2002 Lincoln ls Has no heat

[danielsatur]

I would consider a new thermostat housing kit, DCCV, and new coolant.

The thermostat housing, seal, thermostat, and DCCV will go bad in time.

[blklink]

Alright well I took some advise about cleaning out the dact (dccv) or what not but the problem I'm having is finding it. You said it will be one bolt holding it on. The only thing that I see is a box with half and half black/silver with 6 lines coming from it. 4 on the left side 2 on the right is that the dccv. I still have no heat and its killing me to ride down the road to the store in it. Also would the cabin air filter have anything to do with it if its dirty? Thanks.

[shorod]

That sounds like the DCCV. It will be mounted by the one bolt down near the front crossmember to the passenger side of the radiator, the anti-sway bar runs right by it. You're likely going to need to drain the radiator from underneath, disconnect the hoses from above, remove the one bolt from underneath, and I think I snaked it out from underneath as well. I don't recall if I also removed the wheel well liner.

The DATC is the control unit in the dash.

If you are getting good air flow in the cabin the problem will not be related to the cabin air filter, but if you've never changed it it no doubt is due.

-Rod

[blklink]

Alright its 3 o'clock in the morning and at 2 o'clock I just got finished reinstalling the dccv. I took it out all the hoses I detached and did as lovemyls said I sprayed wd40 into all the piping. Let it sit for a while to dry and sprayed it again with wd40 and drained the remaining wd40 out and let it sit up till dry. I reinstalled the dccv, and the same thing is happening. Should it work right away or should I give it time to loosen back up? But as of right now I am sitting in my car and the heat is warm doing okay sitting at idle but when I go half a mile it turns to cold again. Cabin air filter is little dusty. All lines have been flushed, I have bled the heater bleed valve, and I have bled the coolant line. My temp needle is at half mark as usual no up or downs its steady. Any help or add ons? Thanks for the tips!!

[blklink]

I was reading past threads but I'm using my phone so it will only let me go back so far. My question is at the top of MY showing threads starts talking about pulling codes. How would I go about pulling codes for my 2000 lincoln ls v6 3.0. As again this is the only problem I have had since new and it has roughly 214800 miles on it. Still going up cause its a daily driver and its freezing cold outside so I am determined to get this heat fixed. Actually this is my only transportation right now cause of my truck being wrecked. Have 2 kids 1 and 3 and do not want to put them in the car without the heat. How do I get codes or what do I have to do to get them.? It is all power, windows seats mirrors sunroof heated seats and power seats. Thanks again

[blklink]

Sorry for all the post. I have searched all through the net but I have found the way to pull codes from the dact.

To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and PANEL buttons simultaneously, followed by pressing the AUTO button within two seconds.

The DATC module will report all continuous DTCs to the vacuum fluorescent (VF) display.

The DATC module will not carry out a self-test; it will only display continuous faults codes which are stored in memory.

All VF display segments will light if no faults are detected.

Individual continuous DTCs will be reported with the °C symbol lit.

DTCs shall be reported as a four-digit DTC (less the alpha character).

Pressing the front defrost button will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and clear all continuous DTCs from DATC module memory.

Pressing any other button (other than DEFROST) will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and maintain all continuous DTCs in DATC module memory.

Upon exit from the retrieve continuous DTCs mode the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.





Now my question is do I do this in the off position or on position (key wise)? If on I have tried the steps but I got nothing at all just wondering if I did the steps right. Do I turn the key to on position or with the car running? Thanks for the help. In note I did this with the car off key in on position. And it didn't do anything at all

[blklink]

Alright so go buy a brand new DCCV and guess what the problem was? Yep the DCCV thanks for everybodys help on that situation. Rod and lovemyls thanks.

[02_lc_on_20]

hi, new to the site. ok so i have a 02 ls im the second owner and i have not had heat from the time i first drove it well a little heat when im driven but no heat only cold air when im stoped. it has dual clim but all vents blow the same so i dont think that has a problem but it gets better the other night i pull into work and i get a ding ding ding and its says my car is over heating well i get out and its not boiling or nothing. so ive check the fluid its good and i gave the first owner a call and he said that it got hot on him one time but thats all and he had it checked and no prblems so what do you all think is going on?????

[blklink]

You will have to pin point that over heating. If you fluid level has not change you lincoln is not losing coolant. Means you would have air in your coolant lines or you have a bad water pump. There are 2 bleeder valves on the coolant lines depending which lincoln you have. Since yours is a 02 it still has the hydro fan, do you have the v8 or v6? If you have the v6 there is a bleeder valve at the front of the motor center of it also, back and under the intake tubing. Fill the coolant high as you can get it with the bleeder valve open as you fill the coolant box coolant will start coming out of the bleeder valve when it does that means that it is full. Close the valve back and fill the coolant box to its highest level. Alright now make sure that's the problem before dumping money into this car trust me its a expensive car. Well now for the heat it could be your DCCV, heater core, or you also have air in the heater lines. Which there is a bleeder line for that also. Its located near the coolant box. To bleed that you will need to start your car and turn your heater to 75 degrees wide open fan on high. As doing that need to open your heater bleed valve, after opening that you will need a partner or you could use the throttle cable. Hold the throttle at least 2500 RPM's and as water starts a steady stream of coolant out of it, you have cleared the air. Try these things first before dumping money.

[02_lc_on_20]

srry bout not listing that its a v8. ok so u think the problem is air well can you tell me why you think air is in my lines and how it could of got there why i ask is ive been driven the car for like 2 weeks and no trouble with over heating then now it happen again today when i drove it into town so that the second time and dont you think if there was air in the line it would happen more, like i drove it 2 hr the other day and no problems at all the heat will blow warm when im driven and the harder i drive warmer it gets i think it is the water pump but idk ill do the air check to see if it help when i get off work thanks

[danielsatur]

The electronic dual climate control valve (DCCV ) gets stickey, it's probably time for a new one.Try doing a coolant bleed procedure on the Heater core.

[02_lc_on_20]

so i took a good look at the car today because the car overheated 2 times last night but no real signs car ran ok got out check under the hood no sound of overheating i could evan grab the hoses and they was hot but not overheating hot so do you all think it might be a gauge problem or somthing along that line also i check everything today antifreeze was all good right at the line no leaks at all and the water pump is tight not all loose so i dont think theres a problem there the heater core flows fine then i couldnt do any more test outside so i got in and checked for codes and i only got 1 it was 24 28 can you help me find out what that is thanks

[danielsatur]

Use a hand held infrared thermometer, to check heat temps on coolant reservior tank, radiator, bank1, bank2, and both catalytic converters.

Any air pockets can give a false indication on temp guage, do a proper coolant bleed procedure.

[shorod]

Did you get a powertrain diagnostic code of P2428 or is that a code you pulled from the DATC? Were you grabbing heater hoses or radiator hoses?

-Rod

[02_lc_on_20]

ok if i get some time today i will check for air and i got that off the datc it was 24 28....also i was grabbin the 2 big radiator hoses and there was no way that they was 290 plus the gauge was in the red and it said that engine temp was to hot and to slow down but i was in my work parkin lot when it said that im not for sure whats going on but i think that the heater problem is to do with the dccv or maybe a door under the dash and the overheating is the gauge but i will try what ever it takes to get it fix so if you think you can help then im ready thanks again