Shocks and struts replacement on 2003 Windstar LX

[searcherrr]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

I'm not saying I would not jack up both sides ... just not by jacking in the middle. I'm apprehensive of bending, and slipping on the jack. Maybe I'm just a bit old-maid.

But me and my car are both straight... nothing broken and looking good!

I like that. I hear you 12Ounce. I was worried about "bowing" the subframe in the middle too, but I did it tonight very slowly and it went ok. I positioned the jack face on either side of the front subframe member and it sits in it like its a valley because of how the metal is shaped on the van.

So, front end is up, wheels are off, cowl off etc.. I've removed quite a bit of the right front nuts and the stabilizer link, which was pretty tore up.

I'm having trouble figuring out how to get the lower control arm ball joint off of the knuckle. I know there's a removal fork I can rent, but ya'll said I didn't need special tools to do all this.... so I was wondering if there is a way to get the control arm off the knuckle with some technique I'm not seeing.

I think the inner tie rod looks too difficult to do. I'm probably gonna let a shop do it unless its easier than I think?

[12Ounce]

I having a bit of trouble understanding the problem... or remembering exactly the details. Have you fully withdrawn all the bolts? There may be a split journal that the tip of a screwdriver, driven in a bit, would help....?

If there are a number of miles on this vehicle, I would ask you to consider replacing the whole steering rack. It is worn internally, you can be sure ... and with a remanufactured rack you get a good tight steering .... all new boots and seals ... and new inner tie ends.

I never rebuild/replace inner tie ends anymore.

[searcherrr]

Yes, not knowing the terminology... a split journal is where this lower control arm ball joint sits... I've got all the bolts out... I just didn't think me angling a screwdriver in there to slightly spread the hub's metal would actually work... i mean its is quite BEASTY THICK METAL.

SO THATS IT, NO OTHER DIY KNOWN METHOD TO GET THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT BOLT OUT OF THE HUB'S SPLIT JOURNAL??

I guess I should rent a ball joint separator tool if I want this to go quick. Was trying to avoid more money and time.

[scubacat]

I'm not sure you'll have enough room to use the separator tool. Mine was pretty well stuck in there at first. How did I get it out? First spray some penetrating oil on the top of the ball joint. Next, go to home depot, buy a 10' piece of steel pipe, and have them cut it into 6' and 4' seconds for you (so you'll have 2 different size "tools"). Then, position that 6' pipe over the control arm and under the subframe, and push down. It'll come right out. I tried a 30" wrecker bar first, but it just bent. (I guess I wrecked the wrecker bar...)

Need to get off the axle nut but it's on REALLY tight? Grab your 2' breaker bar, slide that steel pipe right over it, and presto... you now have a 4' or 6' breaker bar. Got a lug nut really stuck on? Same drill... 19" socket, breaker bar, steel pipe over it.. cranks right off, even one-handed.

[olopezm]

If you're doing new control arms, I'm pretty sure you could use a hammer to break the rust loose and insert a long screwdriver. If you're reusing them, then a separator is needed to avoid any damage.

As for the inner tie rods, is not hard at all if you have the right tool. It's called "inner tie rod tool" and looks like a long socket. MAKE SURE TO PUT THREADLOCKER AND THE COTTER PIN for the new inner tie rods.

Check the tool here

Oscar.

[scubacat]

The ford service manual actually says specifically to pry the ball joint out like I mentioned (although they say with a "pry bar", but that'll never be strong enough at this point in time).

[searcherrr]

Originally Posted by scubacat

I'm not sure you'll have enough room to use the separator tool. Mine was pretty well stuck in there at first. How did I get it out? First spray some penetrating oil on the top of the ball joint. Next, go to home depot, buy a 10' piece of steel pipe, and have them cut it into 6' and 4' seconds for you (so you'll have 2 different size "tools"). Then, position that 6' pipe over the control arm and under the subframe, and push down. It'll come right out. I tried a 30" wrecker bar first, but it just bent. (I guess I wrecked the wrecker bar...)

LOL - You wrecked the wrecker bar. LOL I like that.

Well, I'll do the oil. I dunno why I didn't use oil to loosen stuff over so many years of work, but I have some Aero Kroil and I love the stuff... has worked great when I have used it before.

Pipe over the control arm and UNDER the subframe??? Do you mean under the knuckle??? I guess I'm not seeing how a 6' piece of pipe would reach to go under the subframe?

I'm thinking I'm going to hammer the ball joint left and right until it loosens up enough to come out.

This van has 135k... but I have to say..I cannot believe how well preserved this van really is. It looks like it has only EVER contacted pavement roads. The original PAINT is still even on the base of the wheel STUDS!! The cowl had never been removed before (I broke a piece of foam that was sealing it on driver side). I vacuumed all of it out and found out where the cabin air filter is too.

Anyway, I'm dead tired tonight and the van is just sitting right now. I didn't have it in me tonight to continue the struggle. Until tomorrow.

Oh and the control arms I'm putting on are new. I will never again go through pressing out and pressing in ball joint unless I have some very expensive automated tool to do it.

[searcherrr]

Van is still up on jacks. I wound up getting kidney stones and of course I couldn't finish it up. So, the ball joints are still stuck in the knuckle.

I was wondering too how to get the lower control arm bolts out of the control arms... I guess I just need to jack the arm up a hair to give the bolt some lack of tension and knock'm out?

[searcherrr]

Losing my steam.

I have all parts off of the passenger side, but I cannot get the ball joint free from the knuckle and now I have all the parts off and disconnected so there isn't anything to brace against. I'm thinking about putting it all back together and taking it to the shop.

Seems to me I should've just gotten the ball joint knuckle removal tool.

scubacat - I have reread your instructions, a couple posts back, several times and are you talking about a 10 FOOT piece of steel pipe? ... cut into a 6 FOOT and a 4 FOOT section? so I'd be wedging the pipe against the sub-frame pushing down on the control arm till the ball joint falls out of the knuckle??? is that right?? Is this ok to do, like it won't bend/deform anything else that's attached to the knuckle?

I have the control arm loose from the subframe attachment points, but the ball joint attached at the knuckle just spins... I have even backed the bolt out a few turns, the bolt that secures the knuckle "journals" (is that what they are called?) together to clamp the ball joint in place... but the ball joint just spins..... I did have some "play" in it going up and down a bit, but now I realize that could just be play in the ball joint itself.

Do I need to reattach all the linkage etc.. strut etc.. in order to get the control arm ball joint off of the knuckle?

I'm so whipped guys. I fought with it all Sunday night and its just in the same place it was.

[northern piper]

what you need to do is make sure the LCA is attached at the frame. Put a long pry bar between the ball joint and where it attaches. Push down with the pry bar using the frame area as an anchor point for the end of the pry bar (the opposite end you're holding). Before all of this, liberally soak the area with PB blaster or aerokroil penetrant. It will come out, often with a big "pop" . These are suspension components designed to take big loads at highway speeds. Don't be scared to use some ummph, just be careful.

[scubacat]

Originally Posted by searcherrr

I have the control arm loose from the subframe attachment points, but the ball joint attached at the knuckle just spins... I have even backed the bolt out a few turns, the bolt that secures the knuckle "journals" (is that what they are called?) together to clamp the ball joint in place...

Did you not remove the pinch bolt?? That bolt goes through a 'keyway' in the ball joint stud that locks it in place. You must remove that bolt!

And yes, reattach the two bushings to the subframe and then use that leverage to pry out the ball joint. Push down on the angled arm (the one that goes to the front corner bushing). In my case, even my biggest pry bar wasn't strong enough to break it loose, hence the section of steel pipe.

[northern piper]

about 8 months ago I had to work on an LCA and wanted "the right tool" so I went and bought a 48 inch long pinch bar like this one..http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/to...0-16-pinch-bar

best investment I've made in ages. Get yourself one of these bad boys, don't cheap out and find a junky one from HF (they're waaay too soft). A "real" pry bar will make all the diff in the world.

[scubacat]

I still prefer my steel pipe. For that same $20 you get a nice 10' section to cut up and it also doubles as a breaker bar extension.

[northern piper]

true for sure. The think I most like about the bar I bought (aside from it's brute strength and resistance to bending) is that the pointed end is really helpful for getting various "holed" parts to line up. Push that end thru and any bolt that you need to wiggle into place just slips in. Again, not something you think about doing often but when you've got the right tool it just makes everything so much easier.

[12Ounce]

You need more beer!

It helps with controlling stress and kidney stones.