Codes 171 & 174 TSB # 03-16-1 update - Page 3

DRW1000 · 02-25-2005, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

I don't remember "blue". And I remember rubber o-rings...not exactly circular... but with "ribs", not "texture".
But they may have been up-graded since I bought mine.

"Ribs" does sound like a better description. They are thicker than I would have expected too.

pcitizen · 02-25-2005, 07:19 PM

The seals are baby blue with a very slight ribbing that is molded perpendicular to the seal's length. The aren't round and are nothing like an o-ring or gasket.

DRW1000 · 03-21-2005, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcitizen

The seals are baby blue with a very slight ribbing that is molded perpendicular to the seal's length. The aren't round and are nothing like an o-ring or gasket.

Wow this thread will never end.........

Okay I bought the seals and the bolts (I have had the problem about 6 months now) and I am waiting for a nice day. This weekend it should be about 10 degress C in Toronto so I am starting to get prepared. I was reading the excellent post that someone did with the whole step by step procedure.

My question though:

From reading the step by step it seems like one really does need to remove the cowling to get the upper off. I think the author stated something like the upper intake is 1/2 inch too high or the cowling is 1/2 inch too low.

Does the cowling need to be removed? Should it be removed? Anyone who has done this repair should have a valuable opinion. I am also planning on replacing the spark plugs. Are there any benefits using the Motorcraft over the autolites?

Thanks

pcitizen · 03-21-2005, 06:48 PM

After doing the job and posting the web site to which you reference I recommend (now) removing the cowling. Though I didn't do this myself, I believe it would have made for a single person job.

BTW: Thanks for the comps.

PCitizen

DRW1000 · 03-21-2005, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcitizen

After doing the job and posting the web site to which you reference I recommend (now) removing the cowling. Though I didn't do this myself, I believe it would have made for a single person job.

BTW: Thanks for the comps.

PCitizen

Ah the author.......................

I did not offer enough compliments. It is fantastic, well written and very informative. I wish you wrote repair manuals for a living.

I feel like I have practically done the work without yet turning a wrench.

12Ounce · 03-21-2005, 07:58 PM

When you remove the cowling (the second time), it will take you about 15 minutes MAX! The first time, you're investing a bit more time for the learning process.

I wouldn't even consider filling the brake reservoir without removing the cowling.

wiswind · 03-21-2005, 09:18 PM

DRW1000, mentioned Motorcraft or Autolite spark plugs, I have not used the Autolite.....so I cannot comment. The only thing that I will comment is to make sure that you get the DOUBLE PLATINUM plugs, which both Motorcraft and Autolite offer....so I would guess you would be fine with either one (Both used to be made by the same company).

Don't do this, the GROUND prong will wear on one side of the motor...

Do this, and they will be good for another 100K miles.

This thread may be long, but is one of the most important on the Windstar forum.....for owners of '99 and newer.
Great information....and pics on that link.

DRW1000 · 03-22-2005, 06:57 PM

Well we may as well have this thread complete if it is going to be around forever.

Does anyone know the torque for the following:

1)Spark Plugs - (7-15 Ft-lbs)
2)Isolator bolts - (89 in-lbs)
3)the bolts holding the two alves of the upper intake together - (89 in-lbs)

The above are what I think my Haynes suggests. Does anyone agree or disagree or has a different sources?

Thanks.

pcitizen · 03-22-2005, 07:27 PM

About those torque specs... the ones for the isolator bolts and intake sound right on. As for the spark plugs... well... I've been working on cars since 1973. I have never torqued them with a torque wrench. Just made them good n snug. Over all this time, I've only had one unscrew itself. Agreed... torquing to specs is the best practice. The measurement you provided seems about right.

BTW: 89 in. lbs. is about 7 ft lbs. Only difference between the two (in. to ft.) is precision.

PCitizen

DRW1000 · 03-22-2005, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcitizen

About those torque specs... the ones for the isolator bolts and intake sound right on. As for the spark plugs... well... I've been working on cars since 1973. I have never torqued them with a torque wrench. Just made them good n snug. Over all this time, I've only had one unscrew itself. Agreed... torquing to specs is the best practice. The measurement you provided seems about right.

BTW: 89 in. lbs. is about 7 ft lbs. Only difference between the two (in. to ft.) is precision.

PCitizen

I guess I am not quite as old (lol) but I have been working on cars since about 1978 and I never used a torque wrench on spark plugs either. I just figured it was time I started. I never used to use a torque wrench on wheels either but I have since seen the light.

Thanks for the reply

pcitizen · 03-22-2005, 07:44 PM

Wheels. Yes... it's a must there or distortion of the disks will occur. Old... perhaps in reference to the young and young in reference to the older.

pupuputz · 03-22-2005, 07:48 PM

I did this TSB today and it took me about 4 hours. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be. I would like to thank pcitizen for all his efforts, they really helped out. If you weren't on the other side of the country I'd buy you a beer. My Windstar has 100,000kms and I didn't have any fault codes coming up but I did have the knocking sound. It would quiten somewhat when I pressed on the intake manifold. When I was at the Ford dealership getting the parts, they said they had done 3 with the same problem that day! I didn't replace my upper intake halves seal. The Ford dealer said I could probably get away without replacing it if my old one looked okay. Does anyone know why you have to replace the valve cover? Can you get away without replacing it? They didn't have one in stock so I haven't replaced it yet. From what I understand, oil will get into the intake manifold by the small hole in the valve cover. The oil then wrecks the isolator bolts. Will the new isolator bolts be able to withstand oil? If so, I should be able to keep my original valve cover. I'm thinking that Ford may have included the valve cover to be over precautious. Please feel free to put in your two bits because I have limited knowledge about this stuff. I would rather not spend the $130 that they quoted me for one. BTW my isolator bolts, port seals, and vacuum line cost $113 CDN.

wiswind · 03-22-2005, 08:03 PM

If your windstar is a '99 or 00, you may want to get the valve cover.... If it is newer than that.....you already have the improved type.
The main concern that I would have with excessive oil being drawn in.....is carbon build-up in the cylinders.....

You might try shopping around by checking dealerships through www.parts.com
You will need to find a dealership that will ship to Canada. Other choice might be to see if you can get one through a junk yard.

DRW1000 · 03-23-2005, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcitizen

Wheels. Yes... it's a must there or distortion of the disks will occur. Old... perhaps in reference to the young and young in reference to the older.

PCitizen................I didn't mean to call you old...............Just a couple of years on me.

Sorry if it may have offended you.

DRW1000 · 03-23-2005, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pupuputz

I did this TSB today and it took me about 4 hours. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be. I would like to thank pcitizen for all his efforts, they really helped out. If you weren't on the other side of the country I'd buy you a beer. My Windstar has 100,000kms and I didn't have any fault codes coming up but I did have the knocking sound. It would quiten somewhat when I pressed on the intake manifold. When I was at the Ford dealership getting the parts, they said they had done 3 with the same problem that day! I didn't replace my upper intake halves seal. The Ford dealer said I could probably get away without replacing it if my old one looked okay. Does anyone know why you have to replace the valve cover? Can you get away without replacing it? They didn't have one in stock so I haven't replaced it yet. From what I understand, oil will get into the intake manifold by the small hole in the valve cover. The oil then wrecks the isolator bolts. Will the new isolator bolts be able to withstand oil? If so, I should be able to keep my original valve cover. I'm thinking that Ford may have included the valve cover to be over precautious. Please feel free to put in your two bits because I have limited knowledge about this stuff. I would rather not spend the $130 that they quoted me for one. BTW my isolator bolts, port seals, and vacuum line cost $113 CDN.

Yeah I had the same reservation in regards to the $130 CDN they quoted me. I have read people purchasing it for under $50 US. Even with the exchange Ford of Canada is charging too much.

I seriously doubt that the hole makes that much of a difference (IMHO). I think it is just a great way to sell more parts for what can only be described as a design defect. I was thinking of simply blocking the hole with a nut, bolt, cotter pin (or similar guarantee locking device) and a piece of gasket material. I could probably do this for about $1.00. I can do this anytime so for now just the bolts, seals, and plugs.

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD