Engine dies once warm

[Black2000Ranger]

Hello, I recently purchased a 1996 Eagle Talon. It has a non-turbo 2.0 DOHC engine in it. My issue is that once the vehicle reaches operating temperature, it shuts down, and refuses to start back up, until cold.

Now before you start jumping to conclusions listen to this. The cat was stolen, so there was a gap in the exhaust. The exhaust is broken about 1 foot behind the engine. The second 02 sensor does not get any kind of exhaust to it.

I have searched and searched. Do I just need to put a cat or a downpipe on it so I can get it to stay running?

I also noticed that neither of the fans ever turn on, and I hot wired the one closer to the battery (which I now believe is the AC fan) and the engine still died once it went up to normal operating temp.

Will the coolant temp sensor cause the car to not start until its cooled back down? Is the coolant temp sensor responsible for turning on the fans? I would imagine that the car would real hot before it would shut down, but the gauge goes to just under the half way mark, which seems like a normal spot.

Seems like I have a desirable amount of spark/fuel/oxygen.

I am stumped. I don't understand why it just shuts off and refuses to cooperate until cold again.

Thank you for reading my long post.
Scott

1996 Eagle Talon 2.0 5 speed non-turbo

[david-b]

Congrats on your purchase. Sounds like you have an idea on what's going on with this car.

The 2nd O2 just verifies that the 1st O2 is working correctly. If the exhaust gas is not getting to it, it will trigger the Check Engine Light, but will not harm or cause any problems. The lack of a full exhaust, being a non-turbo car, will cause it to run poorly due to lack of back-pressure. However, that would not cause the car to die like you're reporting.

The cooling fan will only turn on once the coolant sensor reads a certain temp. If the car is dying before it hits that temp, it wouldn't have had a chance to turn on. The other fan (passenger side) is the AC fan. When you turn on the AC, does that fan turn on at all? Turn it on to full blast while the car is cold and let it run and see if the fan turns on.

The coolant temp sensor (CLT) will cause problems. I would ask if the CEL is on, but I would imagine it is based on the 2nd O2 not really being there. It still wouldn't hurt to get the codes pulled if possible. Try replacing the CLT and see if that works. It's only ~$14, and rather easy to installed. Also, check the wire going to the sensor for breaks or splits.

[Black2000Ranger]

Thanks for the reply Dave.

I replaced the coolant temp sensor today and no luck. Changed my spark plugs and realized that I have a bad valve stem seal on the first cylinder as the spark plug hole was oily. Perhaps this my issue? It makes sense I suppose, maybe as it gets warmer more oil or gasses passes through the head or something? Would this make the car die? Haha, I'm so lost now.

I also think that the battery is the incorrect one for the car, but it does start and run fine, until warm.

Thanks!
Scott

[Black2000Ranger]

Check engine light went off. Car runs great, until it warms up, then starts to idle up and down, then dies, then wont start. I'm starting to think along the lines of the ignition module maybe. Any one have any guesses? I'm changing the valve cover gasket and all of the gaskets around the spark plug holes in the morning.
THANKS!
Scott

[SilvrEclipse]

The 2nd O2 just tells the ECU if the cat is working. The oil in the plug wells are cause by the seals on the VC. These are not the valve stem seals. I would pull the codes if you have access to a scanner or are close enough to drive the car to a parts place that will do it for free. Thats where i would start, it should give you some direction on where to go. What happens if you try and rev the car as its warming up will it still just shut off when it hits that temp or does it sputter and slowly die

[Black2000Ranger]

It reaches operating temp and continues to run great for about 5 minutes then starts to sputter, then dies, wont start until completely cold again. No more check engine light. *stumped*

[Black2000Ranger]

Changed Coil Pack today, same problem. Crazy. Fuel pump sounds kind of funny, probably worth looking at.

[Black2000Ranger]

If you have this problem, change your crank angle sensor.. You will be happy.

[cchoyce]

I am having the same issue. I have a 1996 eclipse that was running fine for a week or so. I was driving it and around the block and it did fine. It did spring a exhaust leak right at the flex tubing after the 90 degree under the engine. Now for some reason I can crank it up just fine. and it will run for about 5 minutes until warm right at under halfway on the temp gauge. and then it sputters out. It will re crank right away and die immediately. Seems to me that if it cranks but dies fuel and fire are good. I do not hear any vacuum leaks but that is my forst thought.. Any ideas?

[cchoyce]

Ohh it also will not run even if you try to give it gas. It just dies no matter what.

[SilvrEclipse]

Originally Posted by cchoyce

I am having the same issue. I have a 1996 eclipse that was running fine for a week or so. I was driving it and around the block and it did fine. It did spring a exhaust leak right at the flex tubing after the 90 degree under the engine. Now for some reason I can crank it up just fine. and it will run for about 5 minutes until warm right at under halfway on the temp gauge. and then it sputters out. It will re crank right away and die immediately. Seems to me that if it cranks but dies fuel and fire are good. I do not hear any vacuum leaks but that is my forst thought.. Any ideas?

Welcome to AF,

Please open a new thread when posting your problem, even though you may have a similar problem to the original topic it will keep the forum more organized.

As for your problem, electrical issue can be difficult to track down. First pull any check engine light codes. These may direct you to your problem. Next I would check the engine sensor to verify if they are good or not. At the minimum: Crank, Cam, Coolant, TPS, MAP.

My roomates car did the exact same thing and it turned out to be the ECU was bad. Might want to try and find one you can borrow or a cheap one would also work.

[Beasthogan]

I have a Eagle Talon built in 1989 and sold as a 1990-1G. I have the same problem as Black2000Ranger with his Talon.
So far I've;
cleaned the throttle body
changed the MAFS, exhaust sensor, coolant sensor and thermostat.
With the key in the on position the dash registers: radiator and water lights.
I checked the top and bottom radiator hoses and sometimes the top is hot and the bottom not so hot. I imagine that the radiator has an amount of crud that needs flushing.
This problem of running fine at cooler temperature then shutting off at running temperature was a gradual thing not all at once.
Before when I could make it to the freeway, the car would run just fine because it would run cooler. I had forgotten that I had removed the thermostat. Once I would get off of the freeway and be on the streets for a few minutes the car would then shut off until the engine cooled off.
The dash never registers that the car is hot, about 1/4 the way only.
Next I will flush the radiator.
Oh and by the way, I had the engine rebuilt at approx. 147,000 miles in 2013 and only put approx. 4000 miles since.

On 7/20/17 I solved this problem. After purchasing a very expensive Camshaft position sensor for approx. $325.00 I was in the process of changing it when I noticed that the factory installed one that was on the car was loose. It has two bolts, one on either side or sensor. Anyway I replaced the old sensor with the new sensor and now the car runs great.