Yet ANOTHER "security light" thread.... except...

[covertcelery]

I am completely overhauling this initial post so that people can understand what this thread is about...

There IS a fix if you have had or currently are experiencing problems with your car not starting because of the "Security" light coming on. This will even deal with what you can do to possibly start your car so that you can fix the problem. (Note: that might not always work in some cases.)


The following instructions are written SPECIFICALLY for a Chevy Impala that use the Passlock II system. HOWEVER, these instructions are good for ALL GM vehicles, the only difference is that the diagrams will probably be slightly different.


This thread will also deal with what to do if you are experiencing "weird" strobing or flashing lights in your car at random times. Some people have also experienced the following symptoms:


-Random lights flashing on and off.
-Traction control light turning on and off randomly.
-Power windows / Power locks not working randomly.
-Lights inside the car flickering.
-Fog lights turning on and off by themselves.
-Hearing "clicking" sounds by the fuse box in conjunction with random lights.



I will try and have kind of a running wiki in this first post to help people with getting into the specific post that they need for the problem they're having.



What to do if you're having problems with the security light coming on, but your car still runs fine.



What to do if you're having problems with the security light coming on AND your car does not start, or does not start intermittently.

1)First, try the SECURITY RELEARN PROCEDURE in this link


2)If above does not work, try this - clean out your ignition switch.


3)If cleaning out your ignition switch does not work, you may have to do the following - in some cases possibly ALL THREE:

a) Do the "Bypass Method". (Thanks to Ponchonutty)

b) Replace your ignition cylinder. Here is a quick guide on how you can do this yourself. (Just a quick FYI if you're going to replace your own ignition cylinder).

c) If you have an aftermarket alarm system (ie. remote start)... You will probably have to remove the entire board and RESPLICE the wiring correctly.

For those attempting to do the above themselves this diagram shows you a picture of all the wires and how remote starts generally work. Do this ONLY if you know what you're doing.



4) If you've done ALL of the above - and it still doesn't work, I recommend changing your BCM. Here is a picture of a BCM on an Impala - and the post will also tell you where to get to it to replace it. (Thanks to HeMi101)

(A WORD OF CAUTION ON REPLACING YOUR BCM: Since the new BCM has to be programmed with the new BCM already installed in the vehicle - you will not be able to install the new BCM and drive it. It will have to be programmed before your car will start)






If you are having weird issues with you car, like the automatic doors/windows won't work. Lights flickering, etc.. More than likely, your BCM is bad or going bad. Do option number 4 above.




Good Luck, and I hope this helps people.

[HeMi101]

Well someone correct me if im wrong, but couldn't you get a used Ignition w/ a key for cheap just to test, and swap them out, do a sec. relearn and BANG you'll know if it fixes it or not?

Anyways,
As soon as anyone says they have the "Service Vehicle Soon" light on the message center, I know something BCM related is not working and every time i see people say random lights are coming up, 80% of the time it IS a bad BCM.

Here is what a BCM looks like:


And its not hard to locate. you really don't need a picture or a diagram.
Pull down the black Kick cover (2 little clips that you push) under the driver side of the dash, and its above (but slightly towards the front of the car) the Parking brake pedal. If i remember correctly, you'll see the three connectors connected to it (Grey, Grey and Pink) and the black clip that holds it to a metal bracket. I'll see if i can find any pictures, but should be findable from the description above. All i was told the first time was "above the parking brake" and i found it.

You can have it programed by any shop with a Tech II Programmer, not just a dealer. COULD be cheaper (was 50$ to program ours at our usual Mechanic's shop vs 140$ for programming at the dealer we bought it from).

One place to look is Rock Auto:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2888

But there is many other places.

[covertcelery]

Hemi, thanks for the info...

I went to the website you linked to, and it has about 4 different ones... Does it matter which type I get? Are the only differences between them is their manufacturer, or is it for different type of vehicles?


Also, are these remanufactured? If so (which isn't a problem for me) - can they be programmed... Cuz from what I understand is that used ones can not be reprogrammed, but I'm thinking remanufactured ones can???






So far you're ahead $20.... unless someone can find them cheaper.... Though you've got $10 at the minimum hemi; thanks!





BTW - I've heard a million times about the relearn sequence... and every time I read a different post, the process is a little bit different...


Does anybody know the actual relearn sequence?

[HeMi101]

I thought all were the same, but by their listing 9C1's (Police Package) had different ones.

I'm pretty sure you want either "ACDELCO Part # 21812285, $131.89" or "A-1 CARDONE Part # 730320 $89.79".

Gmpartsdirect.com has them listed at $118.07 and I believe they are a dealership selling parts online, so that SHOULD be a brand new ACDLECO part at that price. http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/catalog/frameset.cfm And choose 01/Chevy(geo)/Impala and search for body control module. I tried to get a direct link but no dice.

Also Check your PMs cuz i sent you one.


And What they mean by manufactured is they made sure the boards were good, and replaced the P-ROM that contains your RPOs and Serial #, so ya its blank and ready for programming.

As far as security Relearns go, This is the one we have stickied at another Impala Website.

Originally Posted by North American Impala Owners Association

Introduction

Here are the directions for doing a security relearn.

Procedure

Make sure you follow this procedure to completion for correct operation. The doors and trunk must remain closed for the entire procedure

Properly executed, this procedure should take approximately 35 minutes to complete.

1. Attempt to start the car by turning the key to the Start/Run Position.

2. Observe that the vehicle fails to start and that the security light is illuminated.

3. Release key to the 'ON/Accessory' Position. (DO NOT turn key to the 'off' position.)

4. Allow the vehicle to sit with the key in the 'ON/Accessory' Position for no less than 11 minutes. At the end of the 11 minutes, the security light will shut off

5. Turn key to off position and allow the vehicle to remain in the 'OFF' position for no less than 30 seconds.

6. Repeat #1 - #5 for 3 cycles. 7. On 4th attempt, car should start.

NOTE : Since this is a fairly long procedure, it's a good idea to limit all electrical sources, such as disconnecting headlights, to prevent discharge of battery.

NOTE 2 : It is OK to wait LONGER than the allotted time, but it is not safe to wait less time. I.e. 12 minutes instead of 11 minutes should be OK; however, waiting 10 minutes instead of 11 minutes will result in a failed security relearn.

[covertcelery]

Alright Hemi...


I think I got it! I'm holding the BCM in my hands right now as a matter of fact... yay!


Thanks for all the info. I decided to also replace the ignition switch on it, I figured I might as well kill two birds with one stone...


It was funny, because I went down to take the bcm out and I noticed that one of the wires was damaged pretty good like not even an inch out of one of the pins... So I had a HELL of a time trying to splice that faaaacker back together, but I think I got it.


I hope to all heck that this works because I'm tired of just looking at my POS car in the garage... It would be nice to be able to actually drive it.




Its funny, I talked to one of my friends who also has same year Impala... And they started getting the security light as well. I informed him of all the fun stuff I'm doing... yay.

[HeMi101]

the Security Light it self doesn't mean He's gonna have BCM problems, but I do foresee a new Ignition in the future! I've had the Security Light come up as often as 3 - 4 times a week for the last year and a half and no problems yet Knock on wood.

[covertcelery]

Now here's another question Hemi...

I'm looking at my ignition switch AND cylinder... Do you think I ought to change the cylinder or just the switch... (cuz they both run about $100 a pop)... Cuz the cylinder (the key) works fine, but I figured I ought to probably change out the switch at least.

And since I now have to (I screwed up the switch, but the cylinder is still fine) I know I have to replace at least that. But oh well. I figure the cylinder is fine, just maybe the switch was the problem?

[HeMi101]

Originally Posted by covertcelery

Now here's another question Hemi...

I'm looking at my ignition switch AND cylinder... Do you think I ought to change the cylinder or just the switch... (cuz they both run about $100 a pop)... Cuz the cylinder (the key) works fine, but I figured I ought to probably change out the switch at least.

And since I now have to (I screwed up the switch, but the cylinder is still fine) I know I have to replace at least that. But oh well. I figure the cylinder is fine, just maybe the switch was the problem?

Well Start Cheap as you can. Got no choice but to change the switch now, Remember the procedure and worst comes to worst You end up having get new Cylinder.

I don't know too much about the ignitions, I'd think the switch part (Which is the actual electric part of the ignition) Would be the one that would wear out and mess up Passlock. To me The Cylinder is just a metal Lock cylinder, They'd wear out and your key wouldn't work.

[Colt Hero]

Just wanted to mention here that I've had the SECURITY light problem with my '02 Impala (3.4 111k) off and on for about 1.5 years now. Up until recently, the message would appear, but the car only failed to start once. A month ago, I drove the car 900 miles, spent two weeks, then drove another 900 miles. Amazingly, during this two week period, the SECURITY light came on numerous times and the car refused to start THREE times!!! But here we are a month later, and no Security light, and the car has started every day fine. Was it just coincidence that I experienced this unprecedented high failure rate in this short two-week period, or is this a clue as to what sets this problem off? Could it be the keys dangling from the cylinder for an extended period of time? Maybe it has something to do with temperature - either ambient or the car itself?

Personally, I think it's the ignition swith and/or cylinder - but I haven't replaced it yet. I've read a lot of posts talking about the resistance "fix", but I've also heard of follow-up failures, so I'm skeptical that this really corrects the problem. But I'd really LIKE to fix this because the car cannot be trusted (even though I trusted it enough to drive it 1800 miles recently). The 10-minute wait is bad enough, but my fear is the car eventually won't start AT ALL - and who knows where I'll be when THAT happens...

How many people out there have replaced the ignition switch and/or cylinder and had the problem re-occur??? I haven't seen any statistics on that...

[HeMi101]

90% of the time the whole security light issure is caused by the ignition wearing out. And Technically age and millage doesn't have that much to do with it, its how often the car is turned off and on so it can really happen at any millage.

[ponchonutty]

Well to add another twist to this idea of what is wrong I had a customer call with simular problems. Thinking it was a PK2 failure I set out to bypass the sytsem. Upon further inspection I noticed that not all of the gauges worked properly when it wouldn't start. I then banged on the steering column when cranking but that didn't work. Then I did the same on the dash and it started! Traced it down to a bad circuit inside the cluster. Put a new cluster in and it was fine.

[covertcelery]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Well to add another twist to this idea of what is wrong I had a customer call with simular problems. Thinking it was a PK2 failure I set out to bypass the sytsem. Upon further inspection I noticed that not all of the gauges worked properly when it wouldn't start. I then banged on the steering column when cranking but that didn't work. Then I did the same on the dash and it started! Traced it down to a bad circuit inside the cluster. Put a new cluster in and it was fine.

Trust me, if that was the problem I would have LONG fixed it by now... Ever since it started doing this, I dunno how many times I would just beat the living shi$ out of that car.... and 99% was just for the hell of it.

I think all Chevy's, Fords, you name it - if its a domestic car, its a POS... I know a some of you will disagree, but In the last 11 cars I had, I owned 2 foreign made cars. One Honda, and a Toyota (before they started manufacturing them in the US)... Never had a problem with either one..... And when I say never, I mean I owned both cars for 2 years each. I am a dumba$$ for selling them.

Worst mistakes of my life was to buy a Chevy or a Ford. That same mistake will never ever happen again. I'm gonna fix the problem, but if anything major comes up in either Chevy I own, pitch both of them and buy two Hondas or something.

[ponchonutty]

Well, I'll let you know that I work on ALL makes and models right on brand new vehicles. Many times I wrench on them before the customer ever even drives them. Today, just about all car makers are the same in quality. I've had problems with 2008 Hondas here lately!!!! I will state though that GM has had their fair share of PK2 and PK3 issues!!!!

[HeMi101]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Well to add another twist to this idea of what is wrong I had a customer call with simular problems. Thinking it was a PK2 failure I set out to bypass the sytsem. Upon further inspection I noticed that not all of the gauges worked properly when it wouldn't start. I then banged on the steering column when cranking but that didn't work. Then I did the same on the dash and it started! Traced it down to a bad circuit inside the cluster. Put a new cluster in and it was fine.

Was it an impala? Weird that the cluster would stop it from starting. I had one that had a cluster with a short (cluster wouldn't work) but the car still worked. And doesn't make Much difference, but 00-05 Impala have Passlock II not passkey.

[Iflylow]

My Imp will start and run great even without the cluster installed...