Heater Hoses

[Mustang_Driver]

I developed a leaking heater hose on my 2001 windstar with the 3.8l motor. the hos in particular is the one beside the upper radiator hose looks like a snap together fitting goes back to the firewall splits into a "T" and drops under the van and the other end to the heater core i am guessing it goes to the back to provide heat for rear heat option..


i need a part number for this hose as ford has discontinued pretty much all parts for this van being as it is 21 years old but only has 188000km on it


i have seen other hoses online but they look nowhere near what i have or the ones don't have rear heat option


if anyone knows the part number i can try and order it online somewhere but in the meantime i will keep checking youtube videos maybe someone has a video changing this hose

[12Ounce]

Just for starters, try:
Dorman #626-225, and #626-210
along with Dayco #88411 and #88496.
.
Happy Hunting!

[tomj76]

If you can get your Ford dealership parts department to give you a part number, check e-bay. They often have many discontinued parts available.

[Mustang_Driver]

thanks for the reply i have since put vehicle out to pasture....it will make someone a nice new smartcar someday with the amount of metal in it....the other day while driving home i pulled into an intersection and felt a surge then it just died on me got it restarted but afterwards it was only running on 3 cylinders...not sure if a timing chain jumped but i now have misfires on cylinders 1,3,5 and it says the ignition coil a primary circuit/secondary circuit faulty.. so my code reader shows p0301,p0303,p0351,p0305...funny it drove fine going for my birthday breakfast but coming home this....i can't see why it was fine one sec then this..so being unemployed i put it to pasture and gave up on fixing it

[fredjacksonsan]

Bummer that it tanked on you… Sounds like it might just be a coil thing but it could run into a little bit of expense.

For the heater hose I was going to suggest that you take the old part to a parts store and have them match it up… They have a certain diameter and can cut it to length.

[Mustang_Driver]

Originally Posted by fredjacksonsan

Bummer that it tanked on you… Sounds like it might just be a coil thing but it could run into a little bit of expense.

For the heater hose I was going to suggest that you take the old part to a parts store and have them match it up… They have a certain diameter and can cut it to length.

i thought about that as well it's just that they are formed hoses that run from the drivers side to the firewall and t-off and one goes under the van to?? and the other to the heater core...i am definitely looking at fixing the van and may do some sort of a give-away for it for like the christmas giveaway to help a family in need but then if it runs fine after i spend the money on it i might just keep it as my spare vehicle it has a trailer hitch and is wired and comes with snow tires so its good to go.....will decide this weekend what i am doing with it i might just scrap it yet i hate throwing 150 dollars at a coil to find that it's not the problem

[fredjacksonsan]

A formed hose might be a little tougher, but it's doable if you really need the rear heat.


But ... If you never have passengers in back, why not just disconnect the rear heat entirely? I'd just run a short loop of heater hose from the outlet back to the inlet, or put a straight connector at the "T". You weren't clear on which hose had the problem...some pics might help.


But...the running on 3 cylinders...still doing it?

[wiswind]

I had a 1996 model year without the rear heat/ac unit.
They made major changes in 1999.
My suggestion would be as someone already suggested, get the same size heater hose in bulk and some hose clamps. I also had a quick connector that I had difficulty with, they get brittle after some years and mine broke while working with it. I got another one and it was the wrong size, but found that I was able to eliminate the whole connector and shove the hose onto the metal nipple and use a stainless steel screw type hose clamp. It was secure and lasted for years without issue.

If you do run your own self custom hoses, just make sure that they don't rub sharp/rough places or hang down. You can use some hose covers of some sort where there is issue of rubbing or where you need to put some sort of fastener to hold the hose in place.

Running on 3 cylinders. You will be getting all sorts of codes so finding the root cause is going to be the main goal. Of course, you already know you have 'misfire' since 3 cylinders are not working. The issue you will have is if the 3 dead cylinders are getting fuel and not firing, you will have gasoline going down into the catalytic converter.
This is the reason you get a flashing CEL for a misfire fault, as it is a fault that can cause the catalytic converters to get SUPER hot. For this reason, you don't want to run the engine for long in this condition.
As you have already been advised, it is possible to be the coil pack. Each coil fires 2 cylinders. In short, there are 3 coils in the coil pack, each coil sends a spark to 2 cylinders with each input pulse, but only 1 of those 2 cylinders has fuel in it. So only 1 will fire. This is why they often call this a 'wasted spark' system. The coil pack is in a molded epoxy block. The epoxy block can develop cracks and the spark will arc through there instead of going to the spark plug.

The condition of your spark plugs and spark plug wires is something else to look at.
A strange troubleshooting trick that comes to mind is if you can track down one of those old time timing lights and use that to clip to each cylinder's spark plug wire and see if that individual cylinder is getting spark. They would clip over the spark plug wire for cylinder #1 and it would flash with each spark. I would think you could check all 6 cylinders this way for spark.

[azharj]

I had the same problem. in 2011 on my 2000 windstar now 360,000 miles. I did same as Wisiwind has suggested and it is working well till to-date. In 2016, two plastic Ts for the back heater, also broke I replaced from plumbing shop to metal Ts. These are still working. During this time I have replaced twice the heater core.
In 2011 and 2012 engine stoped randomly after highway 200 miles and sometimes worked well even after 1000 contineous highway drive. yet it started immediately each time. At other times it stopped every twenty or fifty miles. In the scity worked well. No check engine light no codes. The mechanics changed feul pump cleaned injecotors, changed TPS. Then I planned to change all the sensors one by one but one shop boy asked me why do you want CPK sensor. He suggested me to change coilpack instead buying Crankshaft sensor. Since then I do not have any truobl. Strangely, One chinese with no name code reader and in 2016 could retrive all 6 years hisotry by date and time the codes for IMRC and coil pack. though during this time many a times car battery was changed head gasket and valves were changed. while many shops even ford dealers could not detect anything. Now I have autel. It is great help when CEL is on. In 2020 there was bank 2 catalyst convertor code that disappered with plug fouler between the catalyst and Oxygen sensor. I tried cleaning the catalyst convertor as many youtube videos but cleaning does not work