect the same from others. With a little practice, obtaining answers this way is much faster than relying on a new thread. It takes time for people to write responses, so be respectful and do your best to search even if "I don't have time for a search". Use the words and abbreviations that get used here: so, use “downpipe” or “precat” instead of “Primary Catalyst”.
3) What is a SMIC/DP/MP/CB/<acronym>?
Refer to the glossary section at the end of this FAQ. Or do a search. (Tip: if the term is only 2 letters, add an asterisk: ‘DP*’)
Considering a third-gen RX-7?
4) Is the FD a good daily driver? How reliable are FDs?
Not really and not very. Fuel costs are high due to low gas mileage and the requirement of premium grade gasoline (91+ (PON) octane in the US, or 95 RON). The interior doesn't fit much cargo and is limited to one passenger. The low stance can cause other cars to not see you, and you won’t easily see around them. They are a poor choice for driving in bad weather. Most forum regulars either use a daily driver car or have some alternate transportation in case the FD needs work. You do not want be tempted or forced to drive your FD with an undiagnosed problem.
This car is as reliable as you make it. A stock engine, with reliability mods, up-to-date maintenance, driven properly, will be fairly reliable. But modifications or neglect by past owners will generally reduce reliability.
5) What should I look for when buying an FD?
There are at least two versions of the unofficial FD buyer’s guide: version 1, version 2.
6) This will be my first car.
First, please respect your vehicle. The number of FDs is steadily dwindling, and new drivers will subject their car to abuse both by accident and by laziness. FDs do not handle such abuse gracefully. But the more important point is that an FD is not a beginner's car. The low weight, turbocharged engine, rear-wheel drive require the driver to respond very quickly and accurately. Young drivers (we all were new drivers once) will make mistakes. This is arguably one of the worst cars to 'learn' in. It takes very little effort to make a deadly mistake in this car. If you are starting out and insist on power and performance, we suggest a 1st or 2nd gen RX-7 or an AWD sports car like an Evo or WRX.
Also get an insurance quote first - the insurance industry is well aware of this track record and you find insurance rates reflect that. High risk drivers will pay.
If you intend to do any high speed driving on public roads, even deserted ones, please review this thread: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...98#post4454598
7) How much does it cost?
The additional costs of an FD are not just high compared to all cars, but even to most sports cars in the same price class. Be sure to consider the price of the car, additional insurance, maintenance, gas, reliability modifications. As of August 2004, stock FDs in good running condition sell for $11-18k US. Even with a stock setup, the annual maintenance can easily exceed $1k/year, and modifications add much more. Owners should ideally have extra money available in case of a major repair. Even with these costs, the sheer performance of the FD makes a great value, which is why they are still used by many for autocross or track racing.
8) Which versions of the FD have turbos?
All FDs left the factory with twin turbos. These run at 10psi in sequential mode and can be felt from 2k all the way to redline, especially from 4500 up, when both turbos are operating. Any single turbo installations you see are aftermarket.
9) What is an R1? What is a touring?
Different option packages. The R1 was the sport version in 1993, and the R2 was the equivalent sport version from 94-95. R1/R2s have different suspension, synthetic suede seat covers, an extra oil cooler, front lip and rear spoiler, were not available with automatic transmissions, and more. The Touring (similar to the PEP and PEG) has conveniences like Bose stereo, foglights, leather seats, moonroof or sunroof. The Base model could have some of these options added. It is possible to mix/match these optional components yourself, so when shopping it can be tricky to identify the option package. The option package is not in the VIN code, however you may use the VIN code to request the build sheet from Mazda which contains details of the original factory configuration. See the links for detailed info.
10) Should I get a 94 or 95 since I heard they are better than 93s?
The 94s and 95s have some improvements that were not in the 93s, however today the differences are not signficant compared to maintenance history, repairs, and condition. There are 3 recalls on some of the 1993 models, contact your dealer to find if your 1993 car has had them performed. If not, get them done immediately – Mazda will perform them for free. Generally, the differences are minor and are overshadowed by issues of condition, maintenance, mileage, and aging. If you insist on having a later year, expect to pay more and search harder.
11) How many FDs were made?
http://alecto.bittwiddlers.com/vehic...-numbers.shtml
Here are the numbers of RX-7s sold in the United States through 1995.
Model 1992 1993 1994 1995
--------------------------------
Base . 763 1245 392 153
R-model 1107 1015 275 182
Touring 2991 2734 1010 648
P.E.G. 0 53 533 416
· P.E.G. = "Popular Equipment Group" (Formerly called "PEP")
· The 1992 vehicles are considered to be part of the 1993 US model year sales.
US importation declined quickly after the 1993 year due to reduced demand blamed largely on the cost and reliability issues. In 1996, the new OBD-II emissions requirements and lagging US sales effectively ended its importation, although non-US markets saw the 3rd Gen up to 2002.
Some information about non-US production is here.
For information about other generations and versions offered in non-US markets, this wikipedia article, this website and this website, and this thread, and this thread offer good information.
12) Can I import an FD into the US from overseas?
Not legally, that any of us are aware, but it depends on the state and the intended use of the vehicle. Some owners have managed to import a 92-95 model and get the cars registered and insured fraudulently, but considering there is essentially no difference it is generallly not worthwhile. It is extremely expensive to legally import a later version of this car for many reasons, much more than the cost of the cars themselves. If you see an FD with 96+ trim, it’s probably a 93-95 with imported parts added later.
13) What does RX-7 stand for?
According to Moray Callum of Mazda, RX officially stands for Rotary Sports, and always has.
14) What does FD stand for?
FD is a nickname for the 3rd generation RX-7. It comes from the chassis code FD3S, also included in the VIN. Likewise, the first generation RX-7 is commonly called the FB, and the second generation goes as FC3S (FC). FD is also the 4th and 5th characters of the VIN. (JM1FD…)
Performance and Modifications:
15) How fast is a stock FD?
Magazine reviewers published 0-60 times from 4.9s to 5.4s. Published quarter mile times vary from 13.8 to 14.1s at about 100mph. For automatic transmission-equipped models, the times are a few tenths slower in both tests. Mazda did not officially publish these numbers.
16) What is the stock horsepower? What does it weigh?
255HP, 217ft-lb at the flywheel. This is about 220Hp at the rear wheels (DynoJet dyno). Modified cars are always quoted in rear wheel horsepower, and remember that this rating differs depending on the dyno used.
The FD weights are as follows:
Code:
Base, 5-speed 2,789 lb
Base, Auto 2,857 lb
R1/R2, 5-speed 2,800 lb
Touring/PEP, 5-speed 2,862 lb
Touring/PEP, Auto 2,923 lb
For more detailed performance specifications, see here.
17) What mods do I need to make 300hp? 400hp? 500hp?
Since stock power levels already push the limits of the car, begin with maintenance items: fuel filter, tranny and differential oil, spark plugs and wires, coolant change, injector cleaning, bleed brakes, replace fuel pulsation damper, coolant hoses, etc. Next, install reliability modifications (alternate list) to correct weaknesses in the factory design: all-aluminum radiator, downpipe, aluminum AST or AST elimination, vacuum hose job, boost gauge, coolant temp gauge, modify cooling fans by thermoswitch replacement or manual control, and others. Finally, it is time to add power mods. FDs respond to power modifications and tuning but can’t handle more than a couple bolt-on power mods until fuel, boost levels, and re-tuning are considered. This advice isn’t meant to slow down your progress, but to ensure you don’t destroy your car. It’s happened many times before, and with modified engines pushing the limits of the stock engine systems, the reliability mods become necessities. See this thread for further info.
i) 300HP can be achieved with some bolt-on mods and piggy-back ECU tuning. For example, Pettit Racing offers a +60hp package for under $1500. M2 Performance has a 290HP kit for $2000, and 315HP kit for $3500. 300hp already exceeds the stock ECU’s fuel maps, so the list includes a remapped ECU as well as intake, exhaust, and intercooler upgrades. Any similar set of quality bolt-on will yield similar performance. Any power beyond this point is difficult to pass emissions testing.
ii) 400HP – At this point, it gets tougher to keep the power on the road, so upgraded tires and suspension should also be considered. One fellow planned his path to 400hp in advance to be $10k plus installation time. This list of power mods includes full exhaust, intake, upgraded turbos, reliability mods, upgraded fuel and ignition system, engine porting, standalone engine computer and wideband O2 sensor, clutch, intercooler and tuning.
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__________________
Quote:
"Driving a Mazda RX7 on the track for the first time was very cool ? this is a production car that most
resembles the movement of a formula car in my experience so far." ~ Igor
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Last edited by jcsaleen; 09-27-2007 at 08:23 AM.
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