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Old 08-19-2005, 04:34 PM   #1
Savior1974
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DSMlink settings 2 (didn't want to hijack the other one)

wow, good question tsi4444, What do you guys I should set my Rev limiter and Stutter setting at? Right now I have the stutterbox set at 5500, and I have the rev limiter set at 7500. Is that fine or should I change em? BTW I plan on getting a DSMLink run up today, Kevin I hope your on. Anyone Else know how to tune DSMLink? I think it's time I learn so I can get this boost up.

BTW yesterday I raced a JDMspecH22CRX (220hp stock) with bolt on's and that was gutted. He made me run him at 9psi, with a 200lb passenger, and with my windows down and sunroof open. I screwed up the launch cause his buddy (who is my cousin, I hate him now... fucking loser went from wanting a 1gen DSMAWD, to now being hooked on honda) FAG FLAGGED on purpose so I couldn't get up to my stutterbox. But at the end of first, had about a car, end of second about 2 cars, end of 3rd had about a bus or more . You should have saw the look on his face........ priceless LOL

LOL and this was a cocky MFer. So it felt good to spank that ass.
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Old 08-19-2005, 04:53 PM   #2
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Well, to tune it you really just need to work the fuel tables little by little until you have your desired A:F across the board. Then when thats all good and you aren't experiancing any knock, you can up the timing a little. Its going to take a lot of runs, and its usually best to do 3rd gear pulls.There are some formulas in the manual for figuring out how much to change your fuel settings...its very overwhelming at first, but the things you need to look for are knock and you IDC.
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Old 08-19-2005, 04:53 PM   #3
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Re: DSMlink settings 2 (didn't want to hijack the other one)

those settings sound fine. the studder seems a little high, but your on a 50trim. From my limited unerstanding of studder, you just want it right above full boost threshold. so when you launch you will be at full boost.

Revlimiter is just saftey. your 50trim need room to grow. I dont know enough to say whats safe for your setup. But once you get new lifter/cams/springs/retaners you'll be good for 8500+

I have a narrow idea/understanding of Dsmlink. I was lucky enough to have read only access to the dsmlink forums for the last few months. I've read/learned what i could in that time, but would really posse no real help. I have the dsmlink software on my computer at home. If you dont mind sending me a log over e-mail. i'll take a peek.

Scottsee@hotmail.com
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Old 08-19-2005, 05:08 PM   #4
Savior1974
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Re: DSMlink settings 2 (didn't want to hijack the other one)

Actually I'm running a 60-1 T3/T4 turbo scott, and my boost hits full boost at about 4500 rpms. So is that where the studder should be?
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1998 Eclipse GSX (Sold)

Act 2600, Apexi 3" downpipe, 3" exhaust, Hks 3"-5" muffler, Greddy TypeS BOV, Autometer Boost/Vac & Air fuel Gauge, Garrett T3/T4 60-1 turbo (Only boosting 15 psi) Tial 38mm Wastegate, Spearco FMIC, Greedy Profec B2, HKS Turbo Timer Type, Dejon Intake/K&N Air Filter, DSMLink, Eprom ECU, 950cc Fuel Injectors, Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump, Aeromotive FPR, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, B&M Short Shifter
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Old 08-19-2005, 08:50 PM   #5
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Re: DSMlink settings 2 (didn't want to hijack the other one)

The stutter rpm depends entirely on your launch technique. I use 5500 rpm almost invariably, and I tend to really slip the clutch for a long time. I don't change that rpm for anything, wether I'm getting zero boost on a T67, or 18 psi on a 14b, the result is the same. 7500 rpm soudns fine. I tend to rev a little higher with cams, so I set it at 7750 or 8k so I can go all the way to 7500 without hitting the limit by accident.

The best thing to do is to first determine wether or not you can trust your air metering device. If you can, and you know what your injectors are (in other words the rated size is reliable) you can pretty much trust the DSMlink AF Ratio calculation. A WBO2 is more reliable of course, but this is better than nothing. I target 11:1 on pump gas almost invariably, and stick to something close to stock timing (all zeros). Thats usually a very good start, provided there is nothing "wrong" with your car, like bad base timing, base fuel pressure, vac/boost leaks, wacky injectors, inadequate pump, or bad airflow metering, etc.
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