Ignition Switch replacement procedure

[mallenfam]

Finally got around to replacing the ignition switch harness and YES! All problems related were solved. The tranny is once again a 4-speed automatic instead of 2-speed manual in limp mode, the key tumbler functions properly to release the key, and SES light is off.

Comments:

Removal of the lower access panels, including the parking brake cable, helps for accessing the air bag connector and the harness connector.

A 5/32" soccket worked fine for the Torx E6 screw heads, but I had to buy a Torx E socket set anyway for the E4 screws (no E3 needed). Don't expect to find it at the autoparts store. I found it at ToolKing. I think that a 3 mm or 1/8" socket will work for the E4, but I didn't have and couldn't find any.

I slotted the upper cover with a dremel to get it past the key switch as described - it won't show because the lower cover hides it.

Make sure that you dig deep enough in the thread (post #19 by recurve) to find the pointer on how to get the small white connector off by sticking a tiny screwdriver in to release the small white tang (take a look at the one on the new harness).

Post #24 by ddub points out that the white (tumbler solonoid?) needs to mount back on top of the black block at the lower right fastener for proper operation.

The harness connector to the main block is driven in and out entirely by the 9/32 screw. It takes about 12 full revolutions before it is free. The turn signal harness connectors remain attached above and below the switch ignition harness connector and must then be swapped on to the new ignition harness connector in the proper orientation.

[heydawgg]

Greetings!

I just finished installing a new Ignition Switch as per the procedures posted by Sfrid073.

All of the intermittent electrical issues (ABS, Windows, Climate Controls, Check Engine lights, etc) went away once I replaced that Switch/harness.....beautiful posting by Sfrid073!

The only problem I've encountered, is that now I can't get the key out of the lock cylinder (tumbler) - I've tried disconnecting the battery (twice), and it still will not come out no matter how many times you turn (clockwise & counter clockwise).

I must have not read a step properly - has anyone encountered this when replacing their ignition starter switch, and if so how did you fix the problem??

Prior to my replacing the switch, the key was working fine in the tumbler.

Any help would be fantastic!!

Thanks,

heydawgg (Rob)

[mallenfam]

Rob - All I can think of is that the tumbler solonoid isn't aligned (has some kinf of plunger, perhaps), which means disassembling the column covers again. It may not be it, but good luck! See comment I previously posted:

Post #24 by ddub points out that the white (tumbler solonoid?) needs to mount back on top of the black block at the lower right fastener for proper operation.

[heydawgg]

Thanks for the info mallenfam, I removed the solenoid module completely (not really needed), and it fixed the key stuck issue. There is a danger that someone could lock your steering wheel while you drive if they turn the key, but that would be a very low chance (I drive the truck maybe once a week), and the kids are strapped in their carseats in the back.

Thanks for your post!

Rob

[wingzero90302]

Could you do the same thing for a '85

[heydawgg]

Can't see why not - I believe the solenoids are all mounted pretty much in the same place - there was one torx screw that I had to remove to get the thing out (plus a clip which you push in with a small screwdriver on the top portion of the solenoid housing - which is white in my case with my '97 Blazer). Just remember you still need to replace the torx screw as it holds the igntion starter switch (black box) in place near the key tumbler.

Good Luck!

heydawgg (Rob)

[deltaf508]

We have a 1997 Jimmy and I'm wondering if our Jimmy is having this problem. At first I thought it was a battery drain/electrical issue since this almost happens at random, but after looking on the net I'm seeing an eery similarity to what ours is doing. Basically what is happening is sometime (at random) our Jimmy will decide not to start (just cranks and cranks). Sometimes it will start and sometimes it won't. Althought I can usually get it to happen a) right after we've driven it for 5-10 mins. or b) if it try turning it on/off/on/off/ (usually once in a half dozen or so times it won't start). Usually if I decide to let it crank long enough it will eventually decide to fire. I can always tell when it's going to work becuase while it is cranking not all the lights are lit up on the dash, right when it's about to fire a few more lights come on and I here the key buzz (buzz/ding the car makes when your key is in the ignition and turned on).

I have replaced the alternator and battery in the last month so I know these are good my only other thought it that it could be the starter?? Funny thing is a couple of times that this has happened I've thought it was the battery and I've tried to jump it and it always seems to fire when I jump. Any explanations for that one?

I'm really at a loss on this one. Hoping someone out there can lend me some advice as to what is going on. How much is an ignition switch anyway?

Thanks in Advance,

Gary

[heydawgg]

Hi Deltaf508,

Before I do anything, I would replace that Ignition Switch - in my case it was like I had gremlins in my wiring. Some days things would work (sort of), other days....nothing. Changing out the Ignition Switch would be the very first thing I would do in your case for sure - that would remove the gremlins and would then help you narrow any other issues down. The Ignition Switch (in Canada) costed me $117.00 (ACDELCO OEM Part), and the only thing I had to buy was a proper set of torx screwdrivers ($20). So the entire cost not including my time (4 hours as this was a new procedure for me...I took it slow) was $137 Canadian....pretty cheap if you compared this to what a shop would charge you. Good Luck!

[deltaf508]

heydawgg, thanks for your input I was afraid of that. Looks like I'll be diving into that this week.

Just to make sure I'm on the right track this is the part I should be looking at right?

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QACD1498C.html

Not that I'll be buying from here, but I just want to make sure I'm looking at the right part first.

Thanks Again,

Gary

[heydawgg]

Hi deltaf508,

Yes that's the correct part re: Ignition Starter Switch - looks identical to the one I replaced myself.

Good Luck!

Heydawgg

[deltaf508]

Thanks, Replaced the switch Sunday and so far everything is working perfect. Hopefully it will take care of it. Thanks for the help!

Take Care,

Gary

[heydawgg]

Glad it worked Gary, my '97 seems to be running way better now as well, so far no issues.

Cheers!
Heydawgg (Rob)

[DelawareRebel]

Sup,
I am having all the problems stated above and more with my '95 blazer. First it wants to start when it feels like it. I can try to crank it and it keeps trying to turn over, eventually... letting it crank enough it will turn over. I was wondering before I tear it apart if it is my ignition switch?!?
I am also having problems with my 4-wheel drive, Its and electric shift, I can git it to shift from 2HI, to 4LO but occasionally it will shift into 4HI. What's the deal?

-DelawareRebel

[heydawgg]

Hi Delawarerebel,

You know, I think the Ignition Starter Switch issue is specifically related to the 1997 Blazer. I'm not 100% sure it would be applicable to your '95 issues, although they sound somewhat similar.

Have you tried the forum search function using key words like "hard to start 1995 Blazer", or "starting problems"...etc, etc. keep trying different combinations....you should find some that are applicable.
Or another thing you could do is try asking one of the online mechanics....they probably have WAY more expertise and knowledge on your issues (specifically to your '95 Blazer). I'm a weekend warrior myself, and I found this forum to be very helpful with my issues - all problems resolved so far!

Good luck!

heydawgg

[jscotttalbert]

hi, i'm new here. found this thread, as well as this one: http://www.automotiveforums.com/t67530.html

our blazer died at a stop light one day; firestone gave us a $3,700 estimate including fuel injector/"spiders?", fuel pump (which we've replaced once or twice), etc.

i replaced the fuel filter and changed plugs, wires, distributor. last night it again died at light. then died while moving. notice various dash lights, including air bag light, which seems weird. car will re-start, though it seems a bit sluggish.

a neighbor mentioned ignition coil/ignition module. but these threads seem to point to the ignition switch under similarly-described problems. i don't know enough to know what the ignition coil v. module v. switch does, let alone what the symptoms would be if each of the three is bad. is the consensus to start with the ignition switch???

the only other description i can give that might help is that at a light it sometimes acts like it wants to cut off, but i can keep one foot on the brake and one on the gas and the extra juice seems to help.

i should note that it took about 6 or 7 hours to change the fuel filter and plugs, wires, distributor... so i'm no mechanic. if the ignition switch is recommended, can i wing it based on these directions... or should a guy like me take it somewhere????

thanks for providing these informational forums......
scott