Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1 update

[wallyj34]

Originally Posted by huskerdooo

I would think the misfire would not cause these codes. These codes are for too lean, meaning the 02 sensor sees too much air. I would think a misfire would go the other way.
There are a number of components that can contribute to a lean condition. I have a 99 and I never resolved the issue, even by performing the required bolt fix.
You should have a metal upper intake on your engine, I am not sure I would call it a plenum. Regardless, you should not have the bolt issue on your vehicle. The bolt issue is due to isolators needed to bolt the cheesy plastic intake on the metal lower portion.

Thanks for the response. I will change the spark plug and see if these codes go away by chance and some luck but I doubt it. I recently changed my PCV valve to the metal one that comes in the kit. Should I change it back to the plastic original one? Everybody on here is saying that I wouldn't have to do the bolt change for the 98. I have a big black plastic looking thing on the top of the engin is this the intake maifold or a cover to the maifold I will try to find a pic and post. Thanks again everyone!!!

[philkb]

About 3 weeks ago I performed the work to clean the EGR ports in the manifold and cleared my misfire problem and cleared the codes too. I didn't replace the isolator bolts even though I know I should have. Financial constraints got in the way of that. About a week later the CEL came on and gave the 171-4 codes. One shows as a "Pending" code on my reader and the "Freeze Frame" data makes it look as if this happened at a stop since the RPM was low and the vehicle speed was zero. I haven't yet done anything as I am waiting to see if any other codes come up. Hopefully, the repairs mentioned in this thread will cure the problem but will have to wait until more money is available and perhaps nicer weather. (November weather is now here in Detroit after a long warm spell). The work I did was quite easy and I didn't even remove the cowling. I still wonder if anyone knows if the aftermarket parts are really OK to use for the lower plenum and valve cover replacement. $8.00 or more just for isolator bolts sounds steep to me.

Phil

[JimBo-KW]

Hi. I am having the same problem with my 1999 Winstar and I am going to attempt this repair. I live in southern Ontario and I was wondering where is the best price for the parts needed? Has anyone used these kits that are available online?

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/IntakeManif...ar/1AEVC00013/

Are they any good?

OK. Just got back from pricing the parts at 3 Ford dealers. All of their prices were the same. Two of them never heard of a INTAKE CENTER SECTION but the third did. He called it a spacer # CM*5053*. I had a look at it and as you said OilHammer it has all the seals you need and more. It has the port seals, upper intake gasket and isolater bolts. The only thing I need to get extra is the valve cover itself and the vacuum lne if I think I need it.

So here are the prices:

SPACER (or INTAKE CENTER SECTION) $290.18
VALVE COVER $121.08
VACUUM HOSE $ 38.88
TAXES $ 63.02
TOTAL $513.16


So anyone work at a Ford dealership and get a discount? I wonder what the prices are in the states?

Thanks

[band19]

Found this forum & am thankful for all the great info.
2000 Windstar with light on, Had the tsb done by a ford dealer two years ago to get an inspection sticker in MA. Got the sticker & a week later light came back on & has been on ever since( Emmisions test are every other year & time is up) Just wondering if the tsb work should be redone?
I replace the pvc valve & have tried to check for vac leaks but have found none.Cleaned the maf.
Any advice

[veerg]

I bought the parts from 1aauto.com ,as the link above, for $79+shipping. This was back in March 2007. I have 2000 Windstar with 54K miles. The first time I had CEL was two yrs ago at 40K. I reset them and they came back last year again just before the inspection. I reset the codes then and they did not come back. So I never got around to do the repair. In the last couple of weeks the codes now come back after a couple of days of resetting. It's funny they always come back as soon it is a little cold in NC around Nov. So this weekend I did the repair.

The kit included, bolts with green rubber, all the gaskets, pipes and the valve cover. The gaskets looked exactly like the ones were in before. My old Valve cover had the hole in it at the 5 O'clock position. The new one did not.
Any way, have only driven the van about 100 miles. No CEL yet. The van runs very smooth. Pinging noise we were accostomed to has gone too.
Very pleased with myself doing it and cost only $79. This was a first job of this scope for me. Previous experience was limited to changing Oil and Brake Pads.
As for the cowling, I removed the wipers and the black plastic. Then for the lower metal part, removed all the screws on the top and the one bigger one underneath. I could move it up by an inch but could not figure out how to separate it..must be the wiper motor...Proceeded with the job. When removing the upper plenum, used a 2 by 4 resting on IAC to lift the cowling. It was easy as the screws were out. Also, did not remove the vaccum lines and the connectors at the back. The middle separator could be lifted high enough to get to the 6 ports and clean them easily. I also did not have a torque wrench. Just judged the torque needed when I took the bolts out. I tightened them in the suggested sequence and towards the end was doing it 1/4 turn at a time utill I thought they were a good snug fit. I feel good that I did not under or too much over torque them. First I used gas to clean the 6 ports and was having a hard time. Did not want to use any thing sharp. Went to the local Adv Auto shop and picked up a can of Carb cleaner. Amazingly I was able to clean all in five mins by using just finger pressure on a piece of towel.

Thanks to pcitizen for his procedure which inspired me to do this job.

[tomt62]

I wanted to tackle this myself, but it's now about 20 degrees here in Michigan.

So I took it up to our Local Ford dealer in Southfield, armed with all the knowledge from these posts. Considering that parts themselves are $200 from Ford ... (I know the kits online are $99, but those are not Genuine Ford parts.) Anyway, I expected it would run $700 or more, as others had mentioned. As a pleasant surprise, the total was $537. At this time of the year, I think it was $$$ well spent.

Earlier in the summer the Power Sliding Door motor went, and that was going to be $1000 to fix. Found a used motor for $100, and back in business ...
but it was warm then.

But I just want to say ... this forum is the greatest thing since sliced bread.
It can really save you some serious coin.

[Doug360]

Many thanks to pcitizen the information on his website. Just did the repair and it made it very easy. Only thing I could add is be careful with the cruise control cable. I should have paid more attention to pcitizen's instructions. It looked to me like one of those pop-off connections that snap on to a little metal ball. IT IS NOT!!! Standing on the left of the vehicle push the connector slightly to the opposite side and then pull toward the firewall and you will clear the the metal disk it connects to rather than breaking it like I did. The replacement cable is not cheap. Nonetheless a small price to pay to do this job yourself. My conclusion is if you own a Windstar for any length of time, you have either done this repair, or will be doing it. Thanks again.

[veerg]

Doug360, I agree with you on the Cruize/Throttle cables. One of them with the black connector is real easy to take off and re-attach. The other one is not so easy. My suggestion is to take a flash light or something and see how the cable is attached before you actually take it off. I spent 15 frustrating minutes trying to re-attach it. Finally realized there is a slit in one side of the v-grooved routing wheel and a hole on the other side. You have to thread the hammer shaped end of the cable though the two.
If you are not changing the spark plugs, then the job can be made easier if you take the cowling off half way. By that I mean is to take the wiper arms off, then take the 4 plastic screws off to take the black plastic off. Then take the 8 metal screws off to loosen the metal base. This will allow you to move the cowling about 2 inches which gives you enough room to take the top plenum out. This way you don't have to touch the wiper motor and all and don't have to take off some vacum pipes and connectors at the back. They were hard to get off and almost made me quit. But I was able to leave them in place and was able to lift the middle spacer enough to get to the EGR ports...Good luck to all.

[digitaltexan2u]

I just got these two codes on my '01 Windstar Limited. I'm going to try my luck at the dealer tomorrow. If that doesn't go well...is there anyone in northeast Ohio that's done this? Thanks!!

[veerg]

It will be interesting to see what the dealers are quoting on this job these days. Please let us know. Hope some one will answer your question about North East Ohio.

[flewellen1]

I got a quote several days ago in Wisconsin, the total cost would run me. . . . . . . $895. I think I will tackle this myself(or attempt to anyhow). Wish me luck.

[gasman1075]

Hey Guys
Just found this sight this weekend.
I've been batteling this 171/174 code for nearly 3 years now with my 2000 Windstar and I'm at me wits end and ready to dump this van for a Honda or Toyota.
The intale was originally taken care of under the vans extender warrenty when I first bought it in 03.
Then after that I occasionally got the CEL with the 171/174 code,I would just disconnect the battery and then let the car relearn it's adaptive strategy.
Well last January the metal heater line under the intake let loose,so in doing that repair the intake got replaced again and shortly after the CEL ame on again,scanned and of course got the 171/174.
Van ran fine so I disconnected the battery and reset the light.
Well I had to get the car inspected so I once again reset the light ran it's adaptive strategy process drove the car for 50 miles and right into the inspection bay.The car passed NYS emmissions inspection.The next day the light was back on.
But now the car was running like crap,feeling like it's going to stall at lights and surging when in park and at idle.
Since I'm short on time I dropped the car at my local wrench.
He determined the intake was again leaking.OK so he replaced it at a reduced price since he did it in January.
Next day the damn light is back on,back to the shop,yeah 171/174 is back.
Once again he goes through all the checks and the only thing he can find is a little excessive leakage during a smoke test at the EGR,so he replaces it at no charge until we know if it's the cause and if it works then I only pay for the part no labor.
Well not 24 hours and 25 miles go by and it's back.
So now I have a few hours to play.
I can't find any vaccum leaks so I pull the MAF and clean it,replace the air filter and fuel filter.While doing all this the battery is disconnected.
Button everything up hook up battery and run the 2 minutes in park the 2 minutes in drive then 2 minutes in drive with all accessories on to let the car relearn it codes.The take the car for a nice easy 5 to 10 mile drive not exceeding 45 mph.
Well the car runs great but after less then 24 hours and approx 20 miles the damn CEL light is back on,I cannot scan it at the moment but I can bet it's 171/174.
Any suggestions,where do I go,Im so sick and tired of this iece of trash in my driveway but my wife loves it and I can't afford new right now.
I,ve been a dedicated Ford man for many years now But I'm ready to jump ship right now.
Pete

[northern piper]

just did this repair last night. Total took 2.5 hours. I'd completely suggest removing the cowl. Way easier. Second, I'd suggest removing the firewall side vacuum, electrical lines after removing the plenum. Easier to see what you are doing for sure. Lastly, I took an empty egg carton bottom, numbered it 1 - 12 and used that to hold the plenum bolts. The 13th, 14th I just set beside but it really helped keeping them straight for reassembly. As I've said in other posts about this same procedure, the isolator bolts and plenum cover all get torqued to 89 in-lbs. I did them in steps of finger tight, 50 in-lbs, then 89. No broken parts

[mundy5]

Thank you for all your helpful posts, especially to pcitizen for your helpful website. I have a 2003 LX model and I had a question. Since it's a new model, I know I won't have to replace the valve cover. But my question is, are the isolator bolts on my car still the older version and therefore in need of repair to the newer green colored version? Most of the posts were with the 99-01 range so I just wanted to double check before I bought the parts. Thanks a bunch.

[gasman1075]

I've got a copy of the Ford TSB it is article #03-16-1 and it covers 1999-2003 Windstars with the 3.8 engine.
If your one of the lucky one like I was in the beginning to have an extended powertrain warranty of 6 years 75000 miles then the dealer will do it under warranty.
Also if you don't have the light and it's showing no symptoms then leave it alone.Like the old saying goes ,If it ain't broke then don't fix it!